humperdingle

Beautiful... All of it!

Hey, thanks. No, I won't be attempting to bring the SDS kit up to 501st basic level. I'll make other tweaks to make it easier to put on / more robust (like elastic and snap internal strapping).<br><br> All the positive geeing-up (as welcome, as it is) won't encourage me to cut the armour apart.<br><br> I'll keep the SDS more or less as it is now, and work on saving enough to buy a complete RS commission. Might take a couple of years, though!

I didn't even want one of these before. I do now

7 months is about the wait time for an email response from them

All limbs needto be glued except shins, which are optional. I'll shelve any more work on this armour - Way beyond my comfort level to be doing that kind of mod. Thanks for the info.

So in the absence of Doopydoos full kits, or much else for that matter, in the UK, i've ordered another Rubies E-11 blaster (£23 on Amazon). This time, instead of plugging the screw holes (badly), i'll dismantle the Rubies and attempt to do things a bit better. Below are a couple of pics of my current Rubies, which has had a few mods, but has been more of a sandbox experiment. I'll start the new build when the new Rubies arrives.

OK thanks, i've posted the question on UKG.

Thanks, i'm just trying to find out if they are basic-approvable as they are?

And this is the back of leg:

OK, so the first pic is something I know that I need to fix - remove the 3/4" or so of cover strip at bottom of thigh. This is showing the rear of arm - The bicep and forearm are closed by velcro.

Aah, cool. I'm sure i've got a square steel washer with the right size hole to just fit over the snap.Did they work fine?

Thanks, I'll post a couple of pics tomorrow. They'll need to be pics of the armour on the mannequin,,though.

I've ordered another Rubies, but i'll do the following: Weight it inside with modelling clay. Maybe install an internal barrel. Drill the holes in the outer barrels and underside. Hollow-out under the scope rail and betweel scope and rail. Add power cylinders. Flatten the T-Tracks as above photos. Paint and weather.

That's the Shepperton one (AKA SDS) I referred to above. Looks ok in their photos, but look at Youtube for some closer pics. Many of the parts they use look very rough and poorly finished, especially for the £150+ price tag.

Hi, yes I used the philips head screwdriver method But not the one pictured, that was just a tester What was the tube you used to push down on the heated plate?

This is my Rubies, painted, with the loopy t-tracks sanded (still need smoothed-out) -------------

Hi, thanks, that's one of the threads I saw. It uses rivets, though. I'm trying to just use the snaps.

I've been trying to order a Doopydoos E-11 kit since mid January (always out of stock, they don't answer emails and their phone voicemail is full). I'll keep trying but the patience is wearing thin.I have a Rubies E-11 (£23 inc postage on Amazon), which looks reasonable painted, but could use a few mods, and also did a scratch pipe build. Total cost of about a fiver but it's ugly (build thread is in the Blast-tech build section) My other option is to 'do it properly', and buy a deactivated Sterling SMG, but can't afford that

Where are you based, James? Hyperfirms aren't readily available outwith the US, it would seem. Personally, i'm not keen on the foam construction and the seam on it. RS don't ship the blasters on their own, due to breakage issues (!) i've asked. The Shepperton E-11 looks OK on their site but looks rough as hell on youtube vids. Doopydoos are always out of stock. Options are limited in the UK!

And did it work OK? I'm starting to build an internal strapping system, so i've been looking at threads regarding how to make the snaps and plates, particularly trying to keep the base of the plate flush to the armour, so it can bond properly (i.e. Maximum area to bond). So I installed the snaps onto plates, then heated the snap plate and used two bars of aluminium to push down. Ideally, I suppose i'd have made a square metal jig plate with a hole for the snap to sit it, then push down. If anyone has tried this with success, please let me know. (Or a better system) I've seen someone use a soldering iron to melt the snap into the plate to make it flush, but reckon this might not leave enough ABS to be strong enough?

Armour looks great! This thread will help me sort my own SDS approval

So I shouldn't need to touch them for basic approval? My long term plans are to save for an RS commission, and probably sell the SDS to help fund the RS, so this is just for initial 501st entry. Other than the removal of an inch of front thigh strip, hopefully they'll be ok.

So i've made some alterations to my SDS armour, still a couple of things to go.<br><br> I've:<br> Changed TD clip from plastic to aluminium clips.<br> Changed plastic belt for canvas one.<br> Made holster and affixed on l/h side with two rivets.<br> Got my Chelsea boots painted.<br><br> I need to:<br> Fix the shoulder straps to chest plate.<br><br> But the question is about the "Fully closed" wording, especially the biceps and forearm.<br> All limb parts on the SDS armour are velcro-closing. Is this acceptable? Does "Fully closed" just mean that there are no gaps? EDIT: An ongoing list containing steps required for (UKG) 501st basic approval here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/36274-sds-shepperton-design-studios-snagging-list-ukg-501st/

What are the advantages of having a black helmet interior?

I ordered some Plastruct T section but I reckon it's gonna be too small. Ridiculously high premium on these - very simple - T tracks.