Bulldog44[TK] Posted September 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 (edited) About the TD length the CRL specifiates "approximately" because there's no way all the TD on the film were 190,5 mm. So don't worry about that and keep up the excellent work you're doing .Cool, thanks again Germain for the feedback and kind comment. I glued the button panels on the AB plate this weekend as well but two of the corners keep popping back up. The E6000 isn't holding it too well so I am giving it another go and if it fails then I might try something stronger. To make the button panels a bit more flexible to glue down, I sanded them down on the bottom but wasn't a perfect idea. I was also going to warm them up and press them against a semi curved surface but my experience with heating the PVC has been nearly a disaster. So hope this works on the second try. 48 more hours until I know. Edited September 2, 2014 by Bulldog44 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmosis[501st] Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 Outstanding work on those TD clips!!! You are rocking this build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulldog44[TK] Posted September 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 (edited) Outstanding work on those TD clips!!! You are rocking this buildThanks Steve! It was a bit hard to do at first without messing it up but having a practice clip to try first gave me confidence to get it done correctly. Got a lot of help by just studying what other people did here on the FISD. Once the button panels set, I will have my first chance to do an upper armor fitting. Can't wait! Hoping not to disappoint! Edited September 2, 2014 by Bulldog44 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulldog44[TK] Posted September 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 After waiting the full 72 hours for the E6000 to set for the button panels, I peeled off the tape and removed the magnets to find that the corners still didn't hold. For the vertical 4 button panel I left it as is since it was too hard to get it perfectly flat on the surface. I was sure to mess things up if I tinkered with it further. For the larger button panel, I re-taped it and used the PVC glue RS Props provided with the kit. Just a little bit was needed under the 3 stubborn corners. the round magnets kept slipping off so I luckily had some small rectangular ones that sat nicely in place. Then I let it dry for 24 hours. Not sure if I am totally happy with the final position of the large button panel but I think because the area where its glued onto is such an odd shape that it will always look a bit off. The slim 4 button panel slid up a bit but as I said I will not redo this unless someone thinks it needs to be. And I finally connected the Kidney plate & the butt plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The5thHorseman[TK] Posted September 5, 2014 Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 It might prove to be a little difficult to paint the abdominal buttons now that they're glued and that the ab plate is strapped with the rest of the torso. Perhaps you should think about doing it before strapping the chest and back plates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dday[501st] Posted September 5, 2014 Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 It is easier to paint the buttons when they are disconnected, however, it's not a showstopper. You just need a steadier hand, or a place to mount the armor, like a mannequin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulldog44[TK] Posted September 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 (edited) I was going to do that but nothing seems to glue down very well for me so I wanted to avoid messing up the paint job. I wasn't too happy about how it was positioned anyway so I just ripped it off and will try again later. Thanks for the advice though. Edited September 11, 2014 by Bulldog44 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulldog44[TK] Posted September 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2014 (edited) Finally attached my holster to the belt. I used Chicago screws to attach it since I might change up holsters in the future. I first referred to the Billhag PDF for the measurements but I slightly deviated from those measurements. 20 mm from the edge of the ammo pack seemed rather close and from the movie stills it looked a bit further away on many troopers. So I set the first hole at about 30 mm. Looks okay but probably should have stayed with the 20 mm. If the holster hung straight down then it would look great but it sort of gets pushed toward the back at an angle. Here is just a picture after the holes were punched on the holster straps. I still need to take some photos of it attached. Post those later. I was not happy with my previous positioning of the button panel so tried it again. Unfortunately there are now ugly blemishes on a few corner areas where i used the stronger PVC glue. I tinkered with the edges of the panel and shaded them down too much. I hope to get a replacement soon. For now I will stick with this and get the buttons painted. Previous Present (tilted 2 degrees to the right) Probably doesn't seem like much of a change but those darn 2 mm differences end up driving me nuts! I know I should have painted those buttons before going any further but I couldn't help seeing how everything fits. Here is my first test fitting: the family was asleep by the time I got working on this so I was left to put it all on myself and take the photos. Mobility was not bad but the chest plate is digging into my throat. I'll have to adjust the shoulder straps. The butt plate wings out on each side, the AB and kidney plate has a lot of overlap, other than that it fits nicely. I will post more photos of the armor from the side and back when I do another test fitting. Please offer any advice you think I need to improve things. Another step closer to the 501st! Edited September 12, 2014 by Bulldog44 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The5thHorseman[TK] Posted September 12, 2014 Report Share Posted September 12, 2014 I think the result will be awesome About the choking issue, i think you can reduce it by getting the middle elastic between the ab and chest more loose. And about the butt plate flaring this is intrisically due to the original armor RS has recast. If you look at screenshots from the film you can notice that a lot of butt plates flared like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulldog44[TK] Posted September 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 (edited) I think the result will be awesome About the choking issue, i think you can reduce it by getting the middle elastic between the ab and chest more loose. And about the butt plate flaring this is intrisically due to the original armor RS has recast. If you look at screenshots from the film you can notice that a lot of butt plates flared like that. Thanks again Germain. I will try redoing the straps for the chest to add some slack. I stitched them up pretty good so it will take some time to undo them. Probably best to just make new loops. This weekend I tested out some paint markers to use on the bracket screws and rivet heads. Not sure if this is the best product for this but it is easy to use & dries quickly. If this is not a good idea, please let me know before I start this weekend. I will be using a liquid masking to keep this stuff from getting on the armor. This stuff was recommended by one of the Japanese Garrison members. Just have to paint it on with the cap brush and let it dry for 30 minutes. Takes time but it covers hard to get areas and easy to remove. Next I tried my hand at making the bicep strap hooks using the tutorial by SIMpixels. I had a few problems getting the right bends and ended up with hooks that fell short of the right space to clear the return edge of the bicep. I used a blow dryer to heat the PVC and make it flexible enough to bend. then used a metal file to shape the hook . This was not thick enough so the hook is quite narrow. Also, I found that filing the lines where the bends would go weakened the plastic and then they would eventually crack off whenever I tried to make an adjustment. Hooks were too long so I had to trim off more from the edge- Glued onto the inside of the biceps- You can see that I had to bend the hook part out more to clear the return edge. Seeing how the hooks do not quite function or place as they should have due to my poor craftsmanship, I had another go with a different design. I looked at the photo reference below and noticed that the hook used on an original TK bicep looked more roundish. Using the blow dryer set on high heat, I warmed the PVC strip and used a round metal hammer handle to shape the hook. I used just my fingers to form the PVC strip around the metal bar and held it into place until it cooled. Then I heated the area where I wanted to bend back the hook and used the edge of a piece of lumber to push the hook down at the desired angle. This is really hard to put in words so if anyone is interested I can make a "How To" doc or video. I haven't attached these yet but tested how they will work. Looks like a perfect fit . The hooks reach over the return edge and rest directly on the bicep surface. The hook hangs back into the bicep so when your arm is inside the armor it presses up against the hook and it springs forward, enough to catch the shoulder bell strap & keep it all in place. Lastly, I had tried numerous ways on how to attach the outer drop boxes with the inner boxes without making it permanent. I wanted to be able to store things inside the boxes, ex. personalised TK cards or whatever. I had some flat metal brackets with predrilled screw holes sitting around so I tried bending them to the needed depth into a hook shape. I used a screwdriver shaft to form the bend. 1Before bending the brackets down into their final position, I secured them on the inside of the inner boxes between the Chicago screws that I used to attach the elastics. Then I bent the bracket into place. After that I used some double-sided removable tape to set a rectangular magnet into place on the inside of the outer drop boxes. (Temporary until I think of a nicer way to fix these into position.) The outer & inner boxes lock together perfectly! I will add a safety strap attached to each box from the inside in the event the magnet separates from the tape. The magnet strength is quite powerful and pulling on the elastics to open the boxes will end up a mess so I will also add a small pull tab attached to the inner box to open the boxes. Hope this all makes sense. Edited September 16, 2014 by Bulldog44 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The5thHorseman[TK] Posted September 16, 2014 Report Share Posted September 16, 2014 (edited) Then I heated the area where I wanted to bend back the hook and used the edge of a piece of lumber to push the hook down at the desired angle. This is really hard to put in words so if anyone is interested I can make a "How To" doc or video. If it can reassure you, i understand what you're meaning! And i like the design of your biceps hooks, very cool. I too ended up having troubles with SIMpixel's method and had to modify them to avoid breaking and improve the fit. And about the masking fluid, this is indeed an excellent idea, i don't see any reason why it would harm the ABS and it works very well for protecting an area from paint. Same thing about the markers, unless you can't use them on metal i don't see why it wouldn't work. And as i can see, you already tested them on spare screws and it looks ok, so... Edited September 16, 2014 by The5thHorseman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulldog44[TK] Posted September 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 (edited) Germain, your encouragement is greatly appreciated. Thanks for taking time to look at my build and give me advice. The new hooks are more durable and fit on the biceps nicely. They spring forward a touch when you wear the biceps just enough to catch the elastic straps and pin them in place. Here is photo of them being glued into place. I finally looped the elastics for the drop boxes around the belt. I didn't put the tears on the reverse side like RS does since there is no interference with the snaps that attach to the AB plate. I might add that detail later just for the sake of it. Here is how I might be able to use the drop boxes for storing cards. The magnet is really strong so metal objects won't work obviously but I am happy to at least have them with some minimal function. Pulling the boxes apart by the elastics alone was not possible without certain damage to the elastics and the Chicago screws loosening up. So I used some spare dress shirt collar inserts and will use them as pull tabs. They are very flat, clear,strong & virtually unnoticeable from the front. You can see how they are bent to the shape of the inner box and attached to the Chicago screw assembly from the inside. The drop boxes separate without much fuss with a simple pull. Just need to add those emergency straps from outer to inner drop box in case they literally drop off. Then finally glue those rivet covers on and then the belt is finished. At the speed I am going, I should be finished with the whole suit in 5 years time . Edited September 19, 2014 by Bulldog44 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The5thHorseman[TK] Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 I've never seen drop boxes that much over-engineered ! The belt is a more complex part than it seems from the outside so it will be a good accomplishment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulldog44[TK] Posted November 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2014 Trying to wrap up my armor build this week after a long 2 years. I tried gluing the shoulder bridges on with e6000 but each time I have tried, the glue never sets/ cures. I guess no air gets inside enough for the glue to cure. I really wanted to stick with e6000 for all the parts but I might go with something stronger and quicker drying. Has anyone had the same experience with e6000 & the shoulder bridges? Any advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dday[501st] Posted November 23, 2014 Report Share Posted November 23, 2014 Trying to wrap up my armor build this week after a long 2 years. I tried gluing the shoulder bridges on with e6000 but each time I have tried, the glue never sets/ cures. I guess no air gets inside enough for the glue to cure. I really wanted to stick with e6000 for all the parts but I might go with something stronger and quicker drying. Has anyone had the same experience with e6000 & the shoulder bridges? Any advice? I find 24 hours is generally enough to set the majority of the E6000. But anything that gets 0 air will take much loner to cure hard. But it should. I've never had E6000 that doesn't cure at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulldog44[TK] Posted November 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2014 I let it dry for 72 hours but no lunch each time. I might give it another try tonight but it will probably happen again. I don't like using the stronger glues in case I make a mistake or the part accidentally shifts while drying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dday[501st] Posted November 23, 2014 Report Share Posted November 23, 2014 I let it dry for 72 hours but no lunch each time. I might give it another try tonight but it will probably happen again. I don't like using the stronger glues in case I make a mistake or the part accidentally shifts while drying. You might look into how much you are using. Maybe you are using too much? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulldog44[TK] Posted November 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2014 I will try less, maybe I used too much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The5thHorseman[TK] Posted November 24, 2014 Report Share Posted November 24, 2014 Do you apply the glue like said in the instructions? On both surfaces, wait for 10mn until it feels dry when touched, then clamp together? I bet you do, but just in case... Also before trying again, you can try to fill the recesses in the shoulder bridges with ABS tabs in order to increase the gluing surface for a better bond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulldog44[TK] Posted November 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2014 (edited) Do you apply the glue like said in the instructions? On both surfaces, wait for 10mn until it feels dry when touched, then clamp together? I bet you do, but just in case... Also before trying again, you can try to fill the recesses in the shoulder bridges with ABS tabs in order to increase the gluing surface for a better bond. Thanks Germain. in haste I tried about 5 -7 minutes this time around. I will wait a bit longer before clamping if the glue doesn't set & need to try again. I should probably stick to the instructions. It probably needs just that little bit extra curing time to set the glue evenly. I did add the extra plastic pieces too for a better surface area. I will update tomorrow after a full 72 hour drying cycle. Praying! Edited November 24, 2014 by Bulldog44 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troopermaster Posted November 24, 2014 Report Share Posted November 24, 2014 Is the glue problem only on the shoulder bridges or were there other areas that didn't stick? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulldog44[TK] Posted November 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2014 Is the glue problem only on the shoulder bridges or were there other areas that didn't stick? Hi Paul, Just the shoulder bridges. I had a few other cover strips that wouldn't stay together but that was more of an issue with parts not lining up creating uneven surfaces. But the bridges I have sit really snug to the chest plate surface. I lightly sanded the areas on the chest plate where the bridges will be glued down on and also on the bridges too. I cleaned the parts too. This is probably a combination of me doing something incorrectly and my usual case of bad luck. Has this happened to you before? Any additional advice is certainly welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troopermaster Posted November 26, 2014 Report Share Posted November 26, 2014 I've had a bad tube of E6000 once before where nothing would stick. The glue just never cured properly. If you are using the same tube and everything else is sticking okay, you know the glue is fine. I use several clamps to hold the bridges in place and leave for two days to make sure the glue has cured properly. Not sure if there is anything else you can do except maybe try a different tube of E6000? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulldog44[TK] Posted November 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2014 (edited) I've had a bad tube of E6000 once before where nothing would stick. The glue just never cured properly. If you are using the same tube and everything else is sticking okay, you know the glue is fine. I use several clamps to hold the bridges in place and leave for two days to make sure the glue has cured properly. Not sure if there is anything else you can do except maybe try a different tube of E6000? Thank you again Paul for replying. I did use two different tubes just in case one was bad. No luck. Last night I had enough of the problem and finally used some cement glue to pin down the areas that are giving me trouble. It worked but some of the cement glue seeped under the masking tape. Now I have some minor blemishes along those areas. I did a little light sanding and buffing but guess I will have to live with it. Th price I will pay for my impatience. But seeing that my build spans 2 years its time to get it to use now so I will tackle the belt rivet covers tonight and try to paint the AB buttons. I think those are the final two things to do and then its done. Edited December 3, 2014 by Bulldog44 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulldog44[TK] Posted December 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 Last push to get this done. Finally got those darn shoulder bridges glued in place. Had to resort to stronger glue for areas that would hold with E6000. Some minor glue damage along the seams but shaded and buffed them out as best as possible. Sorry no detailed photos taken yet of this. shoulder bridges in place shoulder bridge thin elastics added AB plate control panel buttons painted Belt rivet covers glued in place hand guards temporarily stuck on gloves. Bely rivet cover close up: I used some strong double sided tape in the center recessed area to keep them from coming off if the glue fails. AB buttons: my hands were asking doing these. I majored in art/painting but this was somehow entirely a nerve-racking experience. Masked the buttons off first but had lots of bleeding edges, Then I just went free hand on them and used paint thinner to on a clean brush to clean up the edges. I had a large cleanup on the lowest blue button and there still is a light blue haze around the button I cannot remove. Otherwise, i am glad I got it done, finally. Just a quick test fitting. Felt great to get to this point. Just working on applying now and hopefully get my TK ID.Wish me luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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