Jump to content

TheSwede

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
  • Posts

    4,625
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    97

Everything posted by TheSwede

  1. I’m not trying to persuade you BUT In case you want to raise it some you can use a lexan scissor with a curve and cut…well 5mm or so without any danger of ruining the look. I didn’t even dissassamble my helmet for when I cut mine. I also cut mine with a slight curve. And…if you ever wan’t to go back to a lower brow you just pull down on the brow itself, it don’t need much ”grab” to stay in place. whatever makes you happy
  2. Probably would, but in my opinion not needed as the helmet looks great as is Looking at the pic Mario provided I would be tempted to raise the brow though Totally just personal preference so just ignore me if you are happy with it
  3. I did the same on my kit and so far no cracks, I have much less of a return edge though.
  4. I think that would be the best way to go about it. Totally jealous that you actually have that option, to own a lineage helmet and the capability to vacuform…..*sigh
  5. I might get this wrong but do you plan for having the chestplate permanently attached?
  6. No clue as to FibreGlast but for painting I would be temted to try the Mandalorian way. Alumaluster, alclad, duralumen or graphite powder.
  7. So I easily can adjust the size incase my midsection increase/decrease.
  8. Congratulations and welcome to the Legion Don’t forget to request higher access https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/186-501st-and-detachment-access-requests/
  9. From my experience it comes down to the acetone used. I guess I just got lucky with a local supplier. I was going to smooth it out and used a different brand (smaller bottle and easier to use) and that turned the paste yellow so did some sanding and applied a new layer of paste and then only sanded/wet sanded and polished.
  10. Great to see you back at it @Deployment Officer Team as this particular armor stand as of right now it would make it look better not having the notch. One can see that the notch should alligne with the end of the ab plate and not at the ridge as previously stated in this thread. lucasfilm reference. RS suit reference: FISD reference: This is mostly covered by the belt anyways so why bother right? Yeah but…as we talk about the higher levels I feel it’s important to let people know how the original armor was put together and how it looks
  11. I did the same and as Glen mentioned I covered the trim lines with ABS paste.
  12. Short answer: nope. There is some work involved with filling seams and making it seamless but that’s the nature of every FO-kit out there. Great to hear you received everything, I’m just waiting on the TLJ helmet before I can go for approval. Good luck on your build
  13. Video is crap but also a wrap well almost atleast, TLJ helmet still missing but got word from DN today that it will be shipped ASAP
  14. Hope your build is coming along. Just wanted to mention that using fabric with stretch didn’t work all that well, atleast not for me so I ended up sewing the zipper straight to the velcro and that gave a much better connection
  15. TD will still cover it and if you use a solid closure that won’t pop open then use the armor as a sort of corset and yes I’m serious My armor has a gap at the top and what I’m doing is to use said fabric (stretch) and a zipper and make it as tight as I can.
  16. If it’s only an inch or so on each side you don’t need to shim. You cut the back in half, glue the sides and the TD will cover the gap in the back. If you want a more firm connection/feeling you could ad fabric and a zipper to close the back. I’m building the same kit and it’s just plain awesome to work with
  17. Great to see you found your way here
×
×
  • Create New...