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ticopowell

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Everything posted by ticopowell

  1. Guess I never updated my build thread. Here's my EIB app and approval thread! Now I'm going for centurion, I fixed all the mandatory centurion items so I'll hopefully post that thread soon. Baby is due this week (hopefully not today, the hospital is 2 blocks away from the superbowl!) so I should have some time off work to help the wifey, and take a few more pictures For the Centurion fixes I trimmed and lowered the helmet brow, I added white to fill the gap on the thigh piece, I glued the belt boxes into place, and I think that was all I needed to do. I think I adjusted the forearms so they were slightly lower, and Ill have to look at the thigh placement when I wear the suit next. So... I need to suit up, take a few pics, and I should have centurion in the bag!
  2. Guess I should suit up and take pictures, I think I fixed everything already! Too bad I won't be home for 3 more weeks... Does number 501 get anything special too? That would be fitting I think.
  3. I got a kink like that, it was smaller but it was easy to remove, if it's on the inside part of the forearm it won't be as noticeable. I'd use a heat gun on low and a sandbag or stuffed animal that you don't care about. Or if you can find something harder that matched that curve, maybe even an orange. Then very very slowly add heat to the part. User gravity to help, have the part horizontal supported by two objects with the round object on top, and just heat a small section at a time. If the heat gun is adjustable put it to 180*, if not keep it on low. Be very very patient, once abs is warped a little it will warp a lot very quickly if you let it. Good luck!
  4. My anh abs armor was a little more than cut to size and glue, but not much more...
  5. Starwarsscreencaps.com has great HD screen caps as well, but no time stamps like you just made. Great work
  6. E6000 will stick to gloss alright, sanding the surface helps but you should be alright. You can always test it on a scrap piece and see how much force it takes to remove it after letting it cure for 72 hours
  7. If I'm seeing what I think I am, I think you could fill the oval indent with resin and it should be fine. Sand down the sharp edges, fill it with resin, then sand it once it's cured. Over that you can do month or some other filler, sand it smooth, and it should not be noticeable.
  8. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/image/4455-phasma_and_tkjpg/ This seems to show the cod well, I don't see hard ridges either.
  9. You could print it, and then sand them down to be less sharp.
  10. I found this in an old thread, might help https://i.imgur.com/NUKrHzf.jpg I think it has shape there, but not sharp ridges
  11. Do resin in and through the crack, on both sides if you want to seal it nicely. Let me search, I had to fix a crack in my Vader shoulder bell and that's how I did it. I'll post pictures if I can find them. They are in my Vader thread somewhere on the sld forum.
  12. I agree, e6000 isn't the answer for fiberglass cracks like that. Clean it out, sand a little, and then add some resin and fiber matt to the back. Once it's cured then sand down both sides and you'll be golden.
  13. Done, I was a little excited to submit and I had pre-typed the post, so all I had to do was copy and paste, didn't even think to change that photo, just explained it lol
  14. I'm also 6' and 205ish, I have RS armor and the only big change I needed was to ad shims to the kidney plate. If you are getting a commission done I'm not sure if they would do that for you or not, but either way they will include some spare ABS in case you need to shim things yourself, you just need to ask. The sizing of everything else was fine, I just made sure to not cut too much off of anything until I knew it would fit and look good. Feel free to read my build thread, it's in my signature, or here if you are on tapatalk.
  15. Thanks for the tips. I'm guessing that shoulder is out because the snap broke, so that shouldn't be an issue now. Ill check it when I get a chance. That brow has been nothing but trouble lately, Ill get it sorted out as well :). The Biceps need to stay where they are per the GML, so Ill likely need to lower the forearms down a half inch to an inch to cover that gap, but to not open one up too much around the elbow. Here are before and after pics from the original submission vs EIB. Original EIB Looks like my arms are a bit too long compared to an original TK
  16. Looks better than my HWT... mainly because I don't have one :D. I might do that sometime because it's a 2fer, add a few things to my TK and boom, I have 2 costumes!
  17. Caleb Powell Armor maker RS Props Helmet maker RS Props Blaster maker RS Props Cloth belt maker RS Props Neck seal maker Darmans props Boot maker Imperial Boots Height 6', 72", 182 cm Weight 205lb ish... Hand Plates RS Props, rubberized Electronics ukswrath hovi mic speakers, icomm, and amp setup Holster Local squad member, Mike Ford Armor Photos Full Body Front Full Body Back Full Right Full Left Right Side Detail Left Side Detail Helmet Detail Photos Front Side ] Back Hovi tip detail Lens color (Backlit if necessary) Accessory Photos Ammo belt Neckseal Blaster left side Blaster right side Thermal detonator back Action Shot Interior Strapping Abdomen Detail Boots Other pertinent photos not included in the guide, but frequently requested. Thanks for looking, Let me know what needs to be fixed!
  18. Nice thread, The only thing I can add is the speed controller I used in both my TK and my Vader. I use this one. It's got a detached controller, but they have ones that are attached to the PCB as well. I like the idea of being able to have the fans at a lower speed indoors to keep the lenses clear, but also able to go higher speed outside. I have it mounted inside the helmet powered by this USB battery pack, the fans I use are 7cfm 5v fans for a 3d printer found here. I haven't trooped with everything in my TK yet, but it's worked great for Vader so far. the only difference right now is the fans, I have a 12V battery in Vader, and 5V in my TK. For microphones my TK uses the one that ukswrath sells with his hovi mic setup, my Vader uses a radio shack mic I got off ebay, it's worked great, just needs an amp. The Aker mics have done alright from what I've heard, but none of these are very hidden, so under a facemask won't work very well. I know throat mics exist, they are designed to pick up your voice from the throat so they shouldn't sound muffled unless you have something between the mic and your skin.
  19. Thanks, I saw that they weren't added in those pictures right after I took everything off the other night. I have them on now.
  20. Looks like I have to wait to request EIB, I do not have a "start new topic" button in the correct page of the forum. I assume that it's because I don't have TK access yet, just standard 501st access. I requested it here But they haven't updated me yet.
  21. That's what I'm doing tonight, double checking my armor and comparing it to the CRL. I've also reviewed a few EIB submissions and will look at a few more tomorrow before suiting up to make sure I have all the pictures I need.
  22. So, I'm going over the EIB options and from what I can tell I don't really need to change anything, I might need a few more pictures, but I have pictures of everything already and I'm tempted to upload those to the EIB thread tonight lol. The biceps are getting glued at the moment, so they should be ready tomorrow. I think Ill suit up tomorrow, retake pictures of the biceps, and take a few more cleaner close up pictures in costume, then submit. That is unless @TKSpartan or @justjoseph63 want to call it good hahahaha jk, don't worry guys, I'll submit tomorrow Happy 4th everyone
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