Owen91 Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 It's here! I've got everything opened and splayed out across my floor. Between siezures of joy, I'm trimming the kit from the calves up. I'm aware that the T/MC suit was formed off an ROTJ original, and as such utilises the overlap method on the limbs instead of coverstrips. Will using this method be acceptable for an ESB trooper (its not mentioned in the CRLs at all) or should I use the coverstrips? I ask because I'm a little scared of this thing and I do not want to mess it up with any potentially unnecessary cutting. Until then, I'll just keep on trimming. Thanks guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK5492[TK] Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 (edited) For EIB the overlapping method is acceptable. However, I STRONGLY recommend using the coverstrip method. It's easy to do, more accurate, and for some reason it looks WAYYYY better IMHO. You only do your build once. Do it the right way the first time so you won't regret it later. Also, even if you don't build it to Centurion standards right away, you will always be ready to do so in the future. A few things here and there are much better than having to pull apart all your armor pieces down the road. Even if you are going for only 501st acceptance, I still say go with the coverstrips. You won't be sorry. BTW I was formerly with the 4th Florida Infantry Co. G, and later, the 97th Pennsylvania Fife and Drum Corps Co. A. Not into reenacting anymore, now living in Japan, but nice to see a fellow living historian. Edited September 27, 2012 by TK5492 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 Yay hope your build goes well, good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tsalagi Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 Can't wait to see some pics, hoping to get this armor kit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen91 Posted September 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 Thanks for the informative response Tyler! I'll definitely give the cover strips a shot. Is there any way I can use the cover strips to help tighten up the calves? When the front seam is fit flush a very wide back seam is the result. When I try to push the back and front seams of the calf pieces together it takes a lot of effort to squeeze them into place. I can't hold them in place with clamps alone. I'm confident the glue can hold the front seam, but I'm a bit cautious about how well the industrial velcro will hold the back. I've seen a few people melt their calves trying to remedy this, so I'd really, really like to stay away from a heat gun. It may work out just fine, but I've got a bad feeling about it. I'll post some pics tomorrow, unfortunately I've only got a cellphone camera. Will try to borrow a digital cam ASAP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 Just be carefull with the heat gun, there is a point were the plastic goes from pliable to extra soft. You can tell when it is warm enough because you can move it with a small amount of pressure, make sure when it is in the right spot to hold until it cools down, wont' take long. You can also use a hairdryer if your afraid of too much heat. Good Luck be waiting for some pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen91 Posted September 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 A hairdryer will work? I think I'd rather use that. It may take longer to get it hot enough to bend but at least It wouldn't be as quick to warp. I'm pretty sure I know the answer to this, but should I bend a part before I glue it together or afterwards? I'm thinking afterwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 Really depends which area, if you have to straight pieces that will be need to be glued together then I would glue it first then try heating and bending, sometimes you need to bend a section to get the straight lines. I have been told that the e6000 glue is quite easy to remove if you make a mistake when glueing. Good Luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK5492[TK] Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 I know what problem you are referring to. DO NOT jump straight to the heat gun. Glue it first, and then I Promise the velcro will do it's job. It's very difficult to tell how the plastic will come together when it is apart but TRUST ME- it will be fine once you get that front glued shut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tray[TK] Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 I wear the same kit and the velcro has no problems holding the back of the greaves together as is. I never put a heat gun to anything on my armor except the butt plate to get it to shape my butt better. Thanks for the informative response Tyler! I'll definitely give the cover strips a shot. Is there any way I can use the cover strips to help tighten up the calves? When the front seam is fit flush a very wide back seam is the result. When I try to push the back and front seams of the calf pieces together it takes a lot of effort to squeeze them into place. I can't hold them in place with clamps alone. I'm confident the glue can hold the front seam, but I'm a bit cautious about how well the industrial velcro will hold the back. I've seen a few people melt their calves trying to remedy this, so I'd really, really like to stay away from a heat gun. It may work out just fine, but I've got a bad feeling about it. I'll post some pics tomorrow, unfortunately I've only got a cellphone camera. Will try to borrow a digital cam ASAP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen91 Posted September 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 Tyler and Tray, thank you both! I'll push on and start gluing some joints together, I suppose I was merely undergoing a spell of beginner's anxiety. I bought a pair of left-handed aviation snips (they also had straight and right handed snips) from Wal-mart. to assist me with my cutting. They've worked wonders so far, especially on straight edges and slight turns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen91 Posted October 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2012 (edited) Progress so far: Calves completed with sniper plate glued on (held together VERY well, that velcro has a strong grip!) biceps completed, one forearm completed, trimming of parts mostly completed. Tomorrow I'm going to glue the thighs and trim up the remaining accessories! 3 notes: 1. I did decide to use the built-in overlaps, I'm more comfortable with that approach. 2. I'm working on getting a digital camera, I've never really had need of one up to now! 3. This build is turning out to be a LOT of fun and is way less intimidating now that I've gained some ground! (thanks in no small part to the many informative builds posted here on the FISD) Edited October 2, 2012 by Owen91 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen91 Posted October 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 (edited) First pics are up, and with them a question. Does this look okay? I glued it along the front so I can easily peel it off if need be. I've looked at a few screen references on here, as well as some other builds, and I think this works. Edited October 4, 2012 by Owen91 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigironvault Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 Candidly, I dont think that works. The inner ridge needs to line up too. You are not going to get all three key sides perfect but try to get it as close as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen91 Posted October 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 Alright, so its not as close as it needs to be. Thanks Keith, I'll adjust it tomorrow. Also, I've been trimming my helmet, and while the eyes went well I'm not pleased with my handiwork with some of the teeth. If one does not have access to a dremel tool, how does one go about shaping the gaps properly? I want that smooth twinky look, but with a boxcutter and drill I'm not having much luck. Otherwise, I'll get some more pictures and post them tomorrow. I think my calves, forearms, and biceps are in good order, but I had a horrendous time getting the back thigh seam to close. It took 4 of my biggest clamps plus a C-clamp and Tape to get it to hold down, and I'm worried that when the tape comes off I won't find a totally flush fit. We'll find out tomorrow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laserbrain[TK] Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 Also, I've been trimming my helmet, and while the eyes went well I'm not pleased with my handiwork with some of the teeth. If one does not have access to a dremel tool, how does one go about shaping the gaps properly? I want that smooth twinky look, but with a boxcutter and drill I'm not having much luck. If you can't get a dremel, then try some small files. Ideal would be a set with different shapes and sizes: round, oval, flat. Jeweler's files will work. They are small and allow you work slowly and precisely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MxPxRobbie[TK] Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 (edited) Alright, so its not as close as it needs to be. Thanks Keith, I'll adjust it tomorrow. Also, I've been trimming my helmet, and while the eyes went well I'm not pleased with my handiwork with some of the teeth. If one does not have access to a dremel tool, how does one go about shaping the gaps properly? I want that smooth twinky look, but with a boxcutter and drill I'm not having much luck. Otherwise, I'll get some more pictures and post them tomorrow. I think my calves, forearms, and biceps are in good order, but I had a horrendous time getting the back thigh seam to close. It took 4 of my biggest clamps plus a C-clamp and Tape to get it to hold down, and I'm worried that when the tape comes off I won't find a totally flush fit. We'll find out tomorrow! You need a dremel. Go to Harbor Freight and pick up a cheap one. It will save you time and heartache. You can use files too, but dremels are pretty much required for any armor build. You spent $600 on armor - don't be cheap and try to skimp on tools - the only thing you'll do is ruin your original investment. If you don't have the money right now for a dremel, then wait - no sense messing up your stuff just because you're in a rush. Edited October 4, 2012 by MxPxRobbie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigironvault Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 Alright, so its not as close as it needs to be. Thanks Keith, I'll adjust it tomorrow. Also, I've been trimming my helmet, and while the eyes went well I'm not pleased with my handiwork with some of the teeth. If one does not have access to a dremel tool, how does one go about shaping the gaps properly? I want that smooth twinky look, but with a boxcutter and drill I'm not having much luck. Otherwise, I'll get some more pictures and post them tomorrow. I think my calves, forearms, and biceps are in good order, but I had a horrendous time getting the back thigh seam to close. It took 4 of my biggest clamps plus a C-clamp and Tape to get it to hold down, and I'm worried that when the tape comes off I won't find a totally flush fit. We'll find out tomorrow! My two cents is that if you overlap the ridge slightly you can sort of cheat with an illusion vs. making it lower which shows the inner ridge. Makes sense? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen91 Posted October 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 Alright, hows this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laserbrain[TK] Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 That looks better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen91 Posted October 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 I was delayed until today to glue the last thigh seam, so that should be ready to go tomorrow. Any recommendations about snapping/strapping procedures? I was thinking about doing the thighs to a garter system first, then working my way up to the ab plate, kidney, butt, etc. etc. finishing with the shoulder straps. I'm not gonna mess with the helmet teeth anymore until I can get a dremel. Otherwise everything else came together nicely. Tray, the provided CD with pics has helped me out tremendously! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigironvault Posted October 6, 2012 Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 Yup that's the position you'd want Owen. The front almost never lines up perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laserbrain[TK] Posted October 6, 2012 Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 For the thighs, I tried strapping them to the ab piece at first, but later made a garter belt and I like it a lot better. Here is a pic of the one MightyTank makes: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted October 6, 2012 Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 Looking good, sometimes you need to use a little heat for those stubborn pieces of armor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen91 Posted October 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 (edited) Finally I have a camera. Here are some much-needed pics. More to come! My work space. Not much to look at but it keeps the mess off the floor. A few helmet pics. I think might need to open up a few of the teeth some more. What do y'all think? The torso: Riveted side, I used spare plastic to make the washers. No return edge on forearm, is this good? Edited October 8, 2012 by Owen91 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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