troopermaster

Do not cut them down any more. They will feel fine once you have them strapped up to your bicep armour. The forearms should be loose anyway and not snug, so they look ready to be glued together now

If you have not already glued the lenses in, you could do with trimming away more flashing inside the eye sockets. The ROTJ helmets hardly had any flashing left in them.

I understand the 'rules' on here but they do not really apply to my way of thinking. The notches are different sizes on each side and they only appear on more accurate kits. I feel if someone is too big for the their armour then it looks much better to simply extend the part above the notch. If your armour does not have a notch then simply make a shim that starts 22mm above the lower edge of your kidney plate. It is kind of one of those things that does not really concern me since my kits come with the notches but I do not like to see others stressing out over something that is minor. If your kit does not have the notch then do not worry about it since it probably does not have a lot of other details it should have.

Once you have made your trim lines you can cut the plastic with scissors. The joints do not need to be 100% exact since they get covered with the strips, but you will be fine using scissors. I have never used a belt sander on armour, no need. Seems a bit extreme to me.

Why would he 'need' to do that? Do you not understand the concept of the notches on the kidney plate? If you need to shim your waist then this is the correct way to do it, although they look better glued in from the inside rather than the outside. The shim should come from above the notch as it is an extension of the kidney and the but plate line up with the notch.

Only loosen the wrist if you have to. You do not want to make it too hard to get your hands through but it is usually a squeeze. I cannot see if you are using the correct inner half of the left bicep but you definitely have the correct outer half. It is common for none of the parts to match up exactly so do not worry too much. Things get thrown off even more when thinner people have to trim parts down, but this is quite normal. The return edge on all of the limbs should be minimal. I noticed that Anovos has made them huge and they really are not necessary, so just keep a slight edge. If you need to make the thighs (or any other parts wider) trim the front joints wider. I see people stressing over how the joining strips should be 20mm and will I get approved if they are 21mm (which is ridiculous) so use 25mm if you need to add a bit of extra girth or even wider. You can also use a wedge shaped strip in the back if you need even more room, but that is a last resort.

Keep the thighs as loose as possible. They should slide freely up and down your leg without any resistance. The wrist should be big enough to get your bare hand through. Do not worry if you think they look too big. Once you have your gloves on and holding your blaster, they will be fine. Keep the forearms loos too. They will be hanging from your biceps so they do not need to be snug - none of the limbs do. In your photo showing your left arm, you have the left bicep but right forearm

I have a few if you cannot get one.

I take it you used the score and snap method? I have seen a lot of these slips lately. Score and snap is definitely an advanced trimming technique and not recommended for beginners. Heavy duty snips or curved Lexan scissors give much more control over your cuts and even though there is more sanding or clean up, at least you do not have any damage to your armour.

I believe the reason it is on the lower right thigh is to hide the bad mismatch of the thigh halves. The test photos show the larger ammo belt on the thigh so the prop department must have realised it was too big and made a smaller version. The sniper knee plate was probably an afterthought too, like the drop boxes.

Looking at your photos I would say the left shin has the two outer halves and the right shin has the two inner halves. Kind of hard to tell exactly because they do not have the original inner halves to begin with (only the modified outers as inners).

The reason this is happening is because Anovos has labelled the parts incorrectly. They have two outer halves on one leg and two inner halves on the other which is causing the problem.

Not ideally. The brow trim is 15mm tall and the neck is about 10mm tall. The trim has a 2mm channel gap on one side and a 4mm channel gap on the other. The trim is mounted on the helmet using the 2mm gap and the thicker side is on the inside. It was mounted the opposite way on ROTJ helmets.

Not sure what that link is supposed to show? I have a rubbing of neck trim off an original helmet and my old trim was a perfect match. I still have a short piece of this trim but it is no longer produced, so I get the closest trim possible. I could get a roll made that is a perfect match to the original trim but it would be costly.

What is the actual issue with the trim anyway? The profile looks very good but I am not sure about the size since I have not seen one of these helmets personally.

Not helpful? I pointed out that the Anovos trim is the more accurate of the bunch. The OP was talking about replacing it with something less accurate. And no, my trim is not the most accurate, but it is close. I would say the Anovos is better in shape than mine. The original trim is a square shaped 'S' profile and has no rounded edges, but feel free to use whichever you want

If you want the exact rivets used, the are brass bifurcated rivets with 6mm legs and matching brass M4 washers. I have lots available if anyone wants them?

I would say this is the promo helmet. Teeth and vocoder has been repainted but the tube stripes look to be identical.

You want everything to be loose on your body so it can move freely as you move. Having part snug fitting will make them chafe and restrict movement. The parts should be able to slide up and down your arms and legs with no resistance.

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Correct. Anovos have deepened the eye sockets and trimmed them in an odd way. I simply illustrated a better way to trim them and it would not affect the actual shape of the eye frames in any way. The bump on the eye is only minor so no need to exaggerate it by leaving extra material in the socket.

Yes, they are down half way down the trooper isle, you cannot miss them Sorry, could not resist Try your armour supplier for a replacement.

Maybe for the 501st but you use the term 'accuracy' very loosely. You are either accurate (ANH strapping brackets) or you are not. There is no in between

Do you mean shoulder straps or shoulder bells?

I would trim the eyes out a lot more like this: