MxPxRobbie

So the real question is... which of you guys is sculpting this already and where do I send my PayPal?

This reminds me of how upset everybody seemed to be on the clone boards back when tcw started. I think it's something different and the kids are gonna love it - Sent from my crappy phone

A few months ago, a fellow 501st member, Alex Brown of the MidSouth Garrison, lost his TK helmet just before he deployed to Afghanistan. Currently he is unable to troop - we're looking to find him a replacement helmet that'll get him back out there until he has the time and means to build a new one. Do any of you have an old FX bucket you're not using? Alex Brown is a very active trooper with a heart for helping others. We would like to see it come back around for him. If you have any info, please shoot me a PM and I'll get contact info to you. Thanks troopers!

http://www.501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=12260&costumeID=124 Can somebody re-add me to the detachment? I noticed that I was missing that on the Census page. Probably because I sold my old TK and recently finished a new one. Thanks!

I have completed my NE armor, and it's WAY bigger all around than an RS kit. Are they close? Yes. but so is every other screen-style white amor kit. Isn't that the point? There is no way in Hell a 6'2" 230+ lb guy could fit into an RS *AND STILL TRIM A CRAPLOAD OFF OF IT*. That's right, zero shims anywhere.

Are you saying that Rubies would be making the screen-used armor? I'd say no. They'll make anything they need either in-house or through whichever prop/costume company they hire. Would it be nice to see Legion members in the armor? Sure! But I'm not holding my breath.

To quote the CRL (and you) directly... please note the red emphasis is mine: IF YOU MAKE A SCRATCH-BUILD, RESIN, OR HYPERFIRM BLASTER: Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered). PERIOD. IF YOU CHOOSE TO USE THE HASBRO BLASTER: If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster and you cover all the rows of holes, the blaster will have 7 T-tracks total. PERIOD. But, if you want to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total) with the lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side, then you shall cover the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, and grind off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side and drill a new row of holes in its place. Based on the above, it says "7 is acceptable, BUT if you want to have the correct number of tracks (6) then here's what you do." If the CRL was moved around a bit, then this wasn't addressed. I'm curious as to when the CRL was moved around, as I found an EIB approval from last June with the 7th track still attached. See below: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19846-tk-7543-requesting-anh-stunt-eib-status227ap/?hl=%2Bconversion Not trying to stir the pot here, just trying to make sense before I mess up another blaster. I'd rather keep the new one the same and save the hole-drilling for the eventual full resin or pipe build. Hyperfirm is out of the question for me, I'm afraid.

I think the word "if" there decides it. Says all others must have 6 tracks. -sent from my probe droid

Cool. I destroyed one Hasbro already trying to make the holes, and for now I'd just like to submit one without the holes. I have plans for a pipe or resin build later, when I go Centurion...

Hello! I am a bit confused by the EIB requirements for a Hasbro blaster conversion. Am I required to sand off the bottom left track and drill holes, or can I just cover the open holes and have 7 tracks? Thanks for the help!

A cool mod to do is this: get an empty Scotch tape roll (some sort of small tape roll). Paint it. Cut screw post from inside scope so the barrel is hollow. Get a small plastic magnifying glass (dollar stores sell them in eyeglass repair kits) Cut magnifying glass down to size, and glue into one side of the tape roll. OPTIONAL: Put picture of crosshairs behind lens Glue tape roll to end of scope Here are some pics from a fellow trooper: Looks good, is cheap.

Yes, I overtrimmed a little... meant to leave an edge on there. Makes little difference as I will be getting your hand guards (among other things) before I submit for Centurion.

aaaaand it's been approved - I think this is the first approved NE suit, if I'm not mistaken! Going to finish the EIB stuff and get that submitted shortly!

Pics from last night's troop. Got my back plate to sit a little closer, but adding a strap will make it a lot better.

How big is your mannequin? Build it to fit that, I'd imagine.

Just buy a bigger kit. I'm 6'2" 225 and I trimmed a considerable amount off of my NE armor. Making a vac table and "remanufacturing" parts (taking others work and modifying it) is gonna be WAY more expensive than anything else you're planning. I sold my FX and got this one, couldn't be happier.

Yeah, that's pretty much how mine is,for the most part. Only exceptions are the back isn't connected to anything, and the sides connect with strapping to keep the ab/kidney close. Will have to look into that. Thanks for the pic!

OK, I'll try that after tonight. Thanks for the tip!

Everything is resting on the shoulder elastics. The only thing connected to the suspenders is the ab/kidney to keep it at the right level. Arms are solely connected to the chest/back. I'm having a hard time getting the shoulder bridges to stay under the thin elastic in the back, though.

OK, I'm at work now so I can answer more easily than on my phone... Strapping is done very similarly to the screen-used way - points connected are similar. It's clamshell style. I use a garter system to keep the thighs up. The only thing left from the old way of building is the use of a suspender-like system. That's just personal preference for me, as it is comfortable to me. My clone is assembled in a similar fashion. I have a crazy long torso though. I may be able to get the kidney/butt higher (I had my fiancee dress me, and she wasn't sure where everything went). Also with a little adjustment I can probably get the kidney/back to get closer together. The belt is attached to the ab plate, but that was mainly a temporary thing due to the event I needed to troop today. Another way I could get the ab/kidney higher would be if I cut the crotch off under the belt and reattached it with the gap hidden underneath the belt. Ultimately my goal is to go EIB and then Centurion with this build - I am just waiting on the split rivets, handguards, etc. Since you're here though, I do have a question - is a blaster required for Centurion?

Haha then I'll start singing soprano! Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

There's either a gap in the front or the back. I can maybe slide the chest back a little, but the chest overlapping the ab is more important than the back, imo Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Biceps are lower now, this was a test fitting. How do you know what strapping methods I used? I followed direction from a friend who has used this method on many suits, from tmc, ap, etc. It's not the screen accurate strapping, but a similar system. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

I bought them months ago from a guy on the legion boards. Used to have caboots but I retired those, along with my fx suit Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Just about done! Some minor tweaking for a troop tomorrow, but aside from that it's ready for action