Striker Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 Well I decide to build my first blaster ever and chose the E-11 I know the wires aren't curled as much as they should be but I am waiting on something specific but wanted to see what it look like with these . Let me know what you guys think. In the process Sizing the scope rail Taping the weathered scope Ready for paint! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Striker Posted June 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 Here we go Close up of the bolt and scope Right side of handle and trigger Back right view. Mag, counter, and cylinders with wires Back Left Counter shots Left handle/trigger Left scope...I love the details Top scope Left Barrel Dead center of course Right Barrel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 not bad for your first one! you should cover the holes with another T Track on the right side. looks like all your starting parts are not actually cast from the originals. small details are needed if you wanted to bring up the accuracy a little. the bayonet lug flat spot, the rear folding stock mount, the folding stock front should extend past the barrel about 1/2" the wires also don't attach to the pins on the counter, they actually attach below them on the body of the counter. also the T Tracks should bend into the holes on the barrel. but overall I'd say you did a fine job with the parts you have. next time purchase the Doopy Do's MK II kit, and you'll see the difference! I had fun looking at this and you can be proud of it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Striker Posted June 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 (edited) Wow I didn't know that the wires went under the counter but I am going to add the rear stock mount and the bayonet details as well. I am going to build another one soon and will move the folding stock out more. This was a huge decision I was trying to figure on how it looked but I will need to change the folding stock a little between the barrel and part. I had to pull it back a little since it was not exactly accurate looking ;p its kind of rounded in that area and that would show more. My 2nd go at it would be better Thanks for your input. Edited June 27, 2011 by Striker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 (edited) add the flat spot for the bayonet lug on the left, add the bayonet lug. add the T Track on the right. folding stock more forward to extend past the tip. better! here's a wires pic Edited June 27, 2011 by TK Bondservnt 2392 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smitty Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 (edited) Great looking E-11! Only thing I see thats you are missing is a piece of T Track on the bottom row of holes on the ejection port side. Oops one more thing, you need something that resembles the bayonette lug on the opposite side. Edited June 27, 2011 by Smitty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Striker Posted June 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 not bad for your first one! small details are needed if you wanted to bring up the accuracy a little. the bayonet lug flat spot, the rear folding stock mount, the folding stock front should extend past the barrel about 1/2" the wires also don't attach to the pins on the counter, they actually attach below them on the body of the counter. I had fun looking at this and you can be proud of it! Does anyone have a picture of how they attached theires? Is it just glued straight to the counter under the pins? I cent really tell at the moment in these pictures. Thanks for the heads up though. Great looking E-11! Only thing I see thats you are missing is a piece of T Track on the bottom row of holes on the ejection port side. Oops one more thing, you need something that resembles the bayonette lug on the opposite side. Thanks I got the pieces ready to go on soon . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john danter Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 Lower the swivel lugs that attach the shoulder assembly to the receiver. (on top of your right hand as your right hand holds the blaster-assuming you're right handed ) Make some shape that sticks out out the receiver. Hard to explain, but the shoulder bracket swivels 'under' the receiver, not on it Looks cool to me good job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Striker Posted June 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 Lower the swivel lugs that attach the shoulder assembly to the receiver. (on top of your right hand as your right hand holds the blaster-assuming you're right handed ) Make some shape that sticks out out the receiver. Hard to explain, but the shoulder bracket swivels 'under' the receiver, not on it Looks cool to me good job Sorry not to sound to new but I am unsure of what you mean but I am sure I am just not getting it at the moment lol. Also it was mentioned earlier by Vern that my wires actually attached to the counter body not the pins. I have different wires to attach but everyone else's builds that I seen have them coming from the pins Any other information would be appreciated. Thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 its because everyone else assumes that the wires are attached to the pins. I have a photo coming to show the folding stock swivel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BananoPower22[TK] Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 I am in love with the weathering you gave to it!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Striker Posted June 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 (edited) its because everyone else assumes that the wires are attached to the pins. I have a photo coming to show the folding stock swivel. Lol cool, I was ready to add them the counter when I saw all the other pictures. I would love to see your pic. Thanks again. I am in love with the weathering you gave to it!!! Thanks The parts are black resin so I didn't need to paint the scope just dry brush it. The body had a few coats then morre dry brushing Now I just need to get my hands on a left handed holster lol. One I have now is left handed Edited June 28, 2011 by Striker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThayNerd[TK] Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 That turned our really nice. I'd like to do a custom built blaster soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john danter Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 (edited) Look at this picture a second... Focus on the lower part of the main body tube (receiver) Look behind the pistol grip. See the green circle behind that? Well that's where your shoulder stock should be attached to the main body. Not where you've put it That's all dude Here's a real one, showing how it travels along the length of the bottom of the receiver If you think about it, it can't attach where you have it, as that tube has a moving block inside it. It's meant to be free from obstruction. Which is why that little shape and tube is there to hold the shoulder stock safely Edited June 28, 2011 by john danter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Striker Posted June 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 (edited) Look at this picture a second... Focus on the lower part of the main body tube (receiver) Look behind the pistol grip. See the green circle behind that? Well that's where your shoulder stock should be attached to the main body. Not where you've put it That's all dude Here's a real one, showing how it travels along the length of the bottom of the receiver If you think about it, it can't attach where you have it, as that tube has a moving block inside it. It's meant to be free from obstruction. Which is why that little shape and tube is there to hold the shoulder stock safely Gotch ya, its all making sense now lol. My buddy has a few of these but I didn't realize how it sat lol. That "u" shaped piece of the stock is actually Styrene that I made to fit and I didnt catch that part lol. Thanks for the catch I will make that next time. So basically I have to make that tube part for the stock, add another T-rail on the right, add the bayonet piece, add the rear stock mount, move the folding stock up a bit, hollow the front scope and attach the correct wires to the counter body. Did I get it all? Thanks again guys my next one will be awesome Edited June 28, 2011 by Striker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john danter Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 Just use a biro and cut an oval out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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