I know, I know.. but I didn't know before I joined here.

[TurboPunk]

Ok, I bought this on ebay and it's in transition. If it was someone here that sold it to me, thank you very much, I can't wait to get it.

 

  The reason I bought this fiberglass suit is because I have experiance working with fiberglass. Plus, I didn't know anything about stormtrooper suits until after I bought this and joined the site.  

 

I know being a fiberglass suit the lines are a bit softer then an original. I won't know how soft until I get it but looking at the pics, can you tell me what I could do to make it 501st / FISD acceptable if it isn't? If it isn't acceptable, it's fine, I plan on enjoying the hell out of it any way but I'd like to get it close.    

 

If you want to rag on me, feel free.  I can take it.

 

 

 

 

Edited May 6, 2013 by TurboPunk

[TK5492[TK]]

I really think your best bet here would to be resell that kit when it arrives and then get yourself a kit made of correct material.

 

I realize you will have to do a little more waiting but I promise you it will be worth it. You can definitely get more for your hard earned money than...that.

 

Try here if you haven't already: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/

[thechosenhitman[TK]]

I think it would look good as a display piece.

[LadyInWhite[TK]]

Well, we wish we could get to everyone before they buy... but alas, sometimes this happens

 

Make sure you check it out with the SpecOps detachment, they might have some handy solutions for you as well.

 

(Isn't fiberglass really heavy compared to ABS? Just curious.)

[thechosenhitman[TK]]

In a way Ingrid yes, but it depends how thick it is & what type of resin/jell coat was used to glue the layers together.

[TurboPunk]

Yes, I read through that thread yesterday. It took me this long to post because I was afraid of the answers I would get. BUT, I'm beyond that and am looking for advice. Even advice I was afraid to hear. I'll keep looking for the correct armor but will work with this until i find it.  

 

If it's that bad, I'd really hate to pass it on to someone else but I guess that's the way the game is played. Thanks for the info. Ok, where can I buy the correct kit? Any websites or venders? I know the correct ones to buy now, just not where.

 

I appologize for my ignorance but with no one in my area to learn from, I guess i have to make a few mistakes to get it right.

[SolderMaster]

I really think your best bet here would to be resell that kit when it arrives and then get yourself a kit made of correct material.

 

I realize you will have to do a little more waiting but I promise you it will be worth it. You can definitely get more for your hard earned money than...that.

 

Try here if you haven't already: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/

 

 

Yes, I read through that thread yesterday. It took me this long to post because I was afraid of the answers I would get. BUT, I'm beyond that and am looking for advice. Even advice I was afraid to hear. I'll keep looking for the correct armor but will work with this until i find it.  

 

If it's that bad, I'd really hate to pass it on to someone else but I guess that's the way the game is played. Thanks for the info. Ok, where can I buy the correct kit? Any websites or venders? I know the correct ones to buy now, just not where.

 

I appologize for my ignorance but with no one in my area to learn from, I guess i have to make a few mistakes to get it right.

 

Read the first quote, it has the link to where to get REAL armor from.

 

And Tim, PLEASE never fear what the folks here might say. We are all here for the greater good for all prospective members or even just costuming enthusiasts. I would hope that no one would razz you or insult you for what you decide to buy. We may, however, give you options or ideas. We just HATE when folks get ripped off on eBay. Especially when there is sooo much better armor out there. Most often than not, people who buy armor on eBay thinking they got a "great deal", end up spending more money in the long run.

 

Now, let me look over your photos of what you got and see what we can do for you...

[SolderMaster]

 

Helmet

For 501st approval:

• Lenses must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. They may be flat or bubbled. Acceptable colors are: black, smoke, dark green, or silver.
• The body of the "ears" may be black or gray. The bars have three or four bumps and may be left the same color as the body or painted black.
• The frown must have either 6 or 8 teeth cut out and any coloring must not leave the indented area. Acceptable colors are: black, gray or silver. If there are spaces between the teeth the wearer's face must not be seen
• The tube stripes are black in color and may number between 9 and 15 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. These may be hand painted or decals. There does not need to be the same number per side.
• Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) may be black or silver.
• The aerators (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black, and screening maybe silver or black.
• Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) may be: hand painted, decals. Acceptable colors are: black or gray. Rear traps and tears may have vertical black lines. 

 

 

 

Neck Seal

For 501st approval:

• Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to the top of the Adam's apple. 

For level two certification (if applicable): For level three certification (if applicable):   

 

Shoulder Straps

For 501st approval:

• These must be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. 

 

 

 

Shoulder Bells

For 501st approval:

• One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders. 

 

 

 

Biceps

For 501st approval:

• Biceps are fully closed. 

 

 

 

Forearms

For 501st approval:

• Forearms must appear to be fully sealed and enclosed. 

 

 

 

Handplates

For 501st approval:

• Roughly pentagonal in shape, the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material but must remain glossy. 

 

 

 

Gloves

For 501st approval:

• Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured.

For level two certification (if applicable): For level three certification (if applicable):   

 

Chest Plate

For 501st approval:

• Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate. 

 

 

 

Back Plate

For 501st approval:

• Back plate contains a "O II" design with little or no overlap of the kidney plate. 

 

 

Under Suit

For 501st approval:

• Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos. 

 

 

 

Abdominal Plate

For 501st approval:

• The ab plate has a button area that has 9 gloss black buttons of approximately 7/16" in diameter. 

 

 

 

Kidney Plate

For 501st approval:

• It is allowable to have a single kidney/butt plate for 501st requirements. If a separate kidney plate is used, it should line up with the ab plate, with the top of the kidney plate being flush to or under the back plate. 

 

 

 

Butt Plate

For 501st approval:

• It is allowable to have a single kidney/butt plate for 501st requirements. If a separate butt plate is used, it should line up below the bottom of the belt with with the ab plate, with minimal gap between it and the kidney plate. 

 

 

 

Belt

For 501st approval:

• Belt face is made of plastic (ammo belt). It is comprised of 6 rectangular boxes, with three square buttons, one centered in the middle and one on each end.
• Belt proper may be made from glossy black ABS or a similar shiny material and must be 3 to 3.5" wide. Black canvas or similar heavy material may also be used.
• The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the plastic belt face via black straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt. 

 

 

 

Thermal Detonator

For 501st approval:

• (a.k.a. O2 canister) attaches to the back of the belt. This is an all black cylinder 2 to 2.5" in diameter with black end caps and a black control panel pad, with controls closest to the right end cap. 

 

 

 

Thigh Armor

For 501st approval:

• The thigh armor may open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed when viewed by spectators. The ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh. 

 

 

 

Shin Armor

For 501st approval:

• The shin armor is able to open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed when viewed by spectators. The trapezoid knee plate is affixed to the top of the left shin. 

 

 

 

Boots

For 501st approval:

• Black leather or leather-like, above ankle height, with a flat sole, and small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle with no buckles or laces. Jodphur-type boots or an equivalent style. All stitching must be black, and unnecessary or decorative stitching must not be present. Elvis / Mariachi boots are not acceptable.
• White, or other color boots may be painted black so long as the boots are maintained to remain the proper color. 

 

 

 

Holster

For 501st approval:

• Made of black leather or leather-like material.
• Holster must be worn on the left and be may be attached to the belt from behind with rivets or with loops covering the outside of the belt. 

 

 

Tim, above is the CRL for the Shadow Stormtrooper. Once you receive your armor, review this post and match up the specs with what you have. Just by looking at the helmet photo, it doesn't look too bad. Can't tell if the aerators are grey or silver. You just might be ok.

 

DO NOT RUSH YOUR BUILD. If you run into any snags, PLEASE don't hesitate to post and ask questions, either here or over on the Spec. Ops forums. REMEMBER....We are here to help. Troopers helping troopers!!

[TurboPunk]

SolderMaster, THANK YOU!!!!

 

Thank you for pointing out the link on where to buy again. I'm on my phone so tend to miss some things when I enlarge to be able to read. I was under the impression that those were more "stay away from" sellers.

 

 All I can say is thank you all for your advice and help.

 

I'll take some pics when I receive it and we can go from there. Until then, you have my permission to keep chuckling under your breath and doing your facepalms until I get this sorted out.

 

You guys, i've found, are awesome and I really appreciate everything you guys do.

Edited May 7, 2013 by TurboPunk

[Dday[501st]]

You aren't in such a bad condition with that armor. The most obvious problems are the material, as lots of pointed out, is generally heavier then ABS as well as there sometimes being the extra roughness on the inside that will snag and wear out your underclothes pretty quickly.

From the looks, the back/kidney plate is a single piece, which means that to be a little more accurate, they will need to be separated, but as you can read in the CRL notes, you can have them as one piece for basic approval.

 

You will need some extra pieces to complete the build. You will need a belt to connect the fiberglass belt to, which you then wrap the rest of the way around your waist. Those long black pieces in the bottom of your photo are what they would have you use, I would suggest you get a belt. Check the on-going accessories listing in the on-going sale thread, it's at the top. There is a belt maker here who can probably do the shadow trooper belts as well. You will also need a holster and gloves.

 

As was suggested, head over teh the spec ops page and register there. the white and black troopers while similar can be a little different in places and those guys are all about the shadow trooper, but here, you will find the most activity and a lot of people from here are there as well. So split your time between both places.

 

You can and will salvage your situation, you're not in so bad. Gl putting it together, start up a WIP thread and ask as many questions as you need, there will always be someone willing to pitch in.

 

Also, get in touch with your local garrison, there are generally some people who are willing to join you in your area to pass some experience on and I know in my case, I like building armors, so will jump in a car and help build, but I'm in Germany, so thats probably not going to happen.

[FunkyTrigger[TK]]

Hi there mate.

We really need to see the suit on you,

If you require constructive critiscm on where to adjust it to get it clear able.

 

This is based on meeting the CRL requirement and you getting the suit to fit you right.

 

Fibreglass may feel like real Armour when you are wearing it, but it may be heavy to wear on long troops and move around in.

 

Please check out the shadow trooper requirements.

For example...

Are the helmet tube stripes in the right place?

And should they be blue?

 

Have you been supplied with a canvas material belt or a plastic one?

 

Good luck trooper.

[TurboPunk]

Yes, the tube stripes are blue. I'll be repainting them black and definately make sure they are in the correct place and facing the right direction. Once i get it, I'll assess the entire kit and may just sand it down and repaint it.

I

ordered a black canvass belt from TKettell this morning and he said it should be done and in the mail tomorrow. I'm truely amazed by the quick turn arounds the members here have.

 

Thanks again for all the great advice. I really appreciate it.

[TurboPunk]

Ok, as expected, I've got a lot of work ahead of me. I'm going to replace a few pieces since a few are warped and being fiberglass they don't flex without cracking. The helmet will need some work as well. First I'm going to get rid of the volume control knobs then sculp some ribs for the vocoder. The stripe decals will be removed, the brow trim removed and replaced with something a bit more accurate. I dont think stick-on foam weather stripping is going to cut it.   Then I'll start working on the armor.

 

So, this is what I'm working with. Selling it and buying something else is out of the question. The wife just won't go for it. Plus, I wouldn't want to just dump this off on someone else. I'm sure I can make it work.     

 

I'll post a few pics later since my computer is freezing up.  

[TurboPunk]

 

 

[TurboPunk]

Wow, this helmet is really bad. I think I'll start saving for another and this will be the base for a Death Trooper. There is just so much wrong with it. At least now I can combine my love of zombies with my live of Star Wars.

[Darkmatter427]

Hi TurboPunk,

 

Was checking to see how your project is coming. I think that I may have bought the same armor from ebay (though it's missing the right outer thigh and some other pieces). 

[TurboPunk]

I was able to get another CORRECT set of armor, build it and get approved on my first attempt just days before Boston Comic-Con. I've posted pics in the costuming thread of 501neg.com.

I still have the fiberglass armor as I really cant bring myself to pass it off to someone else. I may either make a Shadow Death Trooper out of it or stick it in the basement in hopes the trolls can fix it.

 

Good luck with yours.

[TurboPunk]

I've been working on this armor for the past couple weeks. I've come up with a cool concept for a "fun" costume. Ill be debuting it at RICC. Im hoping its a hit. I've gotten good responses so far.

Lots of mold making and casting to do as well as sewing and fabricating.

 

Cant wait until the Con.

 

\m/ \m/

[zebrabuse]

You could always replace at least the helmet and tweak out the rest of the suit the best you can. Or if you get new armor down the line (once the wife sees all the awesome reactions from people in person she might change her mind) then turning this into a mash up type suit is definitely a great idea.

 

I just saw photos of the TK getting attacked by the ewok suit at DragonCon this weekend and that was a brilliant one.

 

Definitely check out the spec ops group for advice and your local garrison for armor parties to make some friends.

 

All the best on your build!

[TK-31491[TK]]

If someone hasn't told you already, it is time for a new bucket... The face (nose to chin) is a bad angle... Compare it to another TKs... It took me forever to see how bad it was... Then it hit me like a brick!

 

 

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