shashachu

@Dani I really like the mods you made to the abdomen to fit your smaller frame. Great job with your build.

Hi Dave! Unless my eyes our deceiving me, it does still look like you have some return edge at the 'hump' of the forearm: It looks like the forearm is curving in a bit at the wrist, when it should be flat. If it helps, here is the photo from my own submission: Your updated photos don't need to be super-duper close up. I'd rather see clear, in-focus photos than extreme closeups. Thanks!

Hey Dave! Mike, who did your original EIB review, is no longer on the DO team, so I'll be doing your Centurion review. You've done some great fixes since your EIB submission, but there are a couple of small fixes that will need to happen before we can proceed with your application. First, the L3 Hero CRL states: The top of the ABS ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels. Your is sitting *just* a bit low. When you check out the reference photos, it's actually ok for the belt to slightly overlap the bottom ab buttons. On my own kit, I added a couple of small strips of velcro to the back of my belt to keep it from sagging. Reference Images: Next, the L3 CRL states: No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed. It's a bit hard to tell from the photo, but I do believe you still have some return edge on the wrist side of your forearm. You'll need to make sure there is no ABS slanting inwards. Could you please post updated/clearer photos of both wrists as well? Should be a fairly simple fix with scissors, a sander, or a dremel. Reference Image: Thanks! Sha Sha

Hi Sven, Thanks for your application and for the frown paint fix! CRL and EIB Application Requirements All required photos are now in and, after review, we are pleased to welcome you to Expert Infantry rank. On behalf of the DO team and myself, many congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions Starting from the top, as was already mentioned, the bordering paint on the traps and tears of your helmet is a bit thick. You could address this by carefully painting over some of the black border with gray paint. Reference Images: Next, your vocoder paint could be cleaned up a bit to make it more symmetric. Reference Image: Moving along, you have a bit of a gap between your kidney and back. It's not so large as to block Centurion, but I'd take a look at the strapping and see if you can reduce it. Reference Image: Moving on to your arms, as was already mentioned, bringing your forearms up will even out the black gaps, giving you a more polished look and ensuring your forearms aren't running in to your hand plates. Reference Image: The ends of the TD clips should ideally be square off, not rounded, and the screws should be closer to the end. Not a big deal, but worth mentioning. Reference Image: Next, the outer buttons on your belt is quite far away from the edge of the belt. I'm unsure if perhaps your belt is a little long, or maybe the button could be moved out. Reference Image: Next, your butt plate is sticking out a bit. Ideally it should sit right below the kidney. You might need to add or adjust some strapping to keep it in place. Reference Image: One of the rivets holding on your ammo knee pack is a bit close to the corner of the ammo pack. Ideally it would be moved in a bit. Reference Image: Moving on, there is a slight gap between the bottom ridge of the rear of your thighs. It would look cleaner if this gap was filled, or even just backed with a small square of white ABS. Reference Image: Moving into the sniper knee, on the screen-used suits, they were trimmed more angularly, while yours is more curved. Reference Image: Centurion Requirements In this section we prepare you for Centurion. More photos may be requested in the future that allow us to make better decisions on possible adjustments. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here. Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EIB, items to pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all that we can from what is seen, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. Starting at the top, the L3 CRL states: Ear screws shall be slotted, flat topped, countersunk and painted white. Your lower ear screws are sticking out a bit, so they would need to be carefully countersunk. Reference Image: Next, the L3 CRL states: There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and the chest/back plates. Your shoulder bell gap is a bit bigger than we like to see. You should be able to shorten the strapping holding the shoulder bells on to bring them closer. You can also trim off all of the lower return edge on your shoulder bells. Reference Images: Next, the L3 CRL states: The top of the ABS ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels. Your belt it sitting just a little too low. On my own kit I added two small strips of velcro to the belt to keep it from sagging. As you can see in the reference pics, even having the belt slightly overlap the lower buttons is ok. Reference Image: Continuing on, the L3 CRL states: Ab button paint shall not extend beyond the bottom of the actual raised button. Your ab button paint it a bit too large so you'd have to remove some of the paint. You can even make the paint slightly smaller than the button. I've also indicated where you can square off the ab button panels, but that is not a Centurion blocker. Reference Image: Next, two areas where you'd have to make some additions: Ideally there no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor. Abdominal and Kidney Plate align horizontally at top. A single visible seam line is present. Three rivets, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter, are present on the left side of the abdomen armor. Note: The original rivets used for the TK armor were bifurcated rivets or split rivets. Rivets are equally spaced along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. The heads are rounded or domed. Note: Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Rivets are painted white. In addition to aligning the ab and kidney armor as well as eliminating that last little gap between the ab and kidney, you would need to add the 3 white rivets on the left side. I've roughly indicated where they should go in the image. Also note that they do not have to be functional. Reference Images: The L3 CRL states: A single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate is present. This is also called the 'Han snap' because it's visible on screen in the detention block scene when Han removes his helmet. You would need to add this snap on your armor for Centurion. Reference Image: Moving on to the belt, the L3 CRL states: Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. Yours are hanging a bit low as well as not quite aligned with the end of the belt. Many of us add a bit of glue to the white elastic holding the drop boxes on in order to keep them in place. Reference Image: The L3 CRL further states: The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that that meets the outer edge of the cloth belt. It's a little hard to see, but I don't think your corners quite meet in the right place. You might be able to trim them to end at the correct place, or you could also try trimming back some of the fraying on your belt so it's not so wide. Reference Image: Finally, the L3 CRL states: Hand guards shall be latex or latex-like, solid white or painted white, and affixed to rubber gloves with no visible strapping or stitching. I'm fairly certain your hand plates are ABS, so they would need to be replaced with flexible ones. There are a few sellers here on FISD selling Centurion-approvable handplates. And that's it! There are a number of changes that you'll need to make to your armor in order to reach Centurion, but I do hope we see your application there soon. In the meantime, please accept our heartfelt congratulations on reaching the rank of EIB!

Great looking build, Will! One of us should be with you soon.

Hi @Welshtudor75 just wanted to be sure you saw my comment - we'll need you to embed all the photos inside of the post.

Congrats, Cam! Love your perspective as well.

Just found your thread - you are blazing through this build! Really exciting to see you make so much progress. Re: EIB 1000 unfortunately it is going to be too late for that, but please don't feel deterred - the L2 and L3 approvals are an honor, no matter what your number is. Agree with what the others say to not make any irreversible decisions until you have your undersuit and gaskets. I'm also jealous of all of the changes KB has been making to his kits - I have a v1 that is a much more complicated build. But at the end of the day, it's all excuses. Can't wait to follow your progress.

Thanks for the frown pics, Sven! You will need to remove some of the paint from the 'gums' in order for us to proceed with your application. I've indicated the areas where I can see the overpainting, but take a close look at all of the teeth and make sure none of the paint is on the gums. As you can see from the reference pics, you can even underpaint the teeth a bit. It should be a pretty simple fix - just some time with a toothpick or cotton swab and some paint thinner or mineral spirits. Thanks!

Hello Sven! Thanks for your application - you have a very nice build. I'll be doing your review. Could you send a couple more closeups of your helmet teeth? I just want to ensure there's no paint leaving the teeth. Thank you!

Hi Tudor! Could you please embed the photos directly into your application post? It makes the reviews easier on us, and it's nice for other troopers to use as a reference. It looks like maybe the link to the gallery has gone away, but if I recall from when I looked quickly through them, I believe your ammo pack rivet needs to be painted white. Thigh ammo belt is attached to thigh with a solid head rivet, painted white, in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge. I could also be remembering wrong, but I think your ab/kidney rivets were also missing the white paint. Although the rivets are technically an L3 requirement, if you already have the white paint out to paint over your ammo pack rivet, you may as well tackle those ones as well.

Ultimately it's up to your GML. We have approved lightly weathered kits up to Centurion but usually most folks do the shiny white.

Congrats!

As long as the shim is flush, it's ok at EIB.

Hi Craig, Thanks for your application and for the adjustment with your hand plates. CRL and EIB Application Requirements All required photos are now in and, after review, we are pleased to welcome you to Expert Infantry rank. On behalf of the DO team and myself, many congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. Starting from the top, a couple suggestions with your brow trim. First, the brow trim usually ends around the end of the trap, so you can simply snip off the end. Next, Stunt helmets in general had their brow trims slightly higher (unlike Hero helmets which had very low brow trim), so if you'd like to match that classic Stunt look, we're suggesting that you scoot it up a a couple mm. Reference Image: Continuing with the helmet, this is something we suggest only for trooping, not for screen accuracy. Many of us add some sort of black cloth or mesh behind the helmet teeth in order to prevent people at troops from seeing our faces. Again it's not for screen accuracy, simply a suggestion to help preserve that movie magic. Reference Image Moving lower, it appears as if your neck seal or perhaps your undershirt is sticking out the back of your armor. The next time you get suited up, just have a handler ensure everything is tucked in securely. Reference Image: Next, as was already pointed out, the screen-used suits tended to have their sniper knees trimmed more sharply, rather than rounded. Reference Image: Moving on, the rivet holding on your ammo knee pack is quite close to the corner. Ideally it'd be moved in a bit. Reference Image: Finally, in your most recent set of pics I noticed there's a bit of a gap between one of the TD clips and the panel. Ideally it would be flush. Reference Image: Centurion Requirements In this section we prepare you for Centurion. More photos may be requested in the future that allow us to make better decisions on possible adjustments. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here. Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EIB, items to pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all that we can from what is seen, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. Starting again from the top, your trap paint is quite small compared to the molds in the helmet, so we'd like you to expand it to fill the available space. Reference Images: Moving on, the L3 CRL states: Three rivets, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter, are present on the left side of the abdomen armor. Yours are present, but the positioning is off compared to the screen-used suits. This is one of those instances where we do rely on visual reference rather than just the text of the CRL. You'd need to remove the rivets, drill new holes, and fill the olds ones. A fair bit of work, but it can definitely be done. While you're in the area, you should also touch up the white paint of the upper rivets. Reference Images: Note that the measurements don't need to be exact, but they should look visually similar. We do realize the curve in the RS abdomen armor can make exact positioning difficult. Similarly, your 'Han' snap is present, but also positioned farther away from the edge than we'd like. Again, you'd need to drill out the snap, reposition it, and fill the old hole. Reference Image: Next, the L3 CRL states: Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. Yours are just a bit too far in. Many of us add a bit of glue to the drop box elastic to keep them in place. Reference Image: Finally, the L3 CRL states: Hand guards shall be latex or latex-like, solid white or painted white, and affixed to rubber gloves with no visible strapping or stitching. Your hand guards appear to be ABS, so they would need to be replaced for Centurion. Reference Image: Finally, this may simply be a reflection, but it appears you may have some metallic weathering on the grip of your blaster. The L3 CRL states: The blaster may have minor weathering or base metal exposure however, T-tracks and grips shall have the appearance of black plastic. Reference Image: And that's it! We hope to see your Centurion application soon, but until then, please accept our hearty congratulations for reaching EIB!

No problem! We'll be here when you're ready. Thank you!

Hi Craig, Thanks for the updated photos; agree the hand plate positioning looks a lot better. In regards to your TD screws, what color are they? The L2 CRL says Clips shall be attached with slotted type, flat or dome top style screws, and be black (two per clip). It could just be the light, but yours look like they may be silver. If they are, 5 minutes with some black paint should be all that you need, and then we can proceed with your application. Otherwise, if you can post photos that show they're already black, that would be fine as well. Reference Image: Thanks!

Hi Bryan, Thanks for your application and for the quick fix with your blaster scope. CRL and EIB Application Requirements All required photos are now in and, after review, we are pleased to welcome you to Expert Infantry rank. On behalf of the DO team and myself, many congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions Starting from the top, this is mostly a matter of personal preference, but in general, the Stunt TKs had their brow trim just a touch higher (while the Hero helmets had it low like yours.) If you're looking for that classic Stunt look, we're suggesting you shift it up a few millimeters. Reference Image: Next, we're suggesting you double check the positioning of your shoulder straps. Ideally they'd be just a little further in, and the right one is hanging a bit lower that the left. Reference Image: Next, a simple dressing issue. For a super clean look, it's nice to have your coverstrips aligned on your limbs. In your case both of your forearms are rotated out a bit. Next time you get suited up, just take a quick look at the positioning for that fresh-off-the-Death star look. Reference Image: Another small detail is that your belt buttons appear to be a bit thick. If I recall, I had to make a small divot in the underside of mine to get them to lay flatter. Definitely not a big deal, but if you ever find yourself needing to disassemble your belt for some reason, you could sand down the covers. Reference Image Moving along, butt plate appears to be sticking out a bit and maybe even overlapping the kidney. Ideally it should sit just below the kidney, but not overlap, so we're suggesting you take a look at the strapping in that area. Reference Image: Moving along, as simple fix. The right rear thigh ridge gap should ideally be filled or at least backed with ABS so you can't see the gap. Also worth mentioning is the small gap you have in your left calf closure. In this case it's a simply dressing issue, so just have a handler give it a once-over the next time you get suited up. Reference Image Reference Image: Finally, on the screen-used suits the sniper knee was trimmed a little straighter, not curved. Reference Image: Centurion Requirements In this section we prepare you for Centurion. More photos may be requested in the future that allow us to make better decisions on possible adjustments. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here. Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EIB, items to pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all that we can from what is seen, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. Starting from the top, the L3 CRL states: There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and the chest/back plates. You look like you have quite a bit of room to bring them in. This can be accomplished by shortening the strapping holding the shoulder bells on, and in your case I can see you have quite a bit of return edge on the lower bells. If you trimmed this off entirely, that would bring the bells in much closer to your chest and back. Reference Images: Next, it appears your kidney is sized too large, leading to a pretty significant gap between your back and kidney plate. We do allow gaps in armor if, for example, the trooper is extremely tall, but in your case it looks like you have significant room to size down your kidney plate. I think you may need to trim down both sides and re-strap. This isn't something that's explicitly pointed out in the CRL, but we do use reference images to compare with. Reference Image: The L3 CRL states: Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. Yours are sitting a bit low so you'll probably need to shorten the white elastic holding them on. Additionally, your right box is wandering a bit, so you might also want to add a drop of glue to the elastic to keep it in place. Reference Image: Next, your 'Han' snap is present, but should be closer to the edge of the ab. Normally this involves drilling out the snap, re-setting it in the proper place, and filling the old hold. Since you do have room to spare in your torso, however, one way to solve this could be to trim off a bit of the edge of the ab, but you'll need to ensure there's still not gap between the ab and kidney. Reference Image: The L3 CRL states: No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed. You've done a pretty good job getting rid of a lot of the return edge, but you have a bit of work to do. You can either sand or cut it off, but ensure that there is absolutely no return edge left. As a bonus, it will help your gloves from bunching at the wrist. Reference Image: The L3 CRL states: Ab button paint shall not extend beyond the bottom of the actual raised button. It's possible it's just the photo, but your button paint appears to be a bit large. Looking at the reference photo, you can even err on the side of underpainting the buttons. Reference Image: The L3 CRL states: The top of the ABS ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels. As you can see, your belt is sitting too low. On my own kit I added small strips of velcro to keep the front of my belt from sagging. Reference Image: I see you already have latex hand plates, which is great. However, yours appear to be coming unglued a bit. From experience, I know getting them to stick to the glove is a bear, but you'll need to re-glue them from your Centurion application. Reference Image: Moving on, as was already mentioned, your right calf coverstrip is a bit too long (your left is perfect). A couple minutes with a pair of scissors should do it. Reference Image: Finally a couple more fixes with your blaster. The L3 CRL states: The blaster may have minor weathering or base metal exposure however, T-tracks and grips shall have the appearance of black plastic. It could just be lighting, but it looks like you do have weathering on your grip and t-tracks. In reality these were made of plastic, so they shouldn't have any metallic weathering on them. Reference Image: Finally, as mentioned before, your Hengstler counter is sitting too far back. You did a great job fixing your scope, so hopefully you can also modify the position of the Hengstler counter without too much trouble. Reference Image: And that's it! You do have a few corrections to reach Centurion, but we have full confidence in your ability to get there, and we and many other Troopers are here to assist you as well. Until then, please accept our hearty congratulations in reaching EIB!

Thanks Bryan! We'll be with you soon.

Great! Please reach out if we can be helpful.

Hi Anthony, Thanks for your application and for the quick turnaround with the corrections. The forearm and ammo pack both look great! CRL and Centurion Application Requirements All required photos are now in and, after review, we are pleased to welcome you to Centurion! On behalf of the DO team and myself, many congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly In this area we discuss areas that could benefit from additional improvement. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions Just a few small areas to consider the next time you get suited up. First, ideally the screws of the TD should sit closer to the ends of the clips. Also, the clips look to be not quite completely curved around the TD, as the ends are sticking up a bit. Not a big deal at all, but worth mentioning. Reference Image Next, when you're putting the TD on your belt, just ensure it's pushed down all the way. Reference Image Moving on, some of the screws you've used for your brackets are sticking out quite a bit. If you think you can countersink them without compromising the return edge, it would clean up the look. Reference Image Finally, you've reduced the right side ab/kidney gap, just try to ensure that you're not overcorrecting and overlapping the two. There's definitely room to find a happy medium. Reference Image: And that's it! Well done on your build, and I'm happy to see another California trooper reach Centurion. On behalf of the DO team, congratulations again!

Hi Bryan, Thanks for your application! Like @gmrhodes13 said, unfortunately your blaster scope is mounted backwards and will need to be flipped before we can proceed with your EIB application. Hopefully you'll be able to correct that without damaging your blaster. He is also correct that your Hengstler counter is sitting a bit far back, so while you're working on that you could also fix that positioning, although it wouldn't block for EIB. Reference Image Finally, as Glen noted, you're are also missing some required photos: * Closeup of thigh ammo pack rivet on both sides from outside * Closeup on thigh ammo pack rivet from the inside * Closeup of all 3 sides of sniper knee - left, right, front * Blaster D-ring If it helps, you can look at some previous approvals for reference, or this visual checklist https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/49232-anh-stunt-expert-infantry-visual-checklist-2020/ Please reach out to us if we can be of assistance! Thanks, Sha Sha

Looks awesome, Anthony! Thanks for the super quick fix. We'll be with you soon.

Hi Diego! Just checking in here to see if there's anything you need from the DO team. We hope to see your updated photos soon.

Great job, Ueli! You're almost there.