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Chills

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Posts posted by Chills

  1. Interesting, one of the TKs had that problem at our last troop. And I get feedback if my amp is turned up a bit too high. Turning down the volume always gets rid of it for me. I have a tendency to want to turn up the Aker volume high, because it always sounds soft to me. I end up having it a little lower than I think is ideal, but I've asked other troopers when I'm out, and they say the volume sounds great. 

     

    Try the volume and see if that helps.

  2. Thanks guys! I fixed the three things gaz mentioned in the EIB (back/kidney overlap, rear thigh cover strips, and cod rivet paint) so I have my fingers crossed.

     

    Yep, my back/chest are not connected to the ab/kidney. I used suspenders for the latter. For the former I used the usual shoulder webbing and side elastic. Suiting up is pretty easy, so is packing. Plus I can rotate my upper body and bend a little more than if they were attached.

     

    For the arms I ran elastic from the biceps through bridges in the bells. This attaches to an identical clip from the other arm across my chest. This makes the bells free floating yet they always stay in place no matter how I move my arms. They also don't put any weight on the back/chest connection straps.

  3. eBay is tempting... it is the quick and easy path, more seductive as Yoda would say. But there's a reason the vetted sellers are on this board; they make great armor. Also, the veterans here always warn against eBay armor for a reason; It just isn't worth if your goal is to have real movie-quality stormtrooper armor. 

     

    Unwatch the item, the PM one of the sellers. Get on a list and start the countdown for your big brown box! 

     

     

    :smiley-sw013:

  4. Name: Christopher Hills

    TK: 51114
    Forum Name: Chills
    Garrison: Midwest Garrison
    Armor Maker: Troopermaster
    Helmet Maker: Troopermaster
    Blaster Type: Doopydoos with T-Jay upgrade kit

    Height: 5'8"
    Weight: 180 lb
    Boots Maker: TKboots
    Canvas Belt: gazmosis
    Hand Plates: sonnenschein
    Neckseal Type: Darman

    Electronics: Aker amp
    Holster Maker: gazmosis

     

    EIB application thread: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32089-tk-51114-requesting-anh-stunt-eib-status-tm479/

     

     

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    Obligatory Death Star Room shot

     

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    • Like 1
  5. The cover strip measurements are 15mm for the arms, 20mm for the front of the legs and back of the thighs and 25mm for the rear of the calves. 

     

    Though I've never seen reference photos of canon armor measurements to substantiate what I've been told on a few occasions, by those who've been involved in armor accuracy for years. Unless proven otherwise, this is what I go by.  

     

     

    Interesting. I've been told it was 20mm for leg fronts and 25mm for leg rears. I've seen that in a few threads, too. I'll have to look around to find them.

     

    As far as the internal cover strips, I've done only 3 troops in my armor, and on one 5 hour troop one of my external cover strips came loose at the very top. I was glad to have the internal one as a backup. A week and a half ago we did a parade, marched just over 2 miles, and they all held up well. 

     

    Is the internal necessary? Maybe not, but I like having redundancy and they sure to help with strength of the armor. 

    • Like 1
  6. +1 for internal cover strips. They make the armor look better and give it a lot more strength.

     

    Your armor is looking good so far. Keep up the good work and don't be afraid to glue with e6000. You can pull the pieces off and remove the glue. I used it on all my exterior cover strips and nylon snap plates. I used super glue on the interior strips and ABS snap plates.

     

    Hey Tony, aren't the cover strips for the thigh backs also 25mm?

  7. Woohoo!!! Thanks Steve!!!

     

    Yes, I definitely plan on submitting my Centurion. 

     

     

    Regarding the back armor, no problem, I can adjust that. I think some of the overlap is because of my height, but I can definitely fix it so it meets Centurion requirements.

     

    The white has already been scraped off the split rivet on the cod. I need to take another picture and I'll use that one. 

     

    As for the thigh strips, no problem at all. I used E-6000 to glue them on, so I can adjust them. I tried lining them up with the calf strips, and they ended up off-center. I'll get that knocked out.

     

    :salute:

     

    And thanks for the compliment on the shims and helmet.  :duim:

     

    The elastic strap on the butt-plate is to help keep it down. In addition to having large legs, I have some junk in the trunk, so the plate sticks out some. During my first troop I noticed that the three top straps and the crotch strap didn't keep the plate in place very well when I walked. So I added the elastic, which come across my front, and holds it down quite well. 

  8. Its more than just cosmetic, it's molded wrong. The front traps don't have the proper size, and they should be indented. The tears are totally the wrong shape, the indentation should follow the painted part. The helmet looks too narrow, too. The area under the eyes is rounded instead of sharp edged. The sharp edge where the tubes meet the front (the line extending down from the frown) is non-existent, also. 

     

    Here's a troopermaster helmet. You can see the difference.

     

     

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  9. Thanks everyone. My fingers are crossed....

     

    Good suggestions, Scott. Those are things I thought of, as well, but there's really no room to play with in the thighs or calves. Both are skin-tight. If I tried to get the front bottom thigh back, the top front would rotate  out too far, and the top back would dig into my hamstring. Also, to get the plate on the greave to come forward I'd have to add shims to the back... they are tight against my leg, too. :mellow:

     

    The back overlaps the kidney a very slight amount because I'm short (5'8" on a good day.  ;) ). I had to modify the upper shoulder sections of the back armor by heating them and bending them down a lot to get the piece to sit as high as it is. You can see on the side pictures (arms down) that they still float up a bit. 

  10. Thanks for compliment, Joseph; and your input is much appreciated. The thighs are a tough one for me. After years of mountaineering and backpacking my leg muscles are really big. I had to put in 1.5" shims on the backs of the thigh armor, because of how thick they are. Also, my calves are so big I had to use ever millimeter of plastic TM provided for those pieces. So, anatomically, my knee plate will always be behind my thigh; my muscle sticks out that much.

     

    Also, the uneven-ness is a result of that, too. I try to get them to be even, but there's very little space to work with between my legs, LOL, and one always slides. However, I could re-take the pics so they're even. 

     

    Thanks for the advice about the paint on the cod piece rivet. For some reason I thought it had to be white. I do plan on going for Centurion.  :duim:

  11. Basic Information

    Name: Christopher Hills

    LegionID: 51114

    Forum Name: Chills

    Garrison: Midwest Garrison

     

    Mandatory Information 

    Armor Maker: TM

    Helmet Maker: TM

    Mic Tips: TM

    Blaster Maker: Doopydoos with T-Jay upgrade kit

     

    Optional Information: 

    Height: 5'8"

    Weight: 180 lbs

    Boots Maker: TK boots

    Canvas Belt: gazmosis

    Hand Plates Type: Karin's ANH stunt handguards

    Neck seal Type: Darman

    Holster Maker: gazmosis

    Build Thread: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31099-chills-build-anh-stunt-tm-armor/

     

    PHOTOS:

     

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