ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 23, 2015 Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 I've never used bondo before, and am going to do some tests on my son's Halloween costume. Is there a particular kind I should get? I see a few different brands and options. Thanks! I personally would stay away from bondo. What did you use to assemble your armor with Bryan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryanmc[501st] Posted October 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 I haven't yet glued anything, but plan to use the Devcon as you recommend. But what will you be using to fill seams? I'm taking a quick break from my TFA set to work on my son's 48" TFA suit from the toy. I want to fill the screw holes on it and figured I'd use bondo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 23, 2015 Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 I used the Devcon to fill in gaps I would have used bondo then used filler to take care of the smaller divots. When I get home I'll post a pic of the yoke for example to illustrate how I built up the top edge with the Devcon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryanmc[501st] Posted October 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 (edited) And you can sand the Devcon for a seamless look? I thought it dried too hard for that. What filler for the divots? Thanks for the help! Edited October 23, 2015 by Bryanmc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 23, 2015 Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 And you can sand the Devcon for a seamless look? I thought it dried too hard for that. What filler for the divots? Thanks for the help! Yep, tough and pliable as the ABS itself, ok maybe a little tougher. As you'll soon find out this stuff melts the plastic a bit (like any other plastic welders) which creates a very strong bond. I applied it in flexible areas and it shows no sins of splitting or cracking. Look at some of my build pics, especially the accuracy upgrades, you'll see it being used as a filler. My yoke (upper shoulder) was so sharp after sanding I nearly cut myself, not exaggerating either. I had to go back and sand the point off. I use PPG spot putty for the holes, divots. I also used the Poly-flex for the same but don't like as much because you have to use a hardener. The spot putty has hardener build in and skins over in seconds, yet very effective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryanmc[501st] Posted October 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2015 Awesome. Thank you so much for the help and patience with a newb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 Here's the pics, this is just after applying the Devcon Plastic Welder After sanding and filler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryanmc[501st] Posted October 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 Thanks, saw that in your build thread. Looks awesome. So you can sand the Devcon after it dries? No issues? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 Yep no issues at all. The crucial thing is to make sure apply filler to eliminate any porosity holes 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryanmc[501st] Posted October 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryanmc[501st] Posted October 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 I use PPG spot putty for the holes, divots. Where do you buy the PPG DFL1? I just spent the last 20 minutes searching and couldn't find it anywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 I purchased mine from a local automotive paint supply store for $25 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryanmc[501st] Posted November 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 Have a question about the holster detail. Mine is too short for the raised portion on the thigh piece. Not sure what to do about that. Here you can see the length. It's being held off center a bit to better show the issue, it does fit left to right. What should I do here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 That does seem awfully wide. Something is off here, either the thigh or the mount was not pulled correctly. Not sure what to do other then contact ANOVOS and cross your fingers, or look at everyone else's builds and get creative. Sorry Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryanmc[501st] Posted November 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 (edited) I wasn't entirely clear in my post, the width is actually fine but the length is the problem. I'm holding the 10M piece off center from the raised area in the first pic, but the 10M piece is too short for the raised area. That's not what other people are seeing on their builds? Edited November 9, 2015 by Bryanmc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody42[TK] Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 How does ist look it you move the 10M thing a bit downward? On my armor it did not cover the raised detail on the thigh completely. I just threw on a lot of abs-paste and putty and then sanded it to shape. The staircase shape on the top and bottom face that you might get actually helps to get the angle on that part right. Check out this reference picture: http://www.originalprop.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Star-Wars-Celebration-The-Force-Awakens-Props-Costumes-Exhibit-Characters-Models-046.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 Got ya. Well these things don't fit exact. You may have to use bondo or other to shape the area correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryanmc[501st] Posted November 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 Thanks guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryanmc[501st] Posted November 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 I really want to trim the pill boxes in my armor, not just for better accuracy but because I think it looks a lot better. So I drew some pill boxes and tested with my rotary tool. The results were less than encouraging. I don't see how you guys do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crashmann[501st] Posted November 13, 2015 Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 Draw the outline of your holes with a pencil or Sharpie. Start the hole with a drill or Dremel, but stay away from the edges. Then get a set of needle files and slowly take away material until you get to the outline. Wow, needle files are less than $4.00 for a 12 pack at Harbor Freight! http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-needle-file-set-468.html Charlie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted November 13, 2015 Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 I really want to trim the pill boxes in my armor, not just for better accuracy but because I think it looks a lot better. So I drew some pill boxes and tested with my rotary tool. The results were less than encouraging. I don't see how you guys do it. Patience! Also, the pill holes are already out lined for you, just follow the return edge, and take your time. After 35 years of being a technician I don't have the steadiest hands anymore, if I can do it so can you. Small hand files are a good idea also, as Charlie has mentioned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryanmc[501st] Posted November 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 I'm planning on glueing this weekend, and pretty much scared to death. I did a final test fit tonight to make sure everything is good to go and had a couple questions. 1. On the ab and kidney sections, on the right side (box 1) currently it doesn't sit flush. Should I sand down the marked areas so the entire side is flush or should I glue it with the box area raised like it is currently? 2. Did anyone have to heat and reform their biceps? Mine aren't quite fitting together right, it stresses the plastic a bit to make both sides meet. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody42[TK] Posted November 15, 2015 Report Share Posted November 15, 2015 Don't be too scared of the glue, but scared enough not to rush things 1. Had the same problem. I left it the way it was and just filled it a bit with abs paste and bondo. The side box mounting area will be covered by the box itself. 2. Yes, I had to force some parts to fit or heat and bend them. But be extra cautious if you heat the parts up, it is dangerously easy to screw up and have them lose shape! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryanmc[501st] Posted November 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2015 I'm planning on getting some snaps for this and my upcoming OT TK build. How do these look? 50 - (5 packs) Black plate Line 24 snaps, 5/16 post - FREE SHIPPING! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IICMVWM/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_rA.swb9S9XB45 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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