SeanTX Posted March 19, 2015 Report Share Posted March 19, 2015 So my plan for my E11 is to shoot for the moon with a steel pipe sterling reconstruction. but with any piece I can't make or foul up I have a full PP (DVH) aluminum pipe kit to fall back on. Or best case have two blasters. So parts Layout. I got all the grease out of it with a bath of simple green. And the Phoenix Props Messed up box photo just for dday's reference. Kit seems complete to me. Now an honest review of the kit. I feel I definitely got my money’s worth. But I really look forward to when all the DVH molds have found the same recycle bin that everyone has sent the old FX helmets to. Everything DDay has made himself is flawless. Some of the best casting I have ever seen. The scope, counter, and power cylinders are phenomenal. The pipe is amazing, not a tool mark on it. Maybe a little deburring on the inside but that’s nothing. And including all the hardware and not having us scour the globe for split rivets is awesome. Great kit overall. That said the DVH parts I have never seen so many air bubbles or flash in my modeling career. Some of the pieces I'm not really sure what I can do with. The grip has a tiny bubble at the top of every raised point of the diamond pattern. I'm not really sure how any amount of filler will fix that. But I don't want to bash the kit. I think it is great for the money but will be the be all end all when DDay has the capital to replace everything I'm sure he wants to. Back to my build. I got my steel pipe all covered with templates. Found at: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16705-the-best-sterling-templates-ever/ And after many tries to figure out printer and paper settings finally got it to the right size and glued on. Maybe tomorrow I'll try some drilling. With any luck it will look a third as nice as DDay's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeanTX Posted March 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2015 Well I was able to drill the pilot holes easy enough. But when it was time to widen the holes with my stepped bits I ran into problems. They started wearing out after the second hole. Some didin't even make it to the full size before wearing out. I go about a third of the wholes partly drilled before I threw in the towel. I even ran to harbor frieght to get some more bits incase I could get them to last 5-10 holes. But alas I need a stronger bit. weaker steel or to just buy a steel tube. So this is a list of what Ive used. Maybe a better steel worker can find my error and point me in a better direction. Tube http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/4130tubing_un1.php Bits that don't work http://www.harborfreight.com/titanium-nitride-coated-high-speed-steel-step-drill-bit-set-2-pc-69088.html http://www.harborfreight.com/titanium-nitride-coated-high-speed-steel-step-drill-bit-set-3-pc-60379.html http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-3-4-quarter-inch-high-speed-steel-step-drill-44460.html http://www.lowes.com/pd_42692-281-15504PKSM_0__?productId=1209035&Ntt=irwin+bit&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNtt%3Dirwin%2Bbit&facetInfo= What a joke these were http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-stepless-drill-bits-66463.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted March 20, 2015 Report Share Posted March 20, 2015 Very nice, looking forward to the progress Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usaeatt2 Posted March 20, 2015 Report Share Posted March 20, 2015 I think your problem is with the HF drill bits made from Chinese steel. Try a higher grade unibit - I think I paid close to $50 for my Irwin Titanium coated bit. I used A513 mild steel for my receiver - Rockwell hardness B89. You're using 4130 alloy steel - Rockwell hardness B95. Not that much difference. Drill slow and use a lubricant, if you can. I think I had my drill press set up to run 300 rpm while drilling the receiver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuumantroop[TK] Posted March 21, 2015 Report Share Posted March 21, 2015 From my job knowledge, you should be using high speed steel drill bits to drill through metal, with a low rpm. You might try pecking the drill as well instead of just a straight plunge(unless thats what your doing already). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dday[501st] Posted March 21, 2015 Report Share Posted March 21, 2015 On 3/21/2015 at 6:31 AM, SeanTX said: Well I was able to drill the pilot holes easy enough. But when it was time to widen the holes with my stepped bits I ran into problems. They started wearing out after the second hole. Some didin't even make it to the full size before wearing out. I go about a third of the wholes partly drilled before I threw in the towel. I even ran to harbor frieght to get some more bits incase I could get them to last 5-10 holes. But alas I need a stronger bit. weaker steel or to just buy a steel tube. So this is a list of what Ive used. Maybe a better steel worker can find my error and point me in a better direction. Tube http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/4130tubing_un1.php Bits that don't work http://www.harborfreight.com/titanium-nitride-coated-high-speed-steel-step-drill-bit-set-2-pc-69088.html http://www.harborfreight.com/titanium-nitride-coated-high-speed-steel-step-drill-bit-set-3-pc-60379.html http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-3-4-quarter-inch-high-speed-steel-step-drill-44460.html http://www.lowes.com/pd_42692-281-15504PKSM_0__?productId=1209035&Ntt=irwin+bit&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNtt%3Dirwin%2Bbit&facetInfo= What a joke these were http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-stepless-drill-bits-66463.html Sean, thanks you for the honest review. As far as the bubbles on the grips diamond pattern, can you show some detailed photos, so I can better understand? Also we can talk about getting you a replacement shipped. Also, if you want, I will be having some steel pipes drilled in my next set of tubes in April as well as aluminum ones. We can talk about one for you as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeanTX Posted March 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 I think your problem is with the HF drill bits made from Chinese steel. Try a higher grade unibit - I think I paid close to $50 for my Irwin Titanium coated bit. I used A513 mild steel for my receiver - Rockwell hardness B89. You're using 4130 alloy steel - Rockwell hardness B95. Not that much difference. Drill slow and use a lubricant, if you can. I think I had my drill press set up to run 300 rpm while drilling the receiver. I burnt out the black Irwin unibit in the three pack. But I didn't try the titanium covered one. I guess I'll give it a go. The Wiki article on Rockwell hardness is not as strait forward as my simple mind requires. So is 95 harder than 89? My drill press is set to its slowest setting. I've just been squirting the bit with wd40 between holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usaeatt2 Posted March 23, 2015 Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 I burnt out the black Irwin unibit in the three pack. But I didn't try the titanium covered one. I guess I'll give it a go. The Wiki article on Rockwell hardness is not as strait forward as my simple mind requires. So is 95 harder than 89? My drill press is set to its slowest setting. I've just been squirting the bit with wd40 between holes. Yes, Rockwell HRB 95 is harder than HRB 89. The harder the material, the higher the reading. Does the WD40 "boil off" or sizzle when you spray the bit? If so, the bit is getting too hot, you're damaging the temper of the bit, then making matters worse by shocking it with coolant, which breaks down the bit. You want to run at the appropriate speed (there are formulas to figure the correct speed for your material), and use as much force as the drill bit will accept while producing chips. Don't monkey around using light force. This causes the tip of the bit to get too hot (especially without coolant), which in turn, work hardens your material and wears out the bit. Another method you can try is cut each step, back out the drill, spray it with coolant, then cut the next step, and so on. If the coolant sizzles, the bit is getting too hot - to correct, drill less/cool more often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeanTX Posted March 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 Hmmm is there a better coolant that is readily available you recommend? The wd40 definitely sizzles off. I guess I'll do one hole and walk away. I just get caught up with success and keep moving to fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usaeatt2 Posted March 23, 2015 Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 Beyond going with a specialized coolant ($$), I just use WD40 since it's in a convenient spray can and you can buy it anywhere. It's just fish oil. Besides, when you're done, you can wipe down your drill press and not worry about flash rust on any of the surfaces for awhile... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeanTX Posted March 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 (edited) Cool at least I was doing something right. Edited March 24, 2015 by SeanTX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeanTX Posted March 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 These are some of the bubbles I was talking about. they are in the high point of every raised point. I don't know how you would fill and sand it. I think best to just ignore. But I don't really intend to use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dday[501st] Posted March 24, 2015 Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 On 3/24/2015 at 10:53 AM, SeanTX said: These are some of the bubbles I was talking about. they are in the high point of every raised point. I don't know how you would fill and sand it. I think best to just ignore. But I don't really intend to use it. This is my fault and I didn't even notice it until you mentioned it. It is a problem with the pour. I checked a couple others I have and noticed it on some and not on others. Yours seems to be worse than the others I saw because I really had to look closely to even notice it. I've got no problem sending you a replacement. Without the crappy pour job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeanTX Posted March 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 While i appreciate your outstanding customer service lets hold off for a while. I may not use it or i may order a steel tube from you. Rock on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeanTX Posted March 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 So I got my front sight post out. Pro-tip, use an allen wrench to remove the post before removing the dovetail mount. The post will hit the cover and bend. But before I finally visit my friend with a torch. How do I remove the bayonet mount? Where is it brazed and what will fall off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tr00per Posted April 6, 2015 Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 (edited) I know the front sight guard and front barrel support were attached to the reciever tube by induction-brazing using silver solder. Perhaps the lug is done the same way. How to remove it, is unknow for me. It might be better to perhaps just cut around it, and grind it so you have a round (vent hole size) piece with the lug still on it. Maybe sand down the area around it, so you will have a better vieuw of it. Some other info: About the tubes ^^ Sterling had them pre made shipped to them Edited April 6, 2015 by Tr00per Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kcman[501st] Posted April 14, 2015 Report Share Posted April 14, 2015 Sean TX, about the WD-40 sizzling, that means is too hot. As a mechanic, I drill through metal a fair bit. I would recommend a good quality high speed steel or titanium bit. Also don't lean on your drill. If your pressing too hard, you will burn the bits up. I also would not use WD40, as its too thin and had very little lubricating qualities. I use a little bit of 10w30 motor oil. It's stays put better and part of the job of oil is to remove heat and lubricate. Give that a try. And don't force the drill. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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