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TheRascalKing

Imperial Attaché[TK]
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Posts posted by TheRascalKing

  1. On 6/8/2023 at 8:38 AM, TheRascalKing said:

    Double up on your magnets and place them as close as they can get, staggering them slightly and alternating polarities as you place them so they want to push apart, not pull together. The more pressure you have on the strip, the more flush it's going to lay. Having inner cover strips glued in first will also make this WAY easier to allow for minimal gaps, as the coverstrip becomes more cosmetic than structural. I usually scuff my pieces before gluing with E6000, so watch when you scuff under the strip and ensure the part is level there also.

     

    Relevant recent pic. Use hella magnets.

     

    Q9HJLjG.jpg

     

    I also recommend sanding your edges on a belt sander, with a sanding block/emory board, and/or sheet of sandpaper clamped to a flat surface. The cleaner and straighter your edges are, the easier the gluing process will be. Utilizing underside coverstrips first makes the build so much easier, if longer with E6000 by creating a little shelf you glue the other half to. It's worth it, but use every magnet that you can afford and work slow to get the best results.

    • Like 2
  2. wP2hx6P.jpg

     

     

    Hmmmmm... yet ANOTHER Licensed Star Wars product depicting Captain Cardinal as a TLJ-era set of armor.

     

    Is it a disappointing miss in accuracy?

     

    Or at what point do we accept that either a TFA or TLJ variant may be acceptable?

     

    Disney/LucasFilm has now signed off a TLJ version at least...

     

    Once...

     

    DtBPJx1.jpg

     

    Twice...

     

    RQ1DSzC.jpg

     

    And now three times with Denuo Novo, who also makes a TFA helmet and could have easily loaded red plastic into that mold. Technically more than that as well, as both the art and products were likely approved separately. If this was a garage maker, it would not matter, but these same boxes sport the Disney logo and therefore I think merit inclusion in the discussion, especially with so few other canon visual references for this character.

     

    To my limited knowledge, the only other contrary visual reference material is from the Phasma book jacket that shows TFA style... (Curious if that was a computer generated image or what...)

     

    DIBdxfcW0AIK6U2.jpg

     

     

    I'd love to hear people's thoughts and if a TLJ variant should be developed!

     

    I just want to see this costume approved, man...

    • Like 2
  3. 76. Star Wars Day at the OC Zoo - Orange, CA - Sat. 6/10/23 (ANH-S #49, FTE #58)

     

    The OC Zoo troop is one of my absolute favorite events of the year, and the largest single day of fundraising for the Zoo as well. One of their directors is a huge fan (goes to Celebration, all that) and they go all out with decorating and activities, but this was the first time they've hosted since 2019 due to the pandemic and then major renovations. We had a line out the front gates and well down the path out front - over 50+ costumers from the 501st, RL, and MMCC, like 4 Road Squadron decorated cars parked out front, R2/Droid builders, GA, and some incredible outfits from guests too.

     

    C7Lk5Jl.jpg

     

    vvlwTmA.jpg

     

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    Strong showing from the FISD with I think 6 total TKs, plus a GA FOTK!

     

    Kk9SpEb.jpg

     

    The zoo keepers are super cool and usually let us handle some of their more friendly animals. I got to hold a porcupine one year!

     

    Go5QKVw.jpg

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    QoLllOa.jpg

     

    It was also a perfect opportunity for one of our Tusken members to show off his Massif puppy puppet (so cool). We had a small horde of Jawas as well, including my wife.

     

    QOAU71a.jpg

     

    Photos include myself, TK-61490, and FISD members: TK-20413, TK 83751 @fishgoh0nk, TK-82077 @TattooedStormtrooper, TK-3399, and TK-45528. Most of these aren't me but were the better photos I found with TKs in them. It was nice to see @Harbinger as well while he was in town!

    • Like 7
  4. 22 hours ago, themaninthesuitcase said:

    I may be wrong but I believe it normally works the other way for "realised suits" based on movie start points. You take the movie CRL and adjust only what you can demonstrate to be different. This is remove stuff you can't tell either way because of some limitation such as graphics, or camera angles.

    Tbh for some items it's sort of academic, like you're not going to see shoulder seams under that pouldron. So unless you want to dual clear (please do and juice the the numbers a little) as a TFA it wouldn't overly matter.

     

    The gloves, can you even get white stitched at the moment? Doesn't seem like it's worth worrying about vs TFA. That is unless we are saying they *should* be white in which case we'd want to flip the CRL, so basic and probably EIB black sticking is okay but cor Centurion you'd need white. 

     

    As for the rest, keeping in line with the TFA seems reasonable.  Means you can't build something you then can't clear as a plain TFA if wanted, though in reality I expect most Guage builders would be starting from a cleared TFA and adding the visor, pouldron and so on.

    I do have some pragmatic thoughts on the gaskets for Centurion, the main one being there are few sellers and from what I understand horrible to wear.

     

    I'll defer to the team and it's not a hill I'm willing to die on. The armor underneath is clearly TFA era, so the existing TFA CRL should be a great base, but we're just not going to be able to confirm many things based on the game graphics, so why would we include anything that would hold anyone to an artificial standard that we can't prove using the source material? Is there enough 360* clear imagery to warrant a CRL? I say heck yes. Is there enough detail to include ALL of the criteria from the TFA FOTK CRL? I would say no.

     

    And I would argue that the source material is meant to be "realistic". This is not an "animated" style or a style of armor that is specific to the game. The game is clearly intending to replica TFA era realistic movie armor within the best abilities of their graphics capabilities. It should be a slightly easier version of the TFA FOTK, but add the pauldron and visor.

     

    I know Endor Finders was offering white palms at one point, but that render was not in color. I suspect the palm stitching is black. But I couldn't prove it to you with a clear image from the game, so....

     

    22 hours ago, themaninthesuitcase said:

    How well does the paint match the pouldron? As in the renders they are the same colour.

     

    One thing I've noticed comparing the red is that there is some light weathering to the armour and the visor.  Are you going for a "clean" version, sort of a factory fresh, or a closer to shown light weather?

     

    Spot on - they're painted with the same rattlecan Rust-Oleum Heritage Red satin paint.

     

    I am starting with a "clean" version (and will likely submit as a TFA FOTK first) and then will add light weathering for submission of Gauge once I've confirmed with the LMOs that substantive changes are not absolutely required.

     

    29 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

    That confirms what I had thought, definitely curved which makes things a little more difficult, I was looking at the pauldron many moons ago and couldn't come up with an easy solution without a ton of work.

     

    The character designer has confirmed that the curvature of the pauldron is an artefact during gameplay and that a soft leather should be an ideal material, similar to the Denuo Novo FOTK pauldrons. Mine should soften up a bit more with wear but there's no reason to make this any harder than it needs to be. I will attempt to replicate the game character as faithfully as possible, but there will be limitations when we are replicating a source material that isn't real world, and I accept that.

    • Like 2
  5. Double up on your magnets and place them as close as they can get, staggering them slightly and alternating polarities as you place them so they want to push apart, not pull together. The more pressure you have on the strip, the more flush it's going to lay. Having inner cover strips glued in first will also make this WAY easier to allow for minimal gaps, as the coverstrip becomes more cosmetic than structural. I usually scuff my pieces before gluing with E6000, so watch when you scuff under the strip and ensure the part is level there also.

    • Like 2
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