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AP Armour with ANH Centurion as Goal - Build Thread


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15 for arms, 20 for legs.  The 25 for the backs of the legs is a last case scenario, if you after 20's you cannot get your leg's into the pieces.

25 is just for the back of the shins. Not the thighs. The shins open and close while you're moving when you flex your muscles if you use the hook and elastic closing method, so the extra 5 mm helps to hide the opening when you move. The thighs are static so there's no need for extra material on those strips.
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Okay glued the two sides together on ONE side (second side later/with velcro, respectively).  Not an easy task!  80 magnets and several clamps later.  The tough part was trying to get the ridge detail to not separate as it it the only part exposed with no cover strip.  So then I gave it some thought . . . 

 

The calves get covered all the way with a cover strip.  The right thigh ridge gets covered by the battery pack.  The left thigh ridge is really the only one left exposed, and even that is semi-covered by the sniper plate.  So I was originally scared they were all separating, but really that was the one ridge I had to worry about most.  By fluke, it looks to be one of the best.  Here's a picture.  The lect thigh is the second from the front.  You can see the ridge on the right.  Not perfect, but we'll see what I can do in post.  Right now I don't want to shift anything for fear it will all fall apart like a house of cards.  

 

2015-05-17%2010.22.24_zpsfbk0wjlx.jpg

 

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Thanks Tony!

 

I just wanted to add, that it kind of looks overlappy and stuff (especially the second from the front, second magnet from the left), but it's just not sitting flush and won't.  So I'm going to deal with that when I do the outer cover strips.  I love doing inners first.  Definitely the way to go!

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Outer cover strips on shins.  I made them a bit short, but knowing I am going to trim them from the bottom up, it made sense to glue them flush with the top . . . 

 

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I also closed up the backs of the thighs.  They look pretty straight up and down where I trimmed them, so that was a relief.  I tried to get them to pull together as best as possible at the trim, since that part won't be covered, but then I don't think it will matter as I plan to cut most of the trim off the backs.  Partially because it will fit me much better, but also because the AP trim lined up pretty poorly initially, and even worse after I trimmed it.  It actually is aligned pretty good.  The bigger issue with it is the depth of the trim.  Again, it will be gone when I trim it, so I'm going to play this part by ear.  Might need to trim that before submission because otherwise it will look pretty terrible.

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The trim on this one is much worse.  But as I said, it wasn't very good to begin with.  Trimming it off will solve it.  If I'm really not supposed to, I'm not sure what I'll do, but they did it on the originals, so it must be okay.

 

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Here's an original with the back trimmed off . . . 

Thighs%20Trimmed%20Off_zpso4kvgeqo.jpg

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Quick update . . . boy these are boring, haha  I just think it's important to post everything in case there is one particular issue someone who is following this runs into (you can also message me!)

Now I actually do have a note here.  The ridge on the front of the thighs is really kid of wonky on AP.  They're not "bad", and I'll upload close ups once the strip is dry, but they are wonky.  They're not exactly the same, and the right and left ridges aren't the same and the right and left ridges of each thigh aren't the same.  So it's all decent, but it's all a little . . . well wonky.  If you have an AP kit than you alreay know that the right side of the right thigh is longer than the left side, at the top.  Not so with the left.  Anyway, just know you're not crazy if you find they don't really line up perfectly.  Just do your best to align the bottom of the ridges and glue, and then when you put on the cover strips, kind of find a happy medium of where to glue it . . . where the ridge starts.  Because they're a little wonky, where the ridge starts is a little hazy.  The GOOD news is the battery pack on the right thigh covers most of the ridge on that one, so symmetry is not a huge issue.  You also have the sniper plate on the left calf to distrack from the bottom of the left thigh.  As mentioned in my last post, the bottom ridge on the left thigh is about the only uncovered ridge joint, so try to make that as nice as possible.  Okay, pictures (more detailed ones to come when I take off all the clamps) . . .

Thigh front cover strips on . . . 

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Calf rear cover strip on.  This is the one that will later have velcro on it, so only one side is glued on.  again (because I don't want you to forget) glue the outer side on!!

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Here are some pics of the edge . . .

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More pics tomorrow when I take the clamps off and glue my last strip on!  The thigh rears.  

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Awesome job!  On your post #59 from May 5th, you posted this pic

 

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I see that the pieces (easily seen with the one on the left...at the top) don't end up even. One (the outside bicep half) is quite longer than the other and your joint piece is longer too. How did you deal with that? Did you just cut off the outer bicep part to make it even with the inner bicep? Thanks

Edited by Somatophylax
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The strips are longer just by accident and I just trimmed them down after. I actually left the two levels intact, but you can angle it down if you choose. The AP armour has two left arms, so one side is like that, while the other is opposite. Keep in mind you can do a lot to the top of your biceps to make them comfortable because they're hidden under the shoulder bells. Does that explain it okay? I can upload pics of all the finished pieces for you, if that might help.

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Okay, so by request here is the inside and outside of my right bicep, finished.  The left is the same only opposite (or exactly the same, if you will) because the arms on AP are two of the same.

 

2015-05-21%2008.53.53_zps6ljb9kv2.jpg

 

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Here is a pic of the front of my thighs with the cover strip on.  Like I said, the AP ridge is a bit wonky, and I think this is as good as I can expect.  Once I trim and sand a little, and put the battery pack on the right thigh, this will all look nicer.  I also need to trim down the cover strip and the over -extended top bit on the right thigh (that's just the way it came) . . .

2015-05-21%2007.53.51_zpsem1itl9c.jpg

 

I have now glued on the cover strips to the back of the thighs (last ones!).  As you can see, my thigh trimming resulted in fairly straight seams down the back that do line up pretty decently.  Considering I will have to trim off most of the ridge, I am pretty happy . . . 

2015-05-21%2008.45.08_zpsrrcadmah.jpg

 

Next up, holster attachment, battery pack and (ugh) sniper plate, and thigh rigging system!

 

Edited by MechaPumpkin
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Thanks Greg!  The thighs are the biggest bulkiest, most ill-fitting piece of the whole kit, with the most exposed seam and greatest mobility problems.  I don't have a solution to that laundry list of thigh considerations . . . but I just thought I'd lay that out there, hahaha

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Well your build is an inspiration for sure. I am still trying to find the courage to glue the first piece, and obviously to cut the first ABS strip for the joints. I have no clue how to cut it though. So good job and continue to keep us informed. This tread is a gold mine!

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My recommendation on cutting strips is this . . . follow my instructions earlier in the thread, use a cutting mat, tape down a ruler, and use vices. I used up to 4 of them. Snap off/replace your blade often. Then, cut some 15mm (maybe aim for 16mm as you can sand them down a little after).  If you don't like them, don't sweat it, you can use it as an inside strip.  If you need 4 outside and 4 inside, cut 8, pick your favourite 4 for the outside, and the less good ones for the inside.  With a little clean up and your choice of the best 50% of cuts, it's a lot less stressful.  

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Dan, as long as they fit around your thigh and are comfortable, that's the biggest challenge.  My thighs are still a little too long and I need to trim some off the top.  You'll be making adjustments after your first few troops.

 

Stephane, make sure you place the shiny side of the plastic down when you score.  This way if the knife slips, you scratch the side that will be glued.  And when we say cut, we mean score 3-4 times and then snap. You don't need to cut all the way through the plastic.

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And if you do accidentally scratch or even gouge something, you can get yourself some Novus plastic polish. Lots of threads on it here, but I may post something when I'm done and use it for clean up.

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Another quick update.  Left my biceps in a couple of pump clamps overnight and seems to have worked pretty well.  Might try again to get them even rounder, but the de-ovalling seems to be well on its way . . . 

 

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Next I attempted my sniper plate . . . the AP sniper plate is EVIL.  There is no two ways about it.  It will go on crooked, it will go on leaning back or forward, depending what you do.  I was told by my XO that lining up the ridges is far more important than the angle of the front.  So I clamped the front and fought with it, and E6000 and fought and E6000 and fought, and then left it.  I will upload cleaned up pictures tomorrow.  So cringe at these for now . . . 

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I also trimmed my thigh fronts.  I did not trim them down (following everyone's advice), but I did trim them so they were even to each other.  They looked terrible before I did.  They have since been sanded, but I don't have pics of that yet . . . 

2015-05-22%2017.12.36_zpsuwnmlssr.jpg

 

That's it for now.  Nice finished sanded pics of the thighs and clean sniper plate in a little while!

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was told by my XO that lining up the ridges is far more important than the angle of the front.

 

Hahaha. Your XO. He's a chump!

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Okay folks, not my last post, but one with a big finisher!

 

First, I have pics of my belt system, with the velcro in, and nicely cleaned up . . . 

 

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Next, here are some pics of my battery pack attached.  I made a mistake here that I plan to correct at some point.  I should have used a washer under the split rivets (they also still need to be painted) . . . 

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As you can see I put some velcro in there in case I decide I want the battery pack shifted higher or lower.  It was as easy to do as glue, but more versatile.

Then it was time for another armour party!!  (Don't you wish you lived in Toronto?)

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Okay, back to work.  I attached my new holster.  A couple points here.  I have a piece of ABS in my canvas belt, and it's two pieces of canvas thick, with two pieces of elastic as well.  So that part of my belt is thick.  The holster came with Chicago screws, which are fairly shallow.  I got them through, but t was hard.  I had to really lean into it.  The reason I used the Chicago screws instead of snaps and rivets, is because my blaster is resin and quite heavy.  I didn't want to crouch down and stand up and have it unsnap.  I may change my mind, but for now the Chicago screws are good.  I used an awl to punch through all the layers and then as a guide to pull the Chicago screw through.  DO NOT try to drill a hole because drilling and fabric do not mix . . . 

 

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Next I put velcro strips on my calves.  

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So . . . I have a lot of tweaking to do buuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuut . . . 

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So, any comments, critiques, suggestion, will be greatly appreciated!  There will be MANY follow up pictures as I trim my legs some more, clean up the paint on my helmet, alter my neck seal, reinforce my sniper plate, make some alterations so my shoulders don't roll forward, put velcro on the boots to keep the shins from rotating . . . the list will be long, and I plan to post it all so others can learn.

 

Also, I'm not sure there is a single picture of ME on this thread yet, so HI GUYS!!!

2015-05-24%2009.57.21_zps7t7wayav.jpg

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