fishgoh0nk

I spent about 16 hours matching Wicked / Createx airbrush paint for airbrush for ANOVOS ABS, it's almost perfect, but the shades vary at volume, so different volumes have a slightly different formula. If you're willing to undertake the process, make sure you have several light spectrums, (warm, blues, natural) on hand to verify the match.

I'm in! Thanks for all the help! For L2/L3, I updated the thermal detonator with new aluminum strips and smaller screws. How does this look? New vs Old, glad I ordered extra aluminum, bending them was a PITA My only fear is that the clips are too tall - I went by bondservant's instructions and figured I wanted the TD to sit in the middle of the belt rather than at the top. Is this OK? It's actually sitting a little below the equator, I can always role the TD's J bend upwards for a higher ride?

Got approved last week, requesting status update for 501st Stormtrooper TK-83751 reporting in! https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=33776

I did not, but it's probably because the headphones I'm using aren't loud enough. They're a $6.99 pair from Amazon by KOSS. In my initial testing I didn't account for that, I was using wired ear buds and had my fingers crossed regarding hearing assist feedback. My voice amplifier for the Aker did have feedback with the Hovi speakers, which I fixed with a -54dB noise canceling mic soldered into a ModMic 3 boom. -50dB noise canceling at mid line volume (mod mics have inline adjustment) gave me feedback from the Hovi speakers. Now I"m running -54dB at max line volume, but I basically have to touch the mic with my lips with no mic foam to get a pickup.

Haven't trooped with it yet - I only completed the hearing assist installation 2 days ago, in fact, I just completed the entire electronics set up 2 days ago. but I've been vehemently been walking around the house with it. With fans on, the hearing assist helps significantly with detecting my wife trying to talk to me. If I really want to shut her out, I'd just turn it off I could hear better if I wasn't using open air walkman style headphones (in ear or ear buds). In ear buds would be a lot louder and would help me attenuate the audio better, but I prefer the hands free approach so I don't have to shove ear buds in my head before plopping on the bucket. I've been taking off and putting back on the bucket and the earphones I'm currently using stay stationary. It's a rare occasion that the phones fold the top of my ear down, I just reach in and fix it. Here's one more photo of the grommet (old grommet sliced in half to reduce profile height, adheres to the velcro strip)

If you're curious, I'm probably one of the few people that drilled holes in the helmet to fit the mics. I drilled a 3/4 1/2 inch hole and used a grommet to secure the mic to the inner helmet wall. After posting here and adding insulation/baffles, the mics now reside inside the ear piece, outside of the inner helmet to avoid fan vibration, so I have fans mounted on the cheeks. Here are some pictures, albeit out of date. Planning, using grommets (again, not current method, mic installed with grommet) I figured it's best to show and tell - I took apart my current ear set up to show Foam padding is crucial between mic and ear, cut the vibration sounds by 25% This is what sits in the ear Used hand drills to drill out the ear ports along the black stripe. Per recommendation a superfine permanent marker/sharpie works good to black out the holes.

Fixed the issue - the microphones that come with the SHA works great once I added foam padding between the mic and helmet walls to prevent excessive vibration. I also created some baffles to isolate the microphones from the rest of the cavity, so there's minimal pressure loss/increase from ports other than the three I drill in the ears. So I have Helmet | Velcro (for internal speakers) | ( Rubber Grommet) | Foam | microphone enclosure | Foam around the enclosure | ears | 3x 1mm holes drilled I think after added the extra padding, the taper around the ears are no longer satisfactory, I ordered some new ears from trooper bay which I will install - I'll take some pictures of what I've done when I do that. Keep an eye out

Last week I added a Raspberry Pi to the electronics for soundboard options. Main cable stem is still a mess, but I guess I'll worry about that after I do an actual troop.

Thanks for the info - I think the fact the mics are omnidirectional and not encapsulated, the pressure and vibrations can't be helped by just glue/padding. I created a panel to isolate the microphones in the ears. Unfortunately the mics that come with the kit are a little too tall for this application - and I think the SNR is a little too low. I'm planning on modding them with unidirection/cardioids with a higher SNR and lower sensitivity. I don't have a reference or baseline for the current ones, @ukswrathwould you be willing to share the specs of the mics? If not public, maybe PM?

Hey Tony, I was testing the SHA with fans, but the mics appear to pick up a lot of inner helmet noise, and overwhelms the external sounds at distance (5-10ft). Would you recommend any sealings, padding around the mics to reduce the pickup? I have them installed at the ears, 3 holes drilled at the black ear stripe.

Moved the button - it's been there for 2 years and I didn't have the means to move it. Now I do and it wasn't so bad. The ABS paste definitely needs to be applied in layers. One big glob yielded bubbles and dark spot.... which I had to paint. I actually used drywall patch to fill up some of it.. A few more hours of dry and sand might have made it completely smooth... but overall I'm happy with it

AMAZING! I really enjoyed the posts, but I was a little disappointed getting to the end of the thread and there were no final photos! How did the story turn out??

Me too! Though I would be a little disappointed if we find out shelling 550 bucks wouldn't get ANH approval lol. Glad I'm an avid airsoft collector, it's a nice display piece.

Thanks Justin! This makes the order of events much more comprehensive to me. I already emailed the GML on Sunday, holding tight and hopeful Question about the blaster - I see that the CRLs indicate that the RO blaster can be based off the S&T airsoft, but I don't see anything that disqualifies the same replica being used for L2/L3 ANH? If anything, I can spot that the grips are edged differently between RO and ANH; am I reading wrong?

Thanks - Another post regarding belt height had indicated it shouldn't be TOO high, some wear the top of the belt covering half the lower button. How high is too high? https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26314-anh-stunt-belt-placement/ I have a couple of routes, let me run them by you: 1. Move the rivets on the ab plate (undo, patch, reinstall 5mm higher) 2. Move the rivets on the belt (pop buttons, cut rivets, punch new holes install new rivets, reinstall button) I kind of prefer moving the belt rivets, just less potential for error. Not really liking the velcro, I like the ab plate to be clean when the belt comes off haha

I wonder if I can alleviate this by how I "wear" the belt. The pop rivets alignment on both the belt and ab plate were done with a plumb/parallel angle in mind, Maybe that's why in photos taken from top down angles the belt might seem low. Perhaps I can wear the belt a bit looser or lower to achieve the desired look:

Thanks Swede! I think you missed a word in your sentence regarding belt. Come "up"/"down" a tad?

Thank you! Thank you all for the assistance. I definitely would've struggled a lot more had it not been for this community.

I just moved the snap on the right ab - it was off center because I trimmed the ab plate after I drilled and installed the snap, hence it being not far enough from the edge. After the abs reinforcement on the rear dries, I'll fill up the hole with paste and sand/polish. Any additional things my armor would need for L3? Would this same forum section be usable for L3 pre-approval? Would I create a new post, but for L3 and include the layout from the Centurion photo checklist?

Reshot with some placement of the shoulder bells rolled forward Changed out to the v1 elastic loop. Are these an improvement?

Thanks and thanks for the feedback! Funny thing about the butt plate, I actually loosened the butt-plate with looser elastic, because what was happening was scrunching, where the butt plate was riding high and overlapping the belt. I devised an additional butt sinching belt, maybe I can just make an inbetweener, between sizes of the original and extended straps. Not sure how much closer to the front I can position the shoulder bell snap any closer to the front. I think to actually minimize the gap, the bell would have to be wide enough to cover my deltoid AND pectoral muscles. Are there any armor makers that have larger bells?

Name:. James W. Future Outpost: Southern California Garrison Maker: ANOVOS Helmet maker: ANOVOS Belt maker: TKittell (Imperial Issue) Neck seal maker: ANOVOS Boot maker: Imperial Boots Blaster maker: S&T (airsoft) with ebay T-tracks and m38 scope Gasket maker: ANOVOS Height, weight: 5'11 - 200lbs Type: ANH Stunt Special Thanks: @justjoseph63@ukswrath@TKSpartan@gmrhodes13@kman@TheSwede@CableGuy Note: L3 says minimal gap - should I order larger shoulder bells? I think my chest (pectorals) won't allow for sub-inch gap with the current bells. L3 - Slotted ear screws, vocoder repaint, L3 - White Rivets L3 - Single snap unpainted L3 - 45degree ammo belt corners L3 - Belt ammo pack rear enclosed L3 - T-Detonator using slotted pan screws L3 - 2 piece lenses L3 - Silicone handguards Ideally I would want to go to L3; but not sure what the approval format/order would be for the local garrison. Thanks!

Stuck at a cross roads guys - I've seen a mobility cut that I thought looked pretty good a while back for Centurion approval (right/blue); but the more I examine, screen accuracy is definitely left/green and seems to fit more with the SW era/universe/theme. Any thoughts or guidelines I should be aware of? I'm debating but I think I need some community feedback to push me over to one or another.

PM and postage sent. Tin snips? Oh snap, that's what you use to cut them? I used exacto scoring and snapping. I guess with all polycarb and plastic optical lenses, a coating is required for resistance to scratching/scuffs - wonder if there's a DIY coating option... I guess the blurry one will be an experimental polish/coating specimen, I'll do some research and experimentation

Even for a few minutes, helmet fan is life. Had to get my fans in - I got some mounts and finally decided the best place was to utilize the speaker nut and screws from @ukswrath's TK speakers. Decently sturdy, hopefully I don't get any structural integrity problems at HOVIs from burdening the battery. Since I'm here, might as well post the progress of the helmet. Any one know of a good way to polish the lenses? I made the mistake of even trying; now one's slightly blurrier than the other. Car detailing polish of 4500 grit isn't cutting it (see what I did there?).