elkamino

All I can say is WOW!!!

I've used McMaster Carr's No. 8510K19 for the brow trim which is a touch shorter (about 2-3 millimeters) than the screen accurate which is 15mm in height (Seals Direct No. US 52 or Atlas Seal No. ATS 4). Atlas Seals in the UK has a great match for the movie accurate neck trim which is Stock No. ATW118 but I have not been able to get any response from them.

For armor my honest opinion is 0.093" ABS. If you're doing a helmet and your only choices were the three (0.125", 0.093", or 0.06") then 0.093" ABS would be the choice however it will take some "hand work" with a heat gun to really bring out the detail. I think 0.06" is way too flimsy and you should forget 0.125" for a helmet. Just keep in mind, like any other new venture, practice makes perfect. Unless you have a trained professional guiding you through, be prepared to make mistakes and learn from them. On my first run of armor I bet I went through about 3 full sheets (48" x 96") of ABS before I finally got the thickness, heating, etc right and could make pulls.

ABS is harder to form than Styrene (HIPS). But ABS also seems to hold the heat and stay pliable longer than styrene. The best results for forming a helmet are 0.08" HIPS or ABS. For bringing out the details, stick with the HIPS but ABS is far superior in durabilty. For armor I'd use 0.093" ABS. I've never done armor in HIPS but I am assuming 0.093" up to 0.125" would work depending on the piece. I've even use 0.125" ABS for the chest plate....very heavy duty. BTW, I've seen split decisions whether or not the haircell (textured side) of ABS telegraphs through. I have not noticed this to be a concern however my pulls do not come out glass smooth. I have not had the opportunity to work with smooth on smooth ABS. If your looking for sheet goods and don't mind the shipping costs here is a good link: Total Plastics, Inc. Otherwise I go through a local glazing contractor who makes large orders from time to time and does not charge me for shipping.

Hey Matt, Just a note. I use a 5 hp shop vac along with a vacuum chamber. The shop vac is good if you have to "work" the pull with a heat gun to better the details. The vacuum chamber gives the pull that first blast sucking everything down tight. Just an idea. If you like it, just be sure to install a check valve in the shop vac line so you don't lose the vacuum of the chamber through the shop vac. Sounds like your off to an awesome start. Keep us posted.

Prayers and thoughts go out to your wife, you, and family.

I'm thinking 14 too, but something about 48 seems to catch me too.

Nice work Luis...looks awesome.

Great feedback everyone. Not sure if I'm capable of actually doing anything like this. I would imagine the frames would need to be injection molded. What do you think of green mirrored lenses? I think the bubble lenses would be a bit much.

Didn't see anything like this and maybe I am not the sharpest tool in the shed but did anyone ever see anything on Stormtrooper inspired sunglasses? Sorry for the unrotated crude sketch, but just wanted to see what someone might think about this. Stormtrooper_Sunglasses.pdf

I'm not sure what you mean? I use the mannequin for a base then use plasticine clay to make the shape of the armor. You then have to pull a negative cast off the clay model. You can then make a positive or plug mold, sand smooth or shape to use in vacuum forming....in its simplest terms.

Look for the trooper section under this link: -------

He is aces...I second the motion. Need to be a 501st member though (if you live in the US)

I was able to buy an inexpensive mannequin off ebay and modify it to my body measurements. ----- With the money I would've on materials to make a body cast, it was more cost effective to use a dummy.

You and also check out the original"Set for Stun" Helmet here for a nice 360 degree view: -------------

Great job, I love watching your progress.

Absolutely beautiful work Mike (and informative). Great job.

The ears are actually ABS and a rather "soft" pull. The brow was meant to be lower but the back part of the tubes interfered with the angle of the nose to the dome (if you can understand that). To get close to the right slope and not shown and even crazier amount of dome I decided to raise the brow. As for the eyes, I am trying to keep a deep recess for the eyes. These have proved to be the most difficult part of the the pull and leaving them rather "bumpy". The helmet is centered around an ANH. Thank you for the input.

Please pardon all the inconsistencies in my soon to be TD armor and the prior noted work noted to be done to this helmet mold but here it is in action at the Walk for Autism, Mount Laurel, NJ on June 14, 2008.

Thank you, that means a lot. A little history on this...in my introductory thread (probably a year to a year and a half ago) I posted an earlier version of this work. It was very crude but was taking shape. The helmet is where my whole interest in vacuum forming started after finding Studio Creations Site. My infactuation for Star Wars and especially the Stormtroopers had been dormant for some 20 years until I came across a small blurb on day in September 2005 while taking a breather from work. It was Studio Creation's Site stating "make your own Stormtrooper". Ever since that day I have been working on this project. My only regret is not finding FISD until a year or more into the project. Here is another picture of the helmet nearing completion. It is ear marked for a TD. I seen now the eyes need to be thinned, the dome shaved down, the bulbus tubes shaved, brow lowered, ears moved back and thinned...anything else jumping out? More pics added: ----------

Thank you for the kind words. I hope to have it completed for an Autism Walk for this weekend so I'll post finished pics. Here is a link to the folder pictures of the evolution of this helmet and pictures utilizing other angles of this latest version. The darn tubes still bother me. -----------

Thought I'd show off an on going work in progress. Molds still need work (enlarge the tear drops, and narrow out the "tusks" or tubes for certain). This one is pulled using 0.080" HIPS. Let me know what you think, just go easy.

Nice work Pat. I've always wanted to mod the inside of one of my helmets. Can't wait to see yours in person.

I believe the MR CE helmet is ABS so it should work just fine. Always test a small area. As for sunglasses....I assume you are talking about the lenses and I would have to say No, it will not remove the scratches without causing more damage than good.

Great work man!!!