8BitBry Posted January 3, 2013 Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 (edited) I'm curious to hear opinions of what works best for comfort and trooping. I found Karin's thread about how to make the wire brackets (http://www.whitearmo...l__ screw loop) but snaps seem way easier and reliable. Is there a preference down the road to Centurion? Thanks in advance! Edited January 3, 2013 by 8BitBry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted January 3, 2013 Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 I'm curious to hear opinions of what works best for comfort and trooping. I found Karin's thread about how to make the wire brackets (http://www.whitearmo...l__ screw loop) but snaps seem way easier and reliable. Is there a preference down the road to Centurion? Thanks in advance! Just what ever works for you, do you want comfort or screen accuracy. I use snaps and elastic, has some give and easy to change if you ever stretch the elastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8BitBry Posted January 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 Just what ever works for you, do you want comfort or screen accuracy. I use snaps and elastic, has some give and easy to change if you ever stretch the elastic. Yah, I'm definitely more fond of the snaps/fabric. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted January 3, 2013 Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 the whole brackets and bolts setup is screen accurate. if you have an ABS kit they can work fine, usually the PVC or more robust plastics such as used by TM's 1.5mm setups work best with the original strapping styles. you can purchase pre-made bracket setups from mrnostripes in the sale section. I simply use elastic straps and plastic snap plates with rivets. I actually put a rivet though the plastic plate to help make the snaps even more robust. (they still can fail) in both systems of strapping the lengths of the elastic and your spacing determines how tight everything wants to be. the key to setting up your strapping comes from 3 areas. 1. keep all elastics balanced in tension. 2. keep in mind your chest plate/backplate and abdomen connections should put your chest and back as close together at the top as is comfortable. 3. put the strapping or harness system so that the ab/butt/kidney sections act like a pair of pants. high and tight allows more movement for stairs and such. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8BitBry Posted January 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 the whole brackets and bolts setup is screen accurate. if you have an ABS kit they can work fine, usually the PVC or more robust plastics such as used by TM's 1.5mm setups work best with the original strapping styles. you can purchase pre-made bracket setups from mrnostripes in the sale section. I simply use elastic straps and plastic snap plates with rivets. I actually put a rivet though the plastic plate to help make the snaps even more robust. (they still can fail) in both systems of strapping the lengths of the elastic and your spacing determines how tight everything wants to be. the key to setting up your strapping comes from 3 areas. 1. keep all elastics balanced in tension. 2. keep in mind your chest plate/backplate and abdomen connections should put your chest and back as close together at the top as is comfortable. 3. put the strapping or harness system so that the ab/butt/kidney sections act like a pair of pants. high and tight allows more movement for stairs and such. Thanks Vern. I'm following your snap plate tutorial and it's going well. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/20396-snap-plate-help/page__hl__%20vern%20%20snaps Only problem I ran into was buying an extra set of snaps that had more of that saucer ridge. Decided to try them even with after dremeling a concave funnel to get it flush, the post would still bend under pressure. Just bought more of the ones that worked so 7 successes so far lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted January 3, 2013 Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 the key to snap plates is making the hole large enough for the snap to sit flush. if you make the hole too small the snap will ride up in back and have a gap. make sure you cover the back of the snap/rivet with white duck tape this way you can use a lot of e6000 on each end without the worry of heat transfering to the snap as much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted January 3, 2013 Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 (edited) Or use a heat gun http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/20893-how-to-recess-press-studs/ I didn't have any problems with the glue on the back of the snaps, just applied the glue around the snap so there was enough on the snap plate. Edited January 3, 2013 by gmrhodes13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted January 3, 2013 Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 (edited) a heat gun is not needed if you make the hole large enough. putting tape on the back, and making the hole larger is much easier than using a heat gun on 20 snap plates. Edited January 3, 2013 by TK Bondservnt 2392 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 a heat gun is not needed if you make the hole large enough. putting tape on the back, and making the hole larger is much easier than using a heat gun on 20 snap plates. With the use of the heat gun the snap plate is completely flush, no stud or tape protruding, also you can bend the snap plate for use on curved armor. In the end what ever works best for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 (edited) a rectangle allows for the plate to be curved. having the tape might sound excessive... but it's a winner in the long run. it's hard enough preping, snaping, riveting and tape... it's lot's of work! Edited January 4, 2013 by TK Bondservnt 2392 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattrooper Posted January 4, 2013 Report Share Posted January 4, 2013 I have made snaps and never had a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicky Posted January 11, 2013 Report Share Posted January 11, 2013 (edited) I cut webbing straps instead of plastic rectangles for my snap plates. More contact surface for the glue, infinite spares, no gap, flexible, compressible. I started with abs snap plate at first but then I said "oh, what the hell" and used webbing for the trunk area instead. Spending more time on the bracket solution seems a bit too extreme to me, and not worth the sweat. Edited January 11, 2013 by Nicky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firebladejedi[TK] Posted January 11, 2013 Report Share Posted January 11, 2013 I don't like using webbing. There is too much give and flexibility in the material and I find it difficult to detach the snaps. Just use extra strips of plastic and e six million. Oh and be sure to file the edges smooth at the corners too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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