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CableGuy

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Everything posted by CableGuy

  1. Cheers, Jesse. Looking forward to getting a few more bits done over the next few nights. Notably the counter and cylinders. It's quite funny - I used to own one of the limited edition Master Replicas E-11 blasters. At the time, I thought it was the bees knees. Doing this project has revealed how many little details the screen used blasters had compared with some of the copies. Although the self-build option is time consuming, I'm really pleased I took on the challenge. :-)
  2. Morning all. Following my previous, slightly uninspiring post, I had a much more productive 20 minutes before work today. Btw, thanks for the tips and hints following the last post. :-) So, trimmed the clearing strip down to just over 6mm. Much neater. In that note, I’d like to highlight another small, but I feel effective, mod. I really wanted the clearing strip to appear like it is separate from the body. As such, I needed it to sit ‘under’ the ejection port hole, not shaped and touching the port hole. So, after doing the usual mod of using a modelling tool (scraper of sorts) to give more definition, I used my smallest drill bit (1mm I think) to clear enough room to fit the strip. This now allows the strip to tuck under the body and appear to be separate, as if connected to the bolt only. So, with the clearing strip cut to size, I positioned it. It is not yet glued, just wedged into the gaps I mentioned above. (I’ll refine the shape of the strip a little later). I then moved on the to the inner bolt strip. As I mentioned before, I’m using MDF for this part. As the piece I’d cut was a little shallow, I padded it out with some left over 1mm ABS. In the pics, there is one piece of 1mm - that was still a little too shallow so I double it. I used super glue to attach the abs to the MDF, then sanded both to the desired size. To match the appearance of the curved bolt, I sanded the top edge of the MDF to show a slight curve. I then marked a nice, straight line with a junior hacksaw, then started to file away down to a 1mm depth, approx. Only the top part done for now, but I’m really pleased with how it’s looking so far. As always, more to come. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Great work, Jesse. Loving the detail. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Cheers Jesse. 6.2mm sounds good. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Cheers, Chris. I’ll double check the size then give that a go. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Cheers, Jesse. The strip itself is approx 8mm wide - the pencil marks on the bolt are just either side of the strip for positioning. I’ll have a dig around for confirmation of the strip width. I have a heat gun. Any tips? What’s best to hold the plastic with without damaging the strip? Pliers? :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Hi all, Spent an hour yesterday working on the clearing strip. Erm... it’s not looking amazing. ;-) Now, I’m really struggling to ‘bend’ or shape the clearing strip to sit nicely on the bolt: I tried giving the ABS a heat bath but it still doesn’t sit well. Any tips? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Cheers buddy. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Happy Halloween, everyone. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Congrats mate. Well deserved. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Looking great. :-) For a split second, at around 48 seconds I thought “is he gonna do a backflip”? Lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Thanks Jesse. I remembered that you acquired a Hengstler and spent quite a while looking at the pics from your thread. Very helpful to see so many angles of it. I actually got my Perspex from part of an old ruler - hopefully it’ll do the trick. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. You’re a very kind man, Tino. I do like to doodle when I can. And, working for Disney? Talk about a dream job. :-) Regarding the mag, yes, I’m planning to add the LED from your kit - hopefully spring loaded so it functions. I have to check some build techniques for that before I delve in. Noted on the depth. :-) And yes, you’re right. There are many incredible builds to learn from. So many little ideas that can make a blaster look superb. Yours are definitely a big part of that. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. No pencils in sight for this bit - I spent my lunch break staring at pictures of real Hengstler counters. Although I don’t have the correct font, I did work with some basic shapes and effects to create my “number dial”. I’ve printed copies with the TK number that I’ll request, but don’t want to put them online in case I jinx it. ;-) Excuse the photo taken of my computer screen. A couple of different designs. Of course, they look different behind Perspex and will be very small when inside the counter. I’m quite pleased for a first attempt. Also re-worked the resin mag clip as the Doopy’s is some way from authentic. Work in progress - will work further on it and upload more pics later. As always, more to follow. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Hehe. I like it. I always think of Tino as the Blaster Master - perhaps I’ll become “the surgeon”. ;-) Lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. Cheers Jesse. Yes, Amazon Prime is pretty speedy. :-) I’m quite an artistic person* so hoping that transfers to my blaster painting skills. ;-) * My family’s been passing around a virus around the house over the last few days (yuk) but all recovering now. Hopefully I can start to make further progress on my blaster soon. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. Special delivery... :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Looking great! I know that exact feeling. I love wearing the suit, but don’t yet feel like I AM a Stormtrooper when I’m suited up - then I see pictures of my TK and can’t stop staring at them!!! IT LOOKS REAL! ;-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. Hi all, So, I reduced the girth of the forearms but was displeased with the join around the back. Here’s how they joined: The left arm was the worst one, so I decided to take it apart and move up the back/inner part of the forearm. Although it wasn’t glued at this point, the join at the back would now be nearer, thanks to trimming the wrist end and top end. And here we are. I’ve now been given the green light to go for clearance as soon as my blaster is ready. Much happier with the complete look now. :-) (Only a quick kit up for the arms - no TD, neck seal, butt had come loose etc) Happy trooping, everyone. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. Excellent - I look forward to seeing that. Your armour is looking great. :-) ...and, thank you kindly. :-)
  21. Tino, you’re a star. I really appreciate your advice and experience on this. Many thanks. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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