TK-8461 Requesting ESB Centurion Status[ATA*][67]

[flashpoint0214[TK]]

Name: Gary Collins Jr.

TKID: 8461

FISD Name: flashpoint0214

Hight: 5' 9"

Weight: 210

Garrison: Florida Garrison / Makaze

Armor: ATA

Helmet: ATA

Under suit: Under armor 2 piece

Neck seal: Darman TK 6391

Gloves; rubber

Boots: black jodhpur dyed white

Holster: Trooperbay / ESB

Belt: White canvas / Tkittle

Hand plates: ATA / ESB

Thermal detonator: ATA

Blaster: Pipe build /w/ resin parts supplied by TK8354

Electronics: Aker voice amp /w/ Memorex wireless mic. and 9V fan kit

 

[Locitus[Admin]]

Well, unlucky for you and your father, additional centurion requirements passed voting yesterday. The additions are the following:

• Side and crotch rivets must be split rivets. No brads. Head size: 8 mm.
  
• Must use movie correct assembly method, Cover strips for ANH & ESB, overlap for ROTJ.
  
• Ab plate button plates must be a 1-part pieces, no separate buttons.
  
• No FX armour.
  
• Thigh ammo belt must be attached to thigh with cap rivet or split rivet in the upper corner.
  
• Sniper knee plate must be correctly aligned with the ridges on the shin.
  
• Sniper knee plate must not have visible rivets.
  
• Boots must either be worn or not and match condition of armour. Do not mix battle worn boots with pristine armour or the reverse.
  
• Any battle wear must be light. No TD-style weathering.
  
• Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt without gap between belt and box.
  
• Drop boxes must have inner drop boxes. No flat covers.
  
• Thermal detonator belt clips must be positioned near the end caps (roughly 1/8" apart).
  
• No more than 1 black stripe on each ear (ANH). 2-3 stripes per ear (ESB & ROTJ).
  
• Require AM chest and back armour to be replaced with a screen accurate version.
  
• Require AM shoulder bells to be replaced with a screen accurate version.
  
• Remove the word ideally completely from existing wording.
  

[flashpoint0214[TK]]

ok, then aside from a little tweak on the detonator ends we should be good to go.

[Locitus[Admin]]

And the drop box inside covers. I would also need a picture of the inside armour for the side split rivets. I would also recommend that you cut off the tapering on the knee plates as it's not supposed to taper out like yours.

I also can't approve of those gloves. They are neither rubber nor silk gloves.

[flashpoint0214[TK]]

Ok, I will take care of those items and post the fix pictures. Thank you sir.

[Locitus[Admin]]

No problem.

 

I would also recommend a slightly smaller return edge on the chest and back (possibly kidney and butt as well, but I can't see). No only would it look better, but have less risk of cracks. There's also some excess plastic on the sides of the ab and kidney that kind of flares outwards. I recommend trimming that off too. Don't worry about it increasing the distance between ab and kidney, I find it within reasonable limits.

[flashpoint0214[TK]]

I just want to make sure we are on the same page.

is this what i need to trim?

[Locitus[Admin]]

Shin, yes. But a little bit further up the side. 1-2/8" or so.

Side of the chest, yes

Side of the back, no

Bottom of chest, yes

Bottom of back, yes

Side of ab and kidney, yes. Both sides. Just a little.

[flashpoint0214[TK]]

Awsome, thanks for working with me.

[Locitus[Admin]]

No worries. Make sure your father also gets the same treatment.

[flashpoint0214[TK]]

Shin, yes. But a little bit further up the side. 1-2/8" or so.

Side of the chest, yes

Side of the back, no

Bottom of chest, yes

Bottom of back, yes

Side of ab and kidney, yes. Both sides. Just a little.

 

Locitus, here are the fixes I have done so far. I still have to trim the sniper knee and I am waiting on the drop box inserts to be shipped.

Also here are the pics of the split rivets.

 

All my edges were braught down to roughly 6mm.

 

 

I took a little off the side edges. I hope this is good.

 

I moved the clips over some.

 

These are 8mm head split rivets.

 

I got a set of rubber chemical gloves.

[flashpoint0214[TK]]

[Mogwai[TK]]

That is a great afford to go all the Way!

Great Work so far.

[Locitus[Admin]]

That's a lot better.

[flashpoint0214[TK]]

Sniper knee is fixed.

 

A little buffing in the trimmed area to bring back the gloss.

just waiting on the drop box inserts. hopefully they get here soon

Edited October 20, 2012 by flashpoint0214

[captsafe66[Admin]]

Great Attitude Trooper!! Do what it takes, make no excuses.

[FunkyTrigger[TK]]

TK-8461

 

You are definitely on the right track working through the required changes for the Centurion award.

 

These actions are commendable.

 

When you re-submit your pictures, can you please ask the photographer to tell you if your forearms are not sitting correctly.

 

I personally feel they look too big.

This is backed up by the fact that you have a lot of padding foam in there to fit them round your arm.

 

I am not going to Suggest that you have to split and reform them to be closer to your arm shape, but this is what I am going to suggest.

 

Try and make good with what you have.

The first frontal picture doesn't show both forearms in the same rotated position.

The gap between your elbows looks quite large and that your forearms appear to be resting on your hands.

 

How you choose to apply the position of your forearms will be your personal choice.

 

I chosen to have popper connection elastics connecting my biceps to shoulder bell, and a connection elastic from the bicep to the forearm.

 

I have measured where I wanted the bicep to sit, and that was just above my elbow, and not resting on my elbow.

 

I then wanted my forearm to stay positioned closer to my elbow.

This is why a connection elastic is there.

 

The poppered connection elastics are not a requirement.

In fact they are not part of the original film strapping.

They are merely a field trooping modification to help keep Armour in place and to help stop the components rotating, and to keep them together.

 

Please don't be offended by my suggestion.

 

Please don't feel that I am contributing in moving your centurion goal posts further away.

 

It is hard for people to people to stick their necks out and comment on other people's hard work.

 

This is a case of Troopers helping other troopers.

 

[FunkyTrigger[TK]]

This thread has diagrams and more info on arm strapping.

Good luck.

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?/topic/21610-Shoulder-Bell-Rotation-Issue

[flashpoint0214[TK]]

Thanks for the input. My forearms actually fit great. The padding is just so they don't turn on me when I pose for pics in different ways. My shoulder bells are free floating for manouver ability. I will make sure my forearms are. Ice and straight for the re post pics. Thanks for the constructive criticism.

[89Batman[TK]]

Sorry for the hijack but what is the point of insisting on split rivets unless they are practical?

I personally think you have achieved a great build and deserve praise.

However you have also illustrated the futillity of some of these new standards.

Seriously what is the point of having rules about the inside of the armour?

You either go all the way or not at all surely.

 

 

 

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

 

 

[Locitus[Admin]]

Sorry for the hijack but what is the point of insisting on split rivets unless they are practical?

I personally think you have achieved a great build and deserve praise.

However you have also illustrated the futillity of some of these new standards.

Seriously what is the point of having rules about the inside of the armour?

You either go all the way or not at all surely.

 

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

The point of requiring split rivets no matter if they are functional or not is not an inside-armour requirement but an outside. They do look different from the brads that were allowed before the new rules. They do look different than cap rivets and they do look different than the pop rivets of the old days. Surely you must know that, and understand?

 

Could any solid dome rivet of the right size be allowed since it would virtually identical? Yes. But split rivets are dirt cheap and if you want to make them practical then you can and at the same time be accurate, so there is no need to allow any other kind of rivet.

 

A third ulterior motive of mine is to make more people make their rivets practical by using them for the elastics like on the original suits, even if they don't go full loop 'n bracket strapping. It's still an easy to use, cheap and reliable hybrid strapping with added accuracy.

[flashpoint0214[TK]]

89Batman, I appreciate your praise! I have also received the same by Locitus and alot of others. I just want the best armor I can achieve, and get as close to screen accurate

as possible. The requirements are set for that specific reason, ( screen accuracy). Like Locitus stated, the rivets are not an inside requirement, but an outside requirement.

It is for uniformity. He had good reason to ask to see the inside to prove that they were indeed split rivets. I have seen some troopers try to use other fasteners that resemble split rivets but they do not cut it! Yes I could have made them practical by actually using them. To be honest I did not add them until I applied for centurion status. I will happily continue to do what it takes to achieve

centurion status, and I recommend the same for every other trooper.

[89Batman[TK]]

The point of requiring split rivets no matter if they are functional or not is not an inside-armour requirement but an outside. They do look different from the brads that were allowed before the new rules. They do look different than cap rivets and they do look different than the pop rivets of the old days. Surely you must know that, and understand?

 

Could any solid dome rivet of the right size be allowed since it would virtually identical? Yes. But split rivets are dirt cheap and if you want to make them practical then you can and at the same time be accurate, so there is no need to allow any other kind of rivet.

 

A third ulterior motive of mine is to make more people make their rivets practical by using them for the elastics like on the original suits, even if they don't go full loop 'n bracket strapping. It's still an easy to use, cheap and reliable hybrid strapping with added accuracy.

 

Mathias with respect if you say they look different then why do you need to see the inside? If they are different surely you would be able to see without looking at the inside?

So following your theory should screws be visible from the outside too? Afterall you can actually see them.

 

Gary good luck with yur application my friend, as I said your suit looks great.

[flashpoint0214[TK]]

Thank you sir. I appreciate it.

[Locitus[Admin]]

Mathias with respect if you say they look different then why do you need to see the inside? If they are different surely you would be able to see without looking at the inside?

So following your theory should screws be visible from the outside too? Afterall you can actually see them.

Could any solid dome rivet of the right size be allowed since it would [look] virtually identical? Yes. But split rivets are dirt cheap and if you want to make them practical then you can and at the same time be accurate, so there is no need to allow any other kind of rivet.

 

That is why.

Yes, following my theory all the way, the bracket screws should also be visible. Would I like that? Yes. My own armour has that, even if I don't use the bracket assembly. But I can only demand so much of others, and this is where the requirements are today.