NoVATie

Would some velcro on the inner edges of the outer drop box and outer edges of the inner be secure enough? Might be hard to open it though to access what you put inside unless you make a pull tab or something.

It's FX. When bought new the FX kits can fit bigger people, but I think it would be hard to re-do the suit especially with pieces that have already been glued, cut, and sanded to fit someone else. For the asking price you can get a more movie-accurate suit and build it to fit you

Good luck! Going for ANH or ESB?

Armor maker: FX Height: 6' Weight: 175-180 Chest: 42" Abs: xx did you use shims? About 1" between chest and back plate because I didn't want to heat the plastic (suit) to make it fit tighter Waist: 32" Thighs: 25" did you use shims? No shims. Shins: 16" no shims, used a cover strip in the back to butt the edges of the shin pieces together since I couldn't overlap them. Biceps: 14" did you use shims? No shims. Forearm: 11.5" at biggest did you use shims? No shims but I could use about 0.5" at the overlap Any other mod? I have some strategically placed pieces of foam inside the shin and thigh pieces to keep them from twisting.

Pretty misleading to have the SDS photos with it.

Looking forward to see it built Brian . I didn't know the kit came with the ESB and cheesegrater hand plates, pretty cool.

"Separate chin part!" The guy doesn't even know what parts of his product are called

Looks good man. The movie ears were pretty rough so you don't need to worry about it. Good work

I wear mine over my UA shirt so the logo doesn't show . If you sew enough "bib" onto the neckseal, it will stay down under your chest armor and not bunch up out the back. My helmet sits pretty low on me though so you don't see much of the neck seal anyway.

Sweet Revan

Happy to join

Most people use the Hasbro blaster modified with a resin parts kit. Look for "Doopydoos". I think that route runs about $20 for the blaster, $30 for the resin kit. You can also buy premade blasters, or make your own from PVC pipe. There is a lot of information on all options here on the forums.

The E6000 seems to hold up just fine with trooping and it dries clear which is a huge plus if you put too much on and need to scrape it off. For my next suit I'll definitely use E6000 on the whole thing.

The stuff they have on the site looks fine, but you could source the components cheaper elsewhere, or make them yourself (neckseal). I use underarmour and cheap no-name versions are fine. They might be even better since you don't have to worry about the size tag like on the back of the UA tops. Most people use nomex flight gloves or screen-accurate black rubber chemical gloves. The nomex gloves can be had for about $10 and I imagine the rubber ones are about the same. My 2 cents? I'd keep shopping around

Just part of the deal. I don't smell them while trooping, just when I open that box

AM is the new version of FX. ATA is another armor maker that is more screen-accurate. Both AM and FX armor is 501st acceptable, as is ATA. Search around on the forum, there are plenty of build threads with all types of armor for you to look at.

Very cool

Looks great

Did they have to use the Rubies helmet?

Looking good! Great job on the weathering

Beautiful work as usual Rolf

Really good work! The ear gap is fine, they were a lot worse in the movies and you've contoured it well. I think the brow is fine. I don't like the high brow of the move-along trooper, and the hero isn't really my style either. I think right in between gives the helmet a sinister look when all is said and done

Maybe try pepakura? They use it to make the halo helmets. http://405th.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1648

Great photoshopped pics

Looking good!