bobafret

Thanks Paul! I'm actually a really liberal user of the Peer Review process as a GML it helps ensure that I'm not trying to be too tough or too lenient. Whenever a costume isn't an obvious pass, I run it through Peer Approval to see if I'm picking on things that are allowed, or even if I've missed things that I'm not aware are common misses. Detachment Leadership is a GREAT resource and the Peer Review process is a very easy way to get feedback.

I am the GML of Mountain Garrison. A potential member asked if replacing Anovos parts with WTF would be cool and I said if the colors didn't match close enough it wouldn't pass. This of course would be after I utilized peer review. Another member (Zugor) is suggesting that if it isn't in the CRL you can't enforce it. I don't agree with that position and that is how I advised the applicant. Seems like I'm not enforcing anything that isn't already understood. If the color mismatch is bad enough, it might not pass Basic.

No costume has actually been submitted. A member on our board asked about getting WTF parts as replacement for Anovos and I cautioned that if color didn't match close enough the applicant may need to paint to pass Basic Approval. This began a legalistic question over whether Basic Membership could be denied based on color mismatch since it wasn't addressed in the CRL. That's really the crux of the question. If the color match was different enough, might Basic Approval be denied on the basis of color mismatch? My understanding is that it might be if the difference was enough, even though that isn't specifically mentioned in the CRL.

The specific question raised was Anovos and WTF. If you haven't seen it, Anovos is CONSIDERABLY darker than other armors. My daughter has Anovos and I have AP and the difference in shades is definitely noticeable.

@Daetrin what say you? Ultimately a GML should abide by Detachment Leadership so I'm interested to know. I know in the past color mismatch has been a subject of peer review. Is this something detachment currently enforces as an assumed requirement or no? Would a mix of Anovos parts and WTF be acceptable at basic, given the shade mismatch?

Awesome discussion on the rear tab on the shoulder bridge! On this build I say leave it on because it looks proper when fit. Doesn't add un-necessary length to the bridge. As GML of Mountain Garrison I can say Jared makes this process easy! He has maintained a build thread on our board where I have been able to offer advice along the way, he has read and clearly understood the CRL, and he's building with highest accuracy in mind. And now utilization of our new review process! Once final pics are submitted this is an EASY pass at Basic and as I've mentioned to Jared it's qualified to shoot for EIB and Centurion with replacement of the shoes - not perfectly visible in these photos but there are seams in the boot that won't pass higher levels.

What I'm proposing would NOT ban FX armor (or moncal or any other that was MEANT to be constructed as overlap) at Basic. I think I'm being misunderstood. What I'm saying is that the current CRL seems to allow for let's say an Anovos kit to be built with overlap construction at Basic. This is my only issue. The kits that are SUPPOSED to be constructed with cover strips should be required to be constructed that way AT ALL LEVELS. What I'm proposing is actually not a change to how any GML should be reviewing TK right now, it's just not spelled out. I'm simply saying we need verbiage in the CRL that somehow states that you can't construct an Anovos or AP or WTF or any other kit that is SUPPOSED to have cover strips with an overlap construction. People try to do overlap on Anovos and then use the CRL to justify that overlap is "allowed" at Basic and L2. It's actually ONLY allowed for FX and MonCal and other kits that have the cover strips moulded in. So I'm proposing language that somehow just reinforces the fact that you can't construct an Anovos kit with overlap construction at ANY level and be approved. FX and MonCal and others with cover strips in the mold would not apply. That's why I tried to word it very specifically. I think Paul gets it and says it's in the works so we're good to go. This is just a clarification to how we are enforcing builds but where the CRL could use a clarification so there is no misunderstanding. Thanks!

Sorry yes this was only regarding ANH Stunt

Good morning all, Not really sure to put this but I have a recommendation around the CRL that I wanted to get some feedback on. The current CRL lists this statement at level three certification (Centurion): "Overlap construction is not allowed" I understand the history, that some kits like early MonCal were moulded to emulate the cover strips and meant to be constructed using an overlap construction method for thighs, shins, forearms and biceps. The problem now is that most of the kits produced are not moulded to be overlap construction, and yet I am continually getting into a semantic argument (even with tenured members) about cover strip requirement. I'd like to see a simple statement in the CRL that says "Overlap construction only allowed for kits molded with cover strips included - kits intended to constructed with cover strips (i.e., Anovos, AP, WTF and others) MUST be constructed using butt-join and cover strip method." I know the CRL can't address everything, but the language used seems to imply that overlap construction is acceptable for anything under Level Three. It's enough of an issue that I'd love to see the above simple statement added just to eliminate these arguments. In the end, I tell the applicants not everything can be addressed in the CRL and I do require the cover strips, but I've had some really chippy arguments, including one with former command staff who insists the semantics of this CRL allow for overlap at Basic even on Anovos. Would be interested in thoughts from others. I'd really LOVE to see this addition to the CRL to clear up the confusion about overlap construction. Thanks!

Just a suggestion on the lenses to not fit them completely flush. Leave some gap - this allows air flow and helps prevent fogging.

Really good post! One thing I always do at armor parties if there are first-timers there is to start with an overview of the armor and do a full kit up and kit down. Many times this is the first exposure for someone seeing the armor in real life and how it all goes together. I've found this to be a very helpful part of armor parties. I've also started including mini workshops at every armor party with a "guest speaker" from our Garrison. Topics have included costume weathering, sewing, and prop painting/weathering. This has encouraged participation from those not just working on armor, and has led to more information and skill sharing in our Garrison.

I found a unique solution for this because I wanted no gap but I also wanted no shifting between the pieces. So I put in the rivets and snap required but they are just for show. To connect ab to kidney, I use velcro plates. I put 2" strip of loop side on the inside of ab and also inside of kidney, so there's basically a 2" wide section of velcro along the whole side of each part. Then I took parking sign and made a 4" plate that I put the hook side of the velcro on. So these plates sit inside the ab/kidney connection on each side, velcroing 2 inches of each side together. It holds really nice, prevents shifting, and allows me to kit up with the pieces aligned perfectly and then they don't move during troop. I could never get the straps to close as perfectly as I wanted so this was what I came up with.

Anovos at $450 is a good deal. Don't bother with the soft goods you can find better stuff for cheaper. Neck seal, gloves and bodysuit are NOT a $200 venture. More like $100 and you'll have better quality. The plastic of Anovos is thinner than other armor, and can be prone to cracking or stress marking. However, I built Anovos for my daughter and it has held up well over the past year. I personally have AP armor and it is substantially thicker. WTF has been getting a lot of love around my Garrison as well. I would suggest reaching out to the vetted makers via email to get a feel for current pricing and wait listing. Have fun on your journey to armor!

With the Anovos kit you will need to straighten out the bridges on the back plate to get some length out of it. Anovos has a really sharp curve at the top of the back plate and it cheats you out of a good 1" of length. You can fix this by taking return edge down to minimum around collar and around shoulder bridges on back plate and then using a boiling water bath to straighten out that curve. That will allow the back plate to ride lower on your back and gain you length. Have fun with your build!

Hi Jason welcome aboard! As you may have seen by now there are a TON of resources out there and your first step should be to mine all of them - I spent a good two months looking at build threads, reading all the beginner information here in the "Getting Started" section, finding my local Garrison and reaching out to them, looking through EIB and Centurion submission threads, and comparing the 4 armorers I had narrowed my search down to personally (starting from the list in the vetted armor makers thread). That's the best advice I can give you. You CAN put together Stormtrooper armor regardless of your current skill set. But you will have to do the majority of the work and much of that isn't the actual cutting of plastic itself - it's research. You'll want to be very familiar with all the pieces and how they should look, how they fit on a person and how they go together. Dig in and just start chewing through information. Ask questions in threads and narrow down your armor search. Reach out to those armorers via email and get a feel for their pricing and wait times. And start making a list of all the other accessories you will need for build and completed costumes - the lists are mostly in the "Getting Started" section. Enjoy the journey - the build is a big part of it!

Seconding imgur here - had to move to that for 3rd party hosting needs

On your question about thighs - all pieces fit relative to each other so it's best to do fittings with the other pieces and also with undersuit on not pants so you ensure you are getting proper and correct fit. That being said, thigh should be high enough but there should be space between cod and thigh. Also a bit of space between thigh and knee. check screen reference photos. Short troopers may have less space, taller troopers more. In general, I put my thigh on so that I can bend my leg and just feel the bottom of my thigh at the back of knee. But I'm taller so I have to kind of split the difference between cod and knee gap and ensure I'm relatively even and proportional. Hope that helps!

Great progress here! Things are looking really good!

Sewing is such a helpful skill! I am envious of my Garrison mates who are nimble with that machine. Good luck on your build! Sounds like you have a great skill set for this!

Look at you go James! Great to see you at the build party and nice looking rough cut! More armor parties soon and I will keep an eye on your thread!

Good looking armor Nate! Great advice here, just wanted to add that hand painting your helmet is totally doable. I personally stayed with decals for tube stripes just because I wasn't confident in my ability to nail those, but the traps and tears were all totally doable and it makes your helmet really shine!

AWESOME! I built two kits myself when I started out in just under 9 weeks. Anovos for my daughter and AP for myself. Every spare minute I had I was sanding or cutting or dremeling or glueing or unglueing or riveting. I think I had ABS dust permanently in my nose for much of that time. Enjoy the process it is really fun.

Thighs can be trimmed at the top, you just want to follow the contour line of the armor so that the shape remains the same. I like to just be able to bend my leg at the knee without significant interference from the armor. You can also make cuts in the bottom back of thigh and top back of shin for mobility if necessary. You do see those crescent-shaped cuts on film. As for the back of thigh size - you can shim there, or if it is more like 1/2" you can probably get away with just covering with cover strip and backing on the inside with a strip. Make sure you are fitting with your undersuit on and not over jeans or shorts. All fitting should be done exactly as the armor will be worn (shoes on, undersuit on). That way you get the real correct fit. Hope that helps!

I built my AP to Centurion status and LOVE the armor. That sniper plate though! What a wrestling match - haha!

Good job Brian! On the thigh ammo belt also just get a little white paint on the rivet heads. I used a little dab of E6000 in the center inside of mine to ensure it doesn't droop down. Also as a general rule for finishing on the cover strips you can do a little 45 degree clip on each corner so it's not a sharp corner. Just a tiny little clip off of each corner will help to prevent snags.