Pyrates

Now here are the preliminary results before adding the other 2 - (2" wide black elastic) straps on either side

The next day I positioned the "B" bracket into the spot that would allow just enough space to bend but not leave a big gap (2mm) Got the "B" bracket secured and again allowed to sit for 24 hours

Time to install the "A" bracket on the kidney plate and let it cure as it will help to determine where the "B" bracket should be secured. I made sure to use a lot of e-6000 when anchoring the piece.

It will be a pleasure to meet you both and I'm really looking forward to it!

Back in a few - have to feed wee man

I cut a piece 5-1/8" long and 2-3/4" wide and got to work centering and installing snaps

Time to measure what is needed:

Now for my new idea: I have noticed on a few Centurion applications the gap between the posterior plate and the kidney plate getting marked for correction. So to combat this I have done things a little differently. Here the progress which imo yeilded a great flexible result while maintaining rigidity. Remember the roll of 1mm rubber floor matting I tried to use on make a neck seal from - well here it is again Front side: Reverse Side:

Snap plate assembly line: I'm making all of my snap plates from my left over abs cover strips. Each backing being sanded down to give more surface area for the E-6000 to bond to making them quite solid.

More build progress pics - these will be the last of my clamping photos as I'm tired of taking them, then not being satisfied with the end result and ripping them apart again. Helpful tip: Get 3 tubes of E-6000 for your build

Speaking of handlers earlier - I've started working on the emperor and she's now thinking about it.

What type of glue: Contact cement, heavy duty epoxy or Zap'a'gap with zip kicker - Home Depot/ Lowes/ Rona/ Canadian Tire /Hobby Shop What Bondo to use: "Bondo Automotive Body Filler" or "Bondo ultimate" - I have also heard of great success using "Green stuff" which I believe is similar to our fix-it-stik - Locations: Princess Auto [emoji48] , Part Source & Canadian Tire What grits of sandpaper: I would recommend the standard papers we use for our builds an 80, 120, 200, 400, 600, 1500 and for finishing touches and a sheen 2500 which can be bought a jewelry suppliers the others you can get at... Princess Auto for dirt cheap (hee, hee, hee)

I will get pics to help explain and get suggestions my friend - Peter ran into the same problem on his build for his sister - he used a heat gun but I'm not so daring. And thanks Captain!

I was originally going to keep them closed as well, using white "dap" silicone to seal the gap but learned from my handler/photographer experience that having some extra storage could potentially save from loss of keys and you can never have too much back-up power.

A brilliant idea Angie (Fist bump)! If I may, can I suggest using a baby or toddler sock instead - this way it doesn't fray as much from frequent use? Another thing too - I have never read or seen a thread like that so you should do a mod thread showing your process[emoji6][emoji106]

Should be very close

There is also a problem with my shin closures on the back and I had to rip out the velcro and these as well are due for a hot tob and a re-approach at a new fastening system to keep them closed. Not sure yet - so I'm putting them on the back burner. More to follow tomorrow - time to crash - cheers my friends and great building!

It has been noted by other AP recruits that the sniper knee plate doesn't co-operate so nicely when being fitted to the left shin. Now I wished I had used the hot tub before starting to anchor that bad boy so I would recommend Kris's approach (great job mate) on his build thread: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35918-hasos-anh-stunt-tk-build-ap-armour/ This is my current approach:

This is why you don't work on your armor till 1am in the morning - I accidentally cut my left shin 1/8" too short leaving a 1/4" gap in the middle - No worries though - simply installed an inner cover strip and pasted the gap at the top. Granted this area gets covered by the sniper plate but as you probably know by now hidden stuff doesn't stop me

Next I'm attaching elastic to the top of the inner drop box to be fastened to the outer drop box to prevent it from dropping open so this is on hold till it's cured.

Later I will paint the rivets white and add a buffer on the back to preventing the drop box from bumping against the thigh armor making scratches.

Using Tony's thread again, I began making my straps for the drop boxes. 10" worked perfectly and I re-purposed my AP rivets as fasteners giving imo a really clean look.

Right then the ammo belt: As noted there is a approximate 1/8" difference between the the inner and outer drop box. Like other troopers have done I am converting mine into mini-storage compartments to hold my keys and back batteries. I will be lining them with a thin layer of foam or soft side velcro to keep whatevers inside from making noise and moving around. Items of value will be kept in a neck wallet that hangs around the neck under my neckseal. First let's take care of the gap: Cut down some soft side velcro and installed it so that it was recessed and not visible from the side To tighten things up a bit more and create a partial hinge I cut a small piece of "fastening side" velcro and fastened it to the inside bottom of the outer drop box

I ran into problems with the shin closures too - had to rip out my Velcro strips and don't want to risk the heat gun - might have to use the hot tub on them