elkamino

I made some progress last night. I was actually under heating the plastic. As for judgment, I just eye up the sag for heating time. Right now I am testing using styrene which shouldn't pose as much of a problem as it is turning out to be. ABS and styrene are basically doing the same thing. I really think this is a engineering issue related to where and how large the relief vents are. It seems the smaller the relief vent the better the suction...I guess this relates to the equation PV=nRT.....man I should've paid more attention in class.

I have had good results using Goop when attaching vinyl to an ABS Snowtrooper Helmet. Be sure the Goop package says plastic and fabrics.

I am planning on using ABS so a filler would not work, however, the ABS does not show a dimple if I use up to a 3/32 drill bit. Not a bad suggestion Phil, thank you.

For assembling, I prefer IPS Weld on ABS cement (for ABS of course) Gotta have a Dremel Tin or Aviator Snips Utility Knife Sand paper - 100, 150, 200 grit (400 if you are painting surfaces) and sanding blocks for straight edges Tape both Duct and Painters Rivet Gun Drill/Screw Gun Clamps - Spring, bar, "c", magnets and weights work well too All six episodes of Star Wars on DVD to watch while assembling your armor Heat gun or hair dryer Extra ABS or Styrene Button/Heavy Duty Snap Tool Scissors Velcros, elastic, and all the other expendables

In the center where the eyes come together, they never fully define leaving only a shallow recess where they come to a point. Sorry for the poor picture.

For anyone into vacuum forming I need your help. I have a pretty awesome set up for vacuum forming however, I still have trouble pulling the eye sockets on a helmet. I've drilled relief holes but the center points above the nose keep coming out weak. I have since gone to using a positive mold to push the eyes in but requires a two person operation. BTW..when I go back and heat it with a heat gun during suction, the pull actually gets worse. Any engineers have input?

There's no guarantee an "after market" product will match. I can rarely find smooth on smooth ABS plastics and they cost about twice as much. I would have to say ABS colors from supplier to supplier have very little variation in color though. I go through my local glazing contractor to order sheet goods. I can usually get away without any shipping charges that way.

If you have one close by, it is much more cost effective to go to a fastener supplier than a large chain like Home Depot for finding rivets and washers. I have a few by me. Here is a link to one, Fastenal ------------- Much better variety of widths, lengths, alloys, etc.

I like using 0.093" ABS for armor. I also am experimenting using it for helmets, but it is no easy task for a beginner. I may have to go to 0.080" ABS or use 0.080" HIPS for helmets to get the proper details. I have used up to 0.125" ABS for chest plates since there is very little detail.

Fiberglass is the method of choice by most as is a spray on truck be liner. Most important is that these applications create heat. My suggestion would be a trial section on something other than a helmet. I'd also perform in a cold environment to minimize the heat build up.

You should also check out Mike's site Tk1536.com. He has put together a great comparison of different armors, accessories and information.

That is really coming out nice.

Somehow making armors is less profitable than excavation though.

Hey all. I work as a project manager and estimator for a decent sized construction management/general construction firm. We build and renovate the casinos in Atlantic City, NJ. I used to do excavation work on the side, but now spend most of my off time making molds and vacuum forming.

I've used Novus but I actually prefer Insulator's Wax....its more of a durable shine

Nice work Luis. Really looks awesome

Great video, I needed a laugh today.

I think that is the coolest thing anyone could do.

Thank you for all the kind words and input. It is a bit big in the chin area but not as bad as the picture shows it. The eyes also need to be bigger and sharper (having a heck of a time with sharp pulls on0.090" ABS). Here is a front shot compared to an FX.

Still needs refinement but its getting there. My own sculpt 4th revision, hence the C4. Go easy.

I can't say much about those pumps but 18 inches sounds a bit weak. I am using a Gast Oil less Vacuum Pump pulling 28 inches with a flow of 7 cfm. The pump itself is not enough flow so I use a 50 gallon propane tank as a vacuum chamber. Connected to my vaccum table I have dual inlets, one connected to the vacuum chamber, and the other to a 5hp shop vac. The side with the shop vac has a back-flow preventer and the vacuum chamber has a ball valve. I start the pull with the shop vac then give a quick shot from the vacuum chamber just to suck everything tight. Works like a charm.

Hey Steve. Yes, ABS can be painted but is not recommended. ABS is very tough and flexible and it would be likely to chip. If you must paint it be sure to wet sand with about 400 grit beforehand. Best of luck to you.

Looks great Tim! Will you be sportin' this helm at the Franklin Institute Where Science Meets Imagination Event?

Ouch...-10 now that's cold. In all honesty without looking "bulky" you're in for a cold troop. Problem with Armor is, when its hot...its hot and when its cold, its cold. In my opinion the only thing to do is separate the distance from your skin to the plastic and invest in the best undergarments as possible.

Yep, that's normal for me too. I even have trouble after trooping an hour or two that the helmet edge gets caught and locked onto on my shoulder strap when I turn my head.