troopermaster

Put them back on...NOW! Seriously, all armour have the straps there. You just don't see them on the guys on the steps because their arms are not connected to anything and are lower than the bells so you can't see them.

It could be the strap or just the inside of the shoulder bell. Also, the lower strap on the bell is definitely there. All Stormtrooper armour from every film has those straps.

Considering the ESB suits were reused from ANH, I would imagine they had the same white shoulder straps. Maybe someone is getting confused with the MKII armour but that didn't have any strapping on the shoulder. Please show proof of an ESB with black shoulder straps.

The shape is all wrong at the back. They should not be bent inwards like that and the holes are drilled too far from the ends, assuming you want to keep them like the originals.

I believe Patrick is refering to the opposite ends of the shoulder straps that go onto your back plates. The fronts are glued to your chest plate - that is a given - but the backs 'should' be tied with the elastic tethers as they were in ANH. But, because the tethers were probably lost after ANH was filmed or when the armour was refurbished, we don't see any in ESB and the majority of the straps were taped down. I would go with the elastic tethers personally. You could go on and on about small details the armour should have when most kits don't them, so why bother so much about the shoulder straps? Just my 2p's worth

I have plenty of the 1.5mm flat aluminium strips already cut to size that just need bending if you want a pair?

This is typical of GF/AP armour since it has a duplicate outer right/inner left which makes the left side tighter than the right. The moulded in joining strips are positioned in such a way that, when fitted with correct parts, fit much better than having duplicate parts. Just try not tightening the left shin so tightly and I am sure it will feel and sit much better.

That doesn't surprise me. There is no reason to have your straps snapped inside your bells. It is much better to simply glue the straps directly to the plastic and only have one snap on the end of your top strap to connect under your shoulder strap.

I was about to say the same thing on the flat joining edges. Only leave them bigger if you need more room and then use a wider joining strip to cover as much as the flat edge as possible. E6000 is very forgiving. You will be able to pry off the joining strips and rub off the E6000 from the ABS and trim the forearm edge if you have room to spare. Otherwise, leave them as they are. They will not affect any awards. The S trim slips on easily. Just use the thinner slot in the S and work it around the base of your helmet. When you come to trim it, leave about 10mm over so it looks too long and force it it place. This will make it say on with no adhesive. If 10mm is too much then just snip a little bit off until you get it to stay on without kinking anywhere.

If you are going to have to shim your armour then I think it should look like it is shimmed and not try and hide it. I think the armour below should be acceptable but maybe just rivet the shim to the kidney so you only extend one part of the armour. ------------- You are never going to hide the shim no matter how good you try, so why not make it part of the armour? The real stunt suits had extra rivets down one side so I don't see what the problem is. ------------ You will always have guys who are too big for armour, so my advice is make it easy on them and simply pop rivet a shim to the kidney to close up the gap and have done with it

Try here (scroll down) http://www.whitearmo..._20#entry235250

I have used #48 Mediterranean Blue in the past, but usually I use #14 French Blue, #5 Ad Grey, and #85 Coal Black on my helmet paint jobs.

Agreed!

You need to trim more off the wrist. You don't want any return edge at all, not even on the detail strip with the indents. For the joining strips, go for 15-17mm for the arms and 20-25mm on the legs.

These are RS recasts same as MFX.

Movie FX armour?

I can sit down in my armour quite easily, though it isn't very comfortable. Having the chest choking me is no fun, but it was the same for the actors on screen too so it's all good

The long side will be exposed and that is what you want for an accurate build

First thing to do is trim away more of the return edges on your biceps. You really don't want any on the bottom and a small amount on the tops. Line them up on the bottom edges and don't worry about the tops. Overlap the two parts of the bicep so they feel as comfortable as possible. You don't want them tight or too loose, just big enough so that you can bend your arm comfortably. When you add the joining strips to any parts, I find it best (screen accurate) to make the strips the same length as the shorter part rather than trying to hide any mismatch. Remember to trim the corners off the joining strips. Trim all of the return edge away from your wrist and and inner half of your forearms. Only leave a minimal amount of return edge on the outer elbow. Make the curve on the inner elbow deeper if they feel too long. Just trim about 1/4" max and then glue your straps. Any further adjustments can be made by trimming the wrist area but wait until you are suited up before you trim unneccesarily.

That is good to hear. These are simply costumes to wear for fun. No need to have anything functional on them at all. And here is an original.... Let's move on now shall we? Keep up the good work Tony

I wouldn't recommend heating the pipe. If you change the inner diameter of the pipe you will have a hard time getting the end cap to fit.

The tubes that are supplied with my kits are cut to the same length as original canisters. Anything else you are comparing it to is wrong.

The tube you got from me is the correct length. If you cut it down it will be too small. Why do you think it is too long? What are you comparing it to? Please enlighten me.

The marks on the RS belt are a bad idea. Their original belt is the only one to have the Imperial Gunners holster oddly attached and following the marks are making you put the straps in the wrong place. Anyone who is not familair with original armour will instinctively follow the marks as a guide and end up attaching the holster incorrectly.

Everything is coming along great. Keep up the good work