CallMeMrTibbles

On the advice of my UKG armourer I've removed some of the paint Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk

Before I paint the grey buttons, have I painted the blue ok for centurian? Ta

That's great, thanks [emoji106]. Just found the trooper bay video too, should be good to go for the first shin tonight Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk

Possibly going to fit bra hook closures to one of my shins tonight. Are there correct measurements for holes and hook placements to be screen accurate? (And yes, my sewing improved at the end!) Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk

I'm going for centurian too, albeit with an esb stunt build. I had to paint the inside of my hovi tips white, and also the outer rim (but in a weathered way). See attached pics (my lid, and screen used). Can someone with more knowledge say if its also required for an anh hero helmet? Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk

Morning all, Another test torso fitting, but with the undersuit. Things that need sorting out. Back piece: Shorten the shoulder tabs, and bend them in using a hot (not too hot) hair dryer. Would need to trim the bottom at the sides where it overlaps the sides of the kidney plate. What I think it actually needs is replacing with the standard size back plate (currently xl) Butt: Heat the sides and bend in, as when viewed from the front they stick out and create a gap. Again, proper solution is to get the standard size part (currently xl), as aside from the gap it feels baggy all over, and I think when the crotch strap is fitted it will pull out of line. Chest: Scoop out the neck line just a little. It feels like it's sitting in the right place, but is a little uncomfortable in how much it pushes against my throat (and that's without the added thickness of the neck seal, which I don't have yet). Everything else feels OK. Thoughts? (Edit: sent Ross at RWA these pics and after a chat the back and butt in standard size have just been ordered) (Also, excuse the accidental nazi salutes [emoji37]) Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk

Ah, OK. I'd only heard don't have it in a cold room. Cool. Thanks Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk

Thanks Joseph. I'm a tall fella (6'4") so thought ordering the tall back would be right for me, but it just doesn't feel right, and what you're saying makes a lot of sense. Thanks [emoji106] Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk

I added an internal strip there too for the same reason. Thanks for all of this. Really appreciated [emoji106] Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk

Thanks for this. I always leave for 24 hours in the warmest room in the house, but this is the first time anyone has said to me about sanding or scoring the surfaces (obvious now you say it!). I have armour from RWA in UK, and he doesn't mentioned it in his videos. Think that's going to be the trick. Now I'm worried about the other pieces I've already glued [emoji31] (guess they're not a problem till they're a problem [emoji1696]). I have some gorilla glue clear contact adhesive too. Do you think that might be a better idea given that the shin needs to be flexed more than other parts to take it on and off? Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk

Following on from 'off-centre-coverstrip-gate', the e6000 plus didn't hold (even with an internal coverstrip), so I've got to re do it anyway! [emoji2959] Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk

You don't know how much of a relief it is to hear that!. Thank you [emoji120] Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk

About 10 hours in from applying glue, and just noticed that the bottom of one of my cover strips is off centre at the bottom [emoji31] I'm guessing it's best to just rip off and do it again (kinda answering my own question here I think) (I was going to sand off to the coverstrip with my dremel anyway, so the gap wouldn't be an issue) Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk

Like it [emoji106] Thanks for this Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk

I have some short strips of metal to act as thin spacers, but not sure if using metal reduces their effective strength(?) Edit: Geek warning Seems how metal spacers affect magnetism is complicated, but looks like thin metal spacers reduce the magnetic attraction (I think). Will switch to plastic spacers. https://www.kjmagnetics.com/blog.asp?p=block-or-extend 2nd edit: Does 'feel' like using plastic spacers allows a stronger pull than metal spacers

Today's lesson is that I need more magnets and I need smaller diameter magnets that fit in the molding behind the cover strips

Thanks. Will do [emoji106] Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk

I'm thinking I may need to replace the xl butt and back with standard size [emoji848] Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk

So, here's my clearance photos, yeah? [emoji1] How it feels and fits... To have the bottom of the chest just above the large button plate means either the top of the chest is up against my neck or the cod feels too low. Can get top of the sides of kidney and ab to line up, but as I'm wearing it in these pics it feels like it's all hanging too low (saggy but plate), but raising it all up makes the chest push into my neck and the back stands even further off my body. Should the butt and cod be quite fitted? Suggestions? Keep getting overlap at back/kidney and kidney/butt junctions, so thinking of adding 4 extra straps at the far sides (one at each side at each junction) to try and hold them in place. In the pic it looks like the kidney section is sitting at an angle, but the raised centre section moulding is actually at a slight angle. Is that a screen accurate 'feature'? To have the back section sitting flatter against my back kicks out the bottom of that section and makes it overlap. Not sure how to fix that (not sure if extra straps will necessarily help [emoji848]). Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk

Popper tabs gluing on chest and ab, and elastic straps made and fitted for back/kidney/butt End caps glued to td yesterday. Today gluing control panel and Dropbox inners in place. Finally, making a start on my first limb assemblies; the biceps. Watched Ross's video and the RS propmasters videos about this. Links below... One thing the RS prop video shows which the RWA video doesn't is to make sure to line up the bottom edge of both bicep halves (top edge is all over the place and mostly hidden by shoulder bell anyway?). Did this throughout and got a better fit quicker (I'm not following the RS prop measurements). Following the same process for the left bicep, but won't do any cutting until I hear back from my UKG armourer, just in case! (he's gotta sign me off after all) [emoji16][emoji106] Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk

I read somewhere recently... "You can never have too many clamps" I, however, have too few or I'd be doing the chest and ab too [emoji31] (The magnets are 'weakened' using plastic spacers on the inside) Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk

Looking forward to following this. Also, good work on the weight loss [emoji898] I've been trying to lose too, and finally getting the point where I'm happy to trim the armour to my waistline [emoji23] Keep at it, we're routing for you! Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk

Thanks buddy! Really appreciate you saying that. Yeah, the build quality of that older, screen used stuff is really something else, eh!? I've seen a couple of examples of proper replica helmets, with all the dings and chipped paint, but not seen a true 'warts and all' replica full outfit. Not sure I'd want to tackle that though! Good luck with your build! I'm about the try and find a link to your wip thread, as I'm looking for all the tips and inspiration around. Stay safe [emoji106] Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk

Thanks Joseph [emoji106] Realised I'd completely forgotten to do the handguards and bottom of thighs, so doing those now, and will attack the forearms too [emoji16] Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk

Everything trimmed ready for taping on and trimming to fit. (except the bottom of the thighs and the hand guards, which I only realised when laying it all out [emoji2357]) Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk