humperdingle

It'll be a great base for a conversion, mate. Looking forward to it <br><br> Edit: It's 'Sterling', btw

Thought i'd prime and paint the blaster, then go back and sand the joins again. Here are the front tracks and magazine cap for now, though. The tracks might get another sanding, too: Added a strip of sticky label to bolt (will be given a bit of silver paint) It's not until you've painted something, that you notice all the bits that STILL need sanded

Problem with the joins, is the flexibility of the blaster's material. If I were to do another, i'd do all the internal stuff -filling etc- But before closing, i'd run a bead of glue all around the join. This would prevent it moving about, and should make the sanding/filling much more successful. So I made the little magazine cap. Glued and screwed, but I think it should be a recessed round part, not a screw. I might at least fill in the screw head, leaving it a dome. Then started sanding down the T-Tracks with the 40mm drum sander attachment.

The fins are surprisingly easy to sand down. I used a 40mm drum sander attachment on my power drill. The drill is clamped in a vice, so the drum part sticks out past the workbench edge, then my hands are free to just hold the Rubies. The only tracks that might pose any issues are 1) The top track, which will need filled if you go too far, but that's easy enough to sort. 2) The one on the bottom (ejector side), which is moulded, or attached to another bit of the gun at the front. Just go carefully, only touching the track. After they're level, with rounded ends, you can just smooth down any bumps and sharp edges with sandpaper. Edit: removing the material under scope rail is a bit trickier , but is worth in my opinion. I used a Dremel for this, but it's easy to damage the top of the tube, plus you may need to use filler for the top of the tube (directly under where you've cut) I also drilled out the front and rear sights.

They are fun. Usually. I spent ages sanding the edges of this one, filling it, then re-sanding. The filler just seems too brittle for this (Squadron white putty). Anyway, i'll see what I can do with the joins, but it's not looking great just now.

This could be a build thread <br><br> Actually, this would be a great time to shorten the big fella. He's about 6ft 2", i'm 6ft, and the armour has a gap between the thighs and shins when he's wearing it.<br> He might have to lose his knees (eek).

Hi, just some kind of sanitary sealant stuff I had in the garage. Was gonna use plasticine or modelling clay, but It would have been an extra expense. It's fairly dense, so adds a decent bit of weight. (Filled the tubes with it, too.

Yeah, i've been in contact with an 'armourer' on UKG. I can glue all limbs (except shins) at the rear, so i'll be doing that soon

Of course he's got a name... Manakkin Skywalker

Of course! Hmm... I could cut off halfway up the shin, keeping his feet permanently in the spare boots I have just for him. I need to bend his leg so it's straighter anyway! Nice!

Assuming thigh armour is glued, therefore inflexible... How exactly do you get the thighs onto a mannequin's legs? My mannequin's feet are not removable, so his 90 degree feet will not allow the armour to slip on (?!)

Just looking at the comments, the oldest one was about 6 years old, so lots of things will have changed, I suppose.

Came across this video just now - "Keith Moss" of the Singapore 501st, showing how to put armour on. Seems to be a pretty much unmodified SDS kit - Even still has the white plastic clip on the TD, but has canvas belt. All leg pieces are velcro. Weird that they wouldn't have at least a basic approval kit for the video? Or have things changed since the video?

Screwed back together (Drilled-out front and rear sights) And removed the brand lettering from rear tube.

Not the prettiest filler job in the world

Opening-up the blaster was a bit trickier than I anticipated. Despite the fact 3 of the 8 screws were missing (?), the two sides were stuck together pretty well, even with all screws removed. Almost had an early disaster trying to seperate them, especially round the handle area. Drilled the lower holes out. Bit raggedy, as it happens! And cut a piece of cardboard tube. A coat of black paint on the innards, as I may drill-out the scope to install lenses.

Received the Rubies E-11 today. I'm sure everyone is familiar with it, but here's a couple of pics showing how it's packaged:

Yeah, i'll have a think about that route. Mind you, having a virtual stranger butcher my armour doesn't seem too appealing either lol

For some people, i'd agree. I'm just not confident enough in my abilities, to start cutting-up my armour

Not really wanting any conflict tbh, but I asked if velcro closure on limbs is acceptable. The answer I got was: "Hello Mark. All limbs will be needed to be glued shut excluding the rear of the shins for basic clearance". So, presumably, cover strips with no velcro closure.

Kinda what I was hoping, mate, but apparently not. I made changes which were required for basic, like glueing the shoulder straps at front, other bits and pieces, which I felt were 'common sense', anyway. It's fine. If velcro closures on limbs aren't allowed, they aren't allowed. Not gonna cry about it

Cool. I got some Plastruct 6.4mm T section. It just isn't chunky or wide enough, but it'll be fine for adding details to custom blasters.

Do share

Nice one. Tell them i'll be along in 24 months or so

I finished my first Rubies the other day, but have another on the way. I say finished, but I can think of a couple of things I'd like to change. Added power cells to mine. I'd like a cap on the magazine, an actual D ring, not a moulded one, etc. Maybe on the new one. I think they're great little blasters