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Tanasoo

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About Tanasoo

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    Matt
  1. Unfortunately, no... I've been busy as heck =\. Hopefully when those latches arrive I'll be able to get some time to finish it. Then comes the molds Making them on the CNC is going to be something else... The problem is mainly on the software end. It is surprisingly hard to get the program I used to make the models to talk with the program that converts models into machine code for the CNC... Sure I COULD just buy a $2k application that will work fine, but I might have to water the money tree a little more for that. <_< I do have an Idea for an entirely new machine that would sort of be like a stereo litho machine, only not $100k to buy and still grossly expensive to operate. But again the problem is working up enough time to make it Who knows maybe sometime soon I'll make it and turn the prop industry on it's head and make millions and millions of dollars For now, on planet earth, good luck on YOUR machine. If you need any help, don't hesitate to ask!
  2. Thanks for the link! I actually used the one piece ceramic spacers sold on infaredheaters.com. I think they were listed on the page with the nichrome wire ( they have a concave track running around the circumference) I got them to save a little money although I did have to buy more hardware. If I recall correctly, from the bottom of the oven up it was bolt, washer, cement board, washer, nut(that was all to hold it to the cement board, I don't think the washers were needed), nut(as spacer/ to hold insulator), washer, insulator, washer, nut. That was for the standard posts, they had no contact with the nichrome wire. For the hot posts that were shorted to the wire, I'm pretty sure I used bolt, washer, wire(10 or 8 ga?...), washer, nut (tight to keep wire in place), washer (again, this one and the next are not needed), cement board, washer, nut, nut, washer, insulator, washer, nichrome wire, washer, wing nut. Make sure the nichrome wire is tight between the washers or you won't have good enough contact. I don't think the ceramic insulators are needed on the hot posts, I just used them for spacing to keep them all the same height (and because I had leftovers) If you don't want to use them, just remove the washer under the ceramic insulator, and move the nut up to the correct height. I hope this is making sense, a picture would really come in handy... To attach the nichrome wire to the insulators, just stretch a piece until it is almost straight, and then cut it into lengths about the width of your hand when you are holding it (about 4 ", hand makes it faster to measure ) Just wrap them the heater coil and post and give a few twists with some needle nose pliers (or special twisting safety wire pliers if you have them laying around ) Then cut off the excess and fold in the meat hooks.
  3. Those latches look perfect. I've been looking for something like that, but I have been unable to find a place locally that sells them. Where did you get them? Be careful when you wire your oven. It looks like you are following James' design more or less and he wires it through the bolts used to support the ceramic spacers. be sure you don't short the hot bolts to the aluminum sheet or you won't be going anywhere. You might want to use a small diameter holesaw to remove the sheeting around where the posts will go.
  4. Cool! How come the one side is so much lower? I'm assuming that's for the oven, but it still seems low. How are you planning on attaching the two plastic holding pieces together? I'm still thinking how I'm going to do that myself (It's the last thing I need to do!) I want something quick, so I picked up a few latches at the hardware store, but I haven't had a chance to mess with it lately. Doesn't look like you'll need it, but let me know if you need anything
  5. I have to disagree with the nice try remark. I think it depends on what you are trying to make. If you are trying to make a screen accurate one and it comes out by some freak chance symmetrical, then I guess it would be a nice try. But if you are going for idealized, and t comes out squashed, then again, nice try. I am trying to make an idealized one. Maybe it's because I'm new and foolish, or because I like it... or both... I'm trying to make a suit for myself how I think the stormtrooper looks "in real life"(keep in mind that before I started this project I didn't even know they were a-symmetrical. So I thought they were symmetrical all along and that's how I see them in my mind's eye). I'm trying to make something to run around town it getting stared at, or paintball in for the heck of it. I'm not trying to make a prop exactly how it was in the movies. I also have nothing but respect for the people who do make the screen accurate ones. But I have to say that it is a little annoying when people talk down about the idealized ones like they are some sort of poor quality. Also keep in mind that this site's back ground is symmetrical
  6. Go to a welding store and see what ones work best for you. You probably want one on the low end if you want to see out of it. Although a storm trooper welding helmet would be pretty cool XD. You also might be able to look for replacement sunglasses lenses, if you can find ones big enough. They also might make tinted ski goggles.
  7. No response from Mike... I'm going to go ahead and get some .06 HIPS, and some .06 ABS. I'll see if the haircell shows through. The .125 HIPS is about $8 a sheet, so I don't think I'll be getting any of that.
  8. I want one of those!!! Where did you see them? I'm glad this is acceptable. I think I'm in the same boat, although a bit more heavy (6'2 160) It will be interesting once I make mine to see how it fits. One of my friends wants me to make him a set, but he it 6'11, and about 150 I'd say THAT would be an interesting trooper...
  9. Those would be good, if you could fit them. The size of the speaker is probably just about the max OD, so I'd say 40-50mm (about 1.5-1.95") You might be ale to fit that... You probably also don't want to modify the case too much (on the inside), or you will start altering the sound. It sounds like they might have a mini amp in them due to the fact of the internal battery. Speaking of that, if you don't have a USB hook up in your helmet you can just use any 5V power source you have (like toning down two AA cells connected for 7V) I'm pretty sure the two outside pads on a USB are power, but you should check to be sure.
  10. =x I stand corrected. I think I got that from Starwarshelmets.com but I don't know if that's where it originated. I always thought it was kind of funny that a mold would collapse <_< I'm not sure how they could sculpt something that off... Maybe it was intentional Maybe someone should ask the original sculpter...
  11. Exactly. If the artists wanted it to be a-symmetrical, it would be. In fact if the artists wanted to, they could just make a 3d scan of the armor, and with today's technology (not the tech from a few years back) you would be hard pressed to tell the difference As for the organic real world feel point. the military helmets made today are symmetrical, wouldn't they be able to be with starwars tech? We are talking about helmets here, not faces. Imagine how all this would be if the molds had not collapsed, and the screen used helmets turned out symmetrical I can also guarantee that if the movies were made today, the helmets would be symmetrical. Here is how I see it. If you want to make storm trooper armor, they it should be symmetrical. If you want to replicate the storm trooper armor prop, they make a-symmetrical. Both will probably take the same skill and dedication to make. And both, if well done, should deserve the same amount of credit.
  12. Well, I agree with Gino. And I think controlled sloppyness is a good term. The only way I can see myself ever getting a screen accurate piece, would be just to have a screen accurate one... I might be run out of here for saying this, but being a CG artist myself, I love the CG in the newer movies. It is one of the main reasons that I go to a movie nowadays is to see the CG in them. So I may be a little bit biased
  13. I like the symmetrical ones better. Not only because that's what I'm working on, but also because I like things to be precise. My father is a machinist, and always talks about holding tolerances to the thousandth of an inch, and it has rubbed off on me. I pick up on tiny details, and a-symmetries usually bother me. Like when you get an action figure and the gun is all wonky. That being said, I respect all you people that put your effort into making screen accurate armor, simply because of all the hand work it takes. It would take me much longer to model an a-symmetrical helmet and machine that (fortunately, I like the symmetrical ones!) Although I do have to question some of the standards. A lot of the... not flaws, let's say "character... of the screen helmets were due to, let's face it, accidents. After all I don't think they started the sculpt with an a-symmetrical helmet in mind, and I don't think they were planning on the molds collapsing. Now let's say I was going to submit a helmet for judging... If I was to make my helmet a-symmetrical (some might say a flaw, others, a feature), what is to make that good, when say, a finger print of glue on the eye, or in the paint... or wobbly trimmed plastic would be bad? I'm sure there is some wobbly trimmings on some of the screen helmets, but if I was to do that, I'm sure people would think I was bad at trimming (that is, unless I exactly replicated the bad trimming of the screen helmet and show pictures of both... ) I hope I'm making some sense here... Any way points to both sides for a good helmet!
  14. Thanks for the info, that helps a ton! Now THIS is too bad! The site no longer exists, but I sent the guy an email... No response yet.
  15. Well, I'm pretty much finished with the vac table. I built0 a little table for the forming surface that holds it about 6.5" above whatever it is setting. I also cut the legs on it so it will stack on top of the oven when it is not in use. I still haven't ordered the plastic yet. Perhaps I should go with Styrene? You say 1/6" as "thin" but most places recommend .08 - .09. I can get it in .06 and .125. If you can get fine detail in 1/6 (.16) then .125 should be fine, right? I also plan on making some paintball stuff, do you think a paintball impact will break .125 or .06? I also just found out that the dealer I was looking at getting it from only sells haircell abs...
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