Keyla Posted June 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 Ah! Of course, the indentation should solve things. Now i am very excited to try fitting it tomorrow Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The5thHorseman[TK] Posted June 21, 2015 Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 Yeah, it doesn't look like it but the stormtrooper armor is very well designed ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted June 21, 2015 Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 This! Believe it or not, if you mess up there's probably someone who's also made the same mistake and a fix has been figured out. Yea, tell me about it 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyla Posted June 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 (edited) Well everyone says to ask before screwing up so; whats with the extra ridge on this bicep (I don't mean the thumbprint, rather the extra ridge at the bottom opening of the bicep)? The pencil line looks right to cut along, but is it really? And I presume i should retain a return edge on the top end and bottom of the biceps (albeit a relatively thin one...). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited June 22, 2015 by Keyla Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The5thHorseman[TK] Posted June 22, 2015 Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 Your pencil line is the way to go. You can start cutting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chills[TK] Posted June 23, 2015 Report Share Posted June 23, 2015 Yep, you'll have a bit of return edge on the bicep. The pencil mark is a good start place to cut. You want to make sure the entire part that curves out away from the return edge (the extra plastic from the molding process) is removed. If you look at the picture you can see where there is a bit of white between your pencil mark and the shadow for your return edge. You want to cut up to that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyla Posted July 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 Hi all, I've got some news to report! The forearms length is probably OK, but the width is crazy big. It looks like I will need to remove the entire flat edge on both sides and create new ones with a heating iron, because these things are not built for my thin and girly girl-arms. Naturally I am too scared to do this right now, so I have moved onto the thighs: The length is looking pretty good. I've taped them together tight enough that they can stay up by themselves if I don't move; it becomes very tight if I try and sit though, so maybe that is too tight? It is quite a lot of overlap though, as you can see in the following two pictures: If anyone has any fitting advice, feel free to share. In the meanwhile, I will prepare other pieces and probably aim to do a full test fitting before gluing anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bone[TK] Posted July 8, 2015 Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 Sitting is one of the main issues with the armor. Some people, like me, manage to sit in it, but it is not comfortable. So your goal concerning the fitting of the leg armor should be to make them bearable while walking and standing. If they are already slightly too narrow, by all means, losen them up, because otherwise your blood circulation will be cut off after a while. Imagine standing or walking around a few hours and your legs swelling ... not good. The upper legs don't need to hold up by themselves, they will be held in place with a garter belt in the end. They can be a little on the lose side. The amount of overlap was to be expected. Try to take away an equal amount from both sides, so that you end up with a split right in the middle, exactly opposite the front coverstrip. BTW, the back coverstrip can be up to 25mm wide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted July 8, 2015 Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 (edited) Just an FYI however, minor variations won't kill an approval. Cover strip widths: 15 mm for the arms 20 mm for front of legs 20 mm for back of thighs 25 mm for back of shins Edited July 8, 2015 by ukswrath Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troopermaster Posted July 8, 2015 Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 Your thigh and bicep armour should be pretty loose. These are the two muscles that flex the most so you don't want them to be tight. I would make the thighs quite a bit bigger. As Bone said, they will be held up by the garter belt. For your forearms - don't cut the hard edge on top of each part. Keep it so you use a 15mm wide joining strip. Any trimming should be done at the back and don't try to have them skin tight. Like the thighs, they will be hanging from a strap connected to your biceps so they can swing. They may feel too big now, but when strapped correctly, they will feel fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyla Posted July 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2015 Thanks once again for all the input! I've loosened the thighs and I'm pretty happy about it. They still look the right size for me (no massive visible gaps between my leg and the armour) but they will be much more comfortable. I've also started work on the shins, the shoulder bells and the ab plate. I'm very pleased about the size of the ridges on the thighs and shins; they should look really great with the 20mm cover strips. Still too scared to try and size the forearms; will wait with those until I've glued a few things. Still a little afraid to start gluing actually, but I have the mighty e6000 so I am sure I will overcome this fear soon enough. Question: I see some people doing internal cover strips in addition to the external (visible) cover strips, while others choose only external. Does anyone have advice for me on this? On the one hand, I like the idea of it being neater inside even if it won't be seen. It also seems more secure/sturdy. On the downside, I am worried that I may not have enough extra abs strips to do inside as well, or that there will be a weird effect if the tops of the inner strips are seen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted July 10, 2015 Report Share Posted July 10, 2015 Thanks once again for all the input! I've loosened the thighs and I'm pretty happy about it. They still look the right size for me (no massive visible gaps between my leg and the armour) but they will be much more comfortable. I've also started work on the shins, the shoulder bells and the ab plate. I'm very pleased about the size of the ridges on the thighs and shins; they should look really great with the 20mm cover strips. Still too scared to try and size the forearms; will wait with those until I've glued a few things. Still a little afraid to start gluing actually, but I have the mighty e6000 so I am sure I will overcome this fear soon enough. Question: I see some people doing internal cover strips in addition to the external (visible) cover strips, while others choose only external. Does anyone have advice for me on this? On the one hand, I like the idea of it being neater inside even if it won't be seen. It also seems more secure/sturdy. On the downside, I am worried that I may not have enough extra abs strips to do inside as well, or that there will be a weird effect if the tops of the inner strips are seen. Hey Sarah, all my armor use internal cover strips, though not needed it does give the armor a cleaner look. I typically use material removed from trimming for the inner, (dull side up) but also buy extra cover strip material from a armor manufacturer if needed. Here's a build I'm doing for a fellow garrison member. Note the internal cover strip installation. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31920-ukswraths-am-10-ata-bucket-build/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Khazid[TK] Posted July 10, 2015 Report Share Posted July 10, 2015 You can also go to a local hobby shop or model railroad store to get 1mm styrene sheets. You can use that plastic for your interior strips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted July 10, 2015 Report Share Posted July 10, 2015 You can also go to a local hobby shop or model railroad store to get 1mm styrene sheets. You can use that plastic for your interior strips. Not a bad idea Brandon, never thought of that. I wonder what the cost difference is between there and let's say ATA. Tarrell sells two sheets (approx 14" x 24") for $25 with shipping. Good info here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Trooper[501st] Posted July 10, 2015 Report Share Posted July 10, 2015 Trooperbay has some too HERE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyla Posted July 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2015 Well, disaster has finally struck. I was making a lot of good progress and decided that today should be the day when I start to glue. I prepped everything, put on my gloves, and started to squeeze the glue out onto my thigh ridge... ...and the glue "backfired", it shot out of the back right at me, and it went all over the uncovered bit of the table, the floor, and me. Easily a quarter of the tube. I've managed to clean it up as best I can with acetone, but I will need to try and peel the rest off the table and floor once it has dried. And I need to find another tube to buy - not easy here in Sweden! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted July 10, 2015 Report Share Posted July 10, 2015 WOW! I've never heard of that happening. Good thing is once it dries you can just peel it up, assuming this is E6000. Sorry to hear about your mishap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyla Posted July 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2015 It's mostly frustrating, because my summer vacation just started and I was looking forward to cracking on with the gluing. It'll take a while for replacement glue to come. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted July 10, 2015 Report Share Posted July 10, 2015 It's mostly frustrating, because my summer vacation just started and I was looking forward to cracking on with the gluing. It'll take a while for replacement glue to come. I don't understand is there some kind of glue shortage or regulation prohibiting the purchase. Most hobby, craft, DIY stores have this stuff. You need my to ship you some? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyla Posted July 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2015 You can't buy it in Sweden, gotta import it! My last tube came from China (it was really cheap). I have no idea why it isn't readily available here. I've been doing a bit of research though and have found a french website that could deliver by next Friday, if I get 2 tubes it can be about 18 euros delivered which seems OK to me And I still have some trimming and quite a lot of sanding to do, so I'm sure I'll keep myself entertained...! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted July 10, 2015 Report Share Posted July 10, 2015 Sounds good, let us know if we can be of assistance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyla Posted July 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2015 Thanks, the support is really appreciated Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troopermaster Posted July 11, 2015 Report Share Posted July 11, 2015 E6000 peels right off once it's dried. Acetone on ABS is not a great idea so my best advice (if it happens again) is to leave the glue to dry and peel it off. No internal strips are needed. Whether they look nice or not, the correct external joining strips (and that's what they are - joining strips) are more than enough to hold the armour together. I often read how people put them on the inside for extra strength but these are lightweight plastic costumes, not ballistic battle armour, so the external strips do their job more than good enough. Plus, you only have enough ABS strips in the kit for external use. When you start your forearms, get them sized up to where you want them (remember not to have them skin tight) and glue the joining strips to one half of the armour. Once dried, glue the bottom edge only (the one with no hard edge). Once that has dried, glue them shut. This is the best way to glue the arms if you trim them quite a bit since the side with no hard edge will be curved and much harder to get the strips to sit flush with the armour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Khazid[TK] Posted July 14, 2015 Report Share Posted July 14, 2015 Not a bad idea Brandon, never thought of that. I wonder what the cost difference is between there and let's say ATA. Tarrell sells two sheets (approx 14" x 24") for $25 with shipping. Good info here. 3 sheets of 1mm styrene that are 16"x24" sell for 14.99+tax at my local hobby store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chills[TK] Posted July 14, 2015 Report Share Posted July 14, 2015 +1 for internal cover strips. They make the armor look better and give it a lot more strength. Your armor is looking good so far. Keep up the good work and don't be afraid to glue with e6000. You can pull the pieces off and remove the glue. I used it on all my exterior cover strips and nylon snap plates. I used super glue on the interior strips and ABS snap plates. Hey Tony, aren't the cover strips for the thigh backs also 25mm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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