Marv Posted May 5, 2011 Report Share Posted May 5, 2011 What is considered the correct length for use on the E-11, for each of the 6 runs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonnenschein Posted May 5, 2011 Report Share Posted May 5, 2011 Depends on the spacing of cooling holes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marv Posted May 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2011 What would be a good average length be then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK_LEPER Posted May 5, 2011 Report Share Posted May 5, 2011 I think about 8 inches, but don't have an E-11 with me at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt black Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 Hi John. Are you going to be using the plastic track or rubber? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 the T Tracks are different lengths based upon the position of the track: starting from the open row of holes and going over the top- starting at the left side open row with bayonet lug Track 1 6.5 inches from hole edge to hole edge- track length should be 7" Track 2 5 7/8 hole edge to hole edge-track should be 6 1/4" Track 3 5 3/4 hole edge to hole edge-track should be 6 3/8" (this measurement leaves the TOP hole open for the sight rail.) 6.5 inches from HTH with top hole filled 7 1/8" T Track 4 5 7/8 hole edge to hole edge-track should be 6 1/4" Track 5 6" hole edge to hole edge-track should be 6 1/2" Track 6 6" hole edge to hole edge-track should be 6 1/2" ending at the right side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naatsirhc[TK] Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 the T Tracks are different lengths based upon the position of the track: starting from the open row of holes and going over the top- starting at the left side open row with bayonet lug Track 1 6.5 inches from hole edge to hole edge- track length should be 7" Track 2 5 7/8 hole edge to hole edge-track should be 6 1/4" Track 3 5 3/4 hole edge to hole edge-track should be 6 3/8" (this measurement leaves the TOP hole open for the sight rail.) 6.5 inches from HTH with top hole filled 7 1/8" T Track 4 5 7/8 hole edge to hole edge-track should be 6 1/4" Track 5 6" hole edge to hole edge-track should be 6 1/2" Track 6 6" hole edge to hole edge-track should be 6 1/2" ending at the right side. Awsome Vern thanks for posting this! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 (edited) this is based upon leaving the top hole open for the sight rail. also showing the dimensions for filling the top last hole and mounting the sight rail differently than usual. see track 3 ** the most common way of mounting the sight rail was to mount it to the last top hole on the sterling. sterlings did not come with a sight rail, so a steel 3/4" flat bar was cut and notched to the front hole at the top of the sight rail. the sight rail was then either screwed through the rear sight block, or the sight rail was angled and it was riveted to the body in front of the rear sight. can anyone show a screen used blaster photo where the blaster sight rail is not mounted into the front hole? I can't wait for the blu ray release and the chance to get full screecaps of every TK blaster in all the films. T Tracks are not soft rubber. they represent cooling fins. they are hard plastic tracks. --------- Edited July 31, 2022 by gmrhodes13 link removed no longer working Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lichtbringer Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 T Tracks are not soft rubber. they represent cooling fins. they are hard plastic tracks. THAT makes absolutly no sense. For beeing used as grips it would be better to use rubber, for beeing cooling fins it would make more sense to use metal. Using plastic was just another "what do we have in the dumpster that we can glue on"-decision. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 (edited) perhaps someone can confirm these measurements, as I'm not the final word here. this is based upon the BBC template and it's measurements. been working well for me for every build so far. Edited May 6, 2011 by TK Bondservnt 2392 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 hello michel... the T Tracks on the screen used blasters are HARD plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 rubber is not used on any T Track on a screen used prop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 (edited) rubber is not used on any T Track on a screen used prop. ---------- Edited July 31, 2022 by gmrhodes13 link removed no longer working Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lichtbringer Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 (edited) On 5/6/2011 at 8:07 PM, TK Bondservnt 2392 said: hello michel... the T Tracks on the screen used blasters are HARD plastic. I know, that´s why i put the "glued what they found in the dumpster" in my post - they used what they had. But most of us don´t build what they used, we build no Sterling with glued parts for a movie. What we build is a replica of a E-11 Blaster. And then ... if you think they shall be for having better grip in battle, use rubber. If you think they are for cooling, use metal. Thats why there is metal t-track on my real one. ---------- Edited July 31, 2022 by gmrhodes13 link removed no longer working Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 (edited) wow close to the original. actually you can look at the film and see the difference. they didn't find hard plastic in a dumpster. the only thing wrong with your metal track is that the T shape does not fully bend into the hole. Edited May 6, 2011 by TK Bondservnt 2392 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamJ[501st] Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 (edited) I can't wait for the blu ray release and the chance to get full screecaps of every TK blaster in all the films. I can. I've got bits for enough E11s already, I think I just need another M19 and a sight off an Umarex, then I need to build them. But it's got to the point that for completeness I'm even thinking of doing the Tunisia-style one. I'm obsessed, help! I can also confirm those measurements you put up Vern, just measured a Sterling. Edited May 6, 2011 by SamJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonnenschein Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 Tell me... What's "Tunisia-style"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamJ[501st] Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 The one's the sandies had, where they cut the back off the body of the gun and replaced it with a metal cast. They did the same with the grip. The barrel was replaced with a wooden dowl and the trigger was removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lichtbringer Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 actually you can look at the film and see the difference. ??? Which difference is visible ... rubber/plastic or grips/cooling? they didn't find hard plastic in a dumpster. It was a demotic word for them having used what was available and looked cool - for sure they had nothing more in mind than "looks cool, i glue it". Just a job on a low budget movie. the only thing wrong with your metal track is that the T shape does not fully bend into the hole. I know, that´s cause metal bends harder and is not as easily flexing back as rubber/plastic. Inserting fully bend ends would mean to end up with a bend middle part, and i wanted it perfectly flat and straight. That is the price for having metal, and i payed it with a smile. (for the same reason the last hole couldn´t be used for a accurate frontmount of the scoperail) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lichtbringer Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 The one's the sandies had, where they cut the back off the body of the gun and replaced it with a metal cast. They did the same with the grip. The barrel was replaced with a wooden dowl and the trigger was removed. Yeah, that thing is but ugly as hell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marv Posted May 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 Whoa thanks for the measurements Vern, thats just what I needed. As to your question Rob I think I'll be looking to use hard plastic rather than rubber, simply because I think it looks nicer. Even though metal may not have been used I love what Michael has done. I think if had the skills and knew where you got that from I'd be tempted, the more metal on the blaster the more realistic it would be in an idealized state I think.----------- This is pretty much an idea of the profile of the stuff I'll be using. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted June 7, 2011 Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 sadly enough that profile is not correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geordietrooper Posted June 7, 2011 Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 (edited) ------------ Edited July 31, 2022 by gmrhodes13 link removed no longer working Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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