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Thrawn's guard

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Everything posted by Thrawn's guard

  1. You're very welcome Gary. I look forward to seeing them on your build.
  2. Thanks Mike. I'm just glad that I have been able to contribute to this thread in a positive manner. It really is the most helpful reference for anyone starting out on a blaster build.
  3. If you mean the electrical connections show in Litchbringer's post above I purchased mine from a retail chain called Maplin in the UK. Post 173 on page 9 of my thread shows the packaging and exact reference. I believe that Twnbrother found some of these in the US so maybe he will be able to tell you which US store they are available in.
  4. Just a quick update guys. I have been playing about with printing a few front sight housings and my printer is struggling a little to print the model with the horizontal hole. The issue here is that because the top of the hole is so close to the top of the housing the top layer of plastic tends to have some small holes. Looking back at my build thread, (page 7), I had a similar issue at the time so found the easiest option was to just fill any minor holes in the top with a small piece of green stuff (See photo below). Once painted this is not visible. The other option would be to make the horizontal hole a smaller diameter however this is sized to accommodate a grub screw. A better 3D printer may not have a problem with this anyway.
  5. @ Carl (Dougal), Joseph (justjoseph63), Scott (Charlesnarles) and David (=Sv3=) I wasn’t thinking of trying to make any money on these models it was more a case of looking to help as many other members of the FISD as possible. If you are struggling to find someone to print off any of these models I don’t have a problem printing some off myself and posting them on. I don’t know much about the cost of international postage, especially on small items such as these, however assuming that the costs are not too much I would be happy to just post them on and cover the postage myself. @ Chris (themaninthesuitcase) the same applies to you however rightly or wrongly I understand that you either have a 3D printer or have access to one so are more interested in the models themselves. PM me if required guys.
  6. I have now added the download links for the 3D models for the trigger, front sight housing,folding stock cube detail and the inner bolt slot extension in .stl format (The format generally used for 3D printers). A link for the wings3D format files will be added soon so that anyone with the software can open up the model to view, measure from, amend etc. I will also provide .stl and wings3D format files for the power cylinders once I have double checked that I have the correct files to hand.
  7. Having successfully completed my DoopyDoos E11 blaster build I have been looking back at my build thread and note that there were a few items that I modelled and printed off on a 3D printer. In the spirit of trooper helping trooper I will be making all of these 3D models, as listed below, available to download so that anyone can print them off, or have them printed off, if they so wish for their own build. I will make the wings3D file available shortly. 1) Replacement trigger (I accidentally broke my resin trigger as shown in my build thread). With a little sanding after printing the trigger looks and works exactly like the original resin cast trigger. 2) A front sight housing. 3) The folding stock cube detail. 4) Inner bolt slot extension (basically used to make the inner bolt look the correct diameter. EDIT 1 - .stl format download links added. EDIT 2 - .stl and Wingd 3D files added for the power cylinders (Further files in both formats to follow for the individual parts) Trigger 3D file in .stl format https://app.box.com/s/svkcik6yf0000p92a77avioesjlqvhnm Front sight housing 3D file in .stl format https://app.box.com/s/1k3usljnmde2mog6obs1p84u5rek3kvn Folding stock cube detail 3D file in .stl format https://app.box.com/s/v5374ni775r8oizx9f8oz7irbmpjefyf Inner bolt slot extension 3D file in .stl format https://app.box.com/s/vgib5dbeao6db6rs745rwm5jg018g0hw 1 – Replacement trigger 2 – A front sight housing 3 – The folding stock cube detail 4 - Inner bolt slot extension During the course of my build I also modelled a set of power cylinders. I scratch built my power cylinders from a number of materials however before I started to cut and carve I thought that producing a model would provide me with a visual check and to also allow me to take measurements as and when needed. I did not put the model for the power cylinders together with 3D printing in mind as I envisaged that this may be a difficulty item to print without substantial support in any event I wanted to build as much as I could in metal therefore I don't know how easy or difficult it would be to print but I have found it most useful for reference. I will shortly also be able to release the 3D models for all to refer to, use, edit and even try to print from if they wish. I will have a couple of versions of the model as noted below: - Version 1 - All components combined in to a single model. Version 2 - The model is separated in to the individual components allowing people to use and/or edit as they wish. Power cylinder version 1 3D file in .stl format https://app.box.com/s/wtl8s7rz7n96iontfglpz5thlo1b7k68 Power cylinder version 1 3D file in Wings3D format https://app.box.com/s/zpr0jcbd2ddxdjmizc9uqyd1vpkcqdtx The 3D models were created the in a 3D modelling package called Wings3D which is completely free software available to download. If anyone is interested the software can be downloaded from the following site: - http://www.wings3d.com/?page_id=84 I can provide the data files for the model in Wings3d format however other formats including .stl which seems to be universal for all the 3D software that I have come across are also available. I include below a render of the latest 3D model so that you can see what is included and how it looks together.
  8. Hi Chris you've made some good progress here. One quick observation, if you still have the opportunity to amend it, is that the top of the sight pin is a little too high. It shouldn't be higher than the top of the sight guard.
  9. Thanks Ryan glad you like it and hope the build thread comes in useful.
  10. Great work so far Nick. I look forward to seeing how you progress.
  11. Well having finished my blaster build I thought that I would take this opertunity thank everyone who has contributed to this thread in particular Mike (Twinbrother), Dennis (Trooper), T-Jay (Tino), Brian (Bulldog44), Dan (AgeOfStrife), Scott (Charlesnarles), Aaron (usaeatt2) and Ian (Sith Lord) for some great advice, suggestions and information along the way. Apologies for anyone else that I have not mentioned. I also thought that whilst I was writing I would provide some final summarizing thoughts about my build. Firstly I am very happy with what I have been able to do and hope that others take some inspiration from either this or other build threads and have a go themselves as it is a most rewarding exercise. Looking back at my build thread I ask myself would I do anything different if I was to carry out another build? The honest answer is probably not too much. I would be tempted to have a go at installing a three position rotary switch for the selector switch and perhaps look at some form of electronics but other than that probably not too much. The part that I am most happy with however is the scope. At one stage I was thinking what on earth have I done….I have cut a perfectly good scope in to a number of pieces but in the end I love what I ended up with. Reading through the build I have a number of items that I have 3D printed and I will shortly be providing separate thread/threads where I will make these files available for whoever wants them. I did intend to do this sooner but unfortunately have been very busy at work.
  12. Hi Magnus there are a numbers of different suppliers of E11 blasters but first of all you need to decide what you are after. <br><br><br> I assume from what you say above this is a blaster that you intend to troop with rather than just display.<br><br><br> Are you looking for a fully finished blaster and if so do you have a preference between say a rubber blaster that can be dropped without damage, a metal blaster which will very heavy to troop with or perhaps a plastic or resin blaster.<br><br><br> If you are happy to have a go at building a kit you could look at a Doopydoos resin kit. There are a number of build threads that you can look at to see what can be achieved. For example my build thread noted on my signature is based on one of these kits.<br><br><br> There are also pipebuild kits available, such as Phoenix props, which also provide very realistic results and can be purchased from Dday a member on this forum.<br><br><br> I'm sure someone with a more detailed list will be along soon and can give you more detailed information (Unfortunately I'm not at home at the moment so don't have easy access to all information).<br><br> EDIT Looks like Brian already provided you with some great tips whilst I was typing my response
  13. I certainly do Ian. I think that I have narrowed it down to either RS Propmasters or Troopermaster armour. Hopefully I'll get this on order soon though I have no idea at this stage how long a armour build using these kits will take.
  14. Thanks for all of the positive feedback guys it really has been a pleasure both building the blaster and comparing and discussing details with everyone who has contributed on this build thread.<br><br> I'm sure that I wouldn't have been able to produce anything near as detailed and accurate without the amazing level of advice provided and the numerous other great build examples on here.<br><br> I will certainly look to use the knowledge I have gained to help others.
  15. Well at last my build is finally finished so thought that I'd share a couple of quick photos of the finished blaster. I also intended to eat the 2 packets of Haribo bears provided in Tino's completion set and counter in celebration however I only managed to eat a single bear as my two daughters had different ideas and wiped them all out in a fraction of a second. I'll put together some more finished pictures along with some closing comments and thoughts as soon as I can however in the meantime I hope that my build thread is of some use to other builders and shows that someone with very little prior experience in this sort of thing can put together a decent blaster so long as they are prepared to carry out research and put some time aside.
  16. Thanks everyone for all of the positive feedback it really means a lot. Thanks Ian for your thoughts. I have decided to go for this position.
  17. I formed the wing plates by using a sharp craft knife to cut out two small strips of ABS plastic (I used part of the sheet supplied in Tino’s completion set. These were then glued in to place using E6000 glue. Once the glue had dried I painted all the power cylinder assembly with bolt gun metal paint (except for the red textile insulation and the underside of the base plate). A flat black paint was then applied to everything including the textile insulation however I ensured that some small areas of the textile insulation were left unpainted as was the case on the screen used blasters. I found when placing the power cylinder assembly on the top of the magazine that the two resistors closest to the receiver were too close to the magazine release switch and as a result were preventing it from being operated. I overcome this issue by applying a small amount of E6000 glue to the rear of the back plate and side of the resistor closest to the plate and pushing the two together and holding in place for a couple of minutes. This moved the resistors sufficiently to allow me to place the power cylinders on top of the magazine where I had planned without them getting in the way of the switch. Looking at various photographs it can be seen that the resistors were not generally neatly placed in a straight line so if anything I think this minor modification makes the blaster a little more screen accurate. The final stage was to lightly weather the power cylinders using a fine sand paper on the painted surfaces. As far as I understand from my research the power cylinders were placed on the magazine both in line with the end face of the magazine and in line with the barrel. My personal opinion however is that because these are not part of a targeting system they wouldn’t need to point towards the target and as such it makes more sense to me to position them in line with what they are connection to (The magazine). Before I glue these in to position I would however be interested to know what other people’s opinion on this subject is. Below I have taken a series of photographs showing the power cylinders in place.
  18. I managed to find some resistors similar to the ones that Aaron told me about previously and purchased them via mail order which arrived earlier today (These resistors are 9.7mm long and have a diameter of 3.4mm). Looking at some of the reference pictures available on the FISD forums I understand that there are a number of different variations for the arrangement of the resistors at the rear of the power cylinders however I opted to go for an arrangements with four resistors. As far as I can see the wires connecting the resistors and the fuses have textile insulation which only occurs only where the wires are likely to touch each other. In other words there are also short sections of wire without insulation. Taking this in to account I have arranged the insulated sections of the wires so that the bare wire is always located next to an insulated section. I’ll try to explain how I produced the resistors detail on my build. Firstly I cut one of the long wire sections on a resistor to approximately 6mm long. I then took a section of the textile covered wire provided in Tino’s completion set and pushed the longer section of wire, with a little glue on it, in to the insulated wire. Note that I had removed the copper strands to allow me to push the new wire in to position. One quick tip is that if you apply a little glue to the end of the textile wire as soon as you cut it and then roll it between your fingers the glue prevents the textile insulation from fraying (My first attempt disintegrated as I worked with it. You can see in the photograph above how the insulation starts to fray. I then took another resistor and cut the wire section a little longer. Taking the end of this section of wire I applied a little glue and pushed it in to the other end of the textile insulated wire however this time I only pushed it part way in so that I had a section of bare wire approximately 4mm long still showing. This process was repeated so that I had another arrangement consisting of two resistors and a section of connecting wire. I then cut the sections of wire which come out of the lower two fuses and angles them so that they touched the bare sections of wire between the resistors. Taking a section of the insulated wire it was cut to length so that it could be bent from the end of the top fuse to the section of bare wire next to the outer pair of resistors. I pushed and glued a short section of wire in to the end of the textile wire and once secure cut off all but 2mm of this wire. This wire is then pushed in to the hole in the end of the top fuse. The other end was then glued on to the section of bare wire on the outer pair of resistors. I still have the small wing plates to add I then intend to paint everything with a bolt gun metal paint, (Except for the red insulation wire), before applying a flat black.The power cylinders should then be ready to attach on to the blaster.
  19. I now have my resistors for the rear of the power cylinders ordered so hopefully they will arrive sometime this weekend and I can crack on with completing this build. To be honest I will be a little sad to finish as it has been very enjoyable however I am also looking forward to having a 100% completed E11.
  20. Harold I can testify that Steve's resin magazine referenced by Ian, (Sith Lord), is a excellent product and the one that i have used for my own build.
  21. Aaron - Very nice work. Due to your hard work you now have a fantastic and individual E11 blaster. I look forward to seeing what you do with your power cylinders.
  22. I know what you mean about the paint Brian but I'm sure once I do apply the paint it will be OK. Hi Ian I'll double check the height but am pretty sure that is is correct. If I do need to lower it I can connect the base plate to the side of the end plate which will drop it down in the region of 1.5mm.
  23. I did manage to get a little extra done yesterday namely the installation of the wire to the front of the power cylinders though this proved to be a little fiddly. I removed the wires from the front of the fuses one by one, bent them to shape, (so that they would pass from the front of the fuse to the holes in the wing plate), before cutting them to length. I then carefully applied a small amount of glue to the ends of the wire (the ends of the wire were inserted in to the front of the fuse and wing plate).
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