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Chills

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Posts posted by Chills

  1. Agree with the others, that will work just fine. Make sure you use washers on the back, the rivets will rip right through TK plastic. 

     

    Just one note, you don't have to rivet your holster to your belt, but you can. I opted to use Chicago screws and I'm glad I did. It makes transporting the belt easier since I can take the thick-leather holster off. 

  2. Yep, you'll have a bit of return edge on the bicep. The pencil mark is a good start place to cut. You want to make sure the entire part that curves out away from the return edge (the extra plastic from the molding process) is removed. If you look at the picture you can see where there is a bit of white between your pencil mark and the shadow for your return edge. You want to cut up to that. 

  3. I have large thighs and had to build some decent shims for my armor. To get Centurion you'll need to shim the gaps and use a 25mm cover strip on the rear. Like Sly said, you'll need to make ABS paste to join the shim to the armor. It takes some working, but the paste is a great solution to adding plastic to the armor. What I did is use two strips under the shim to hold each side in place. After multiple applications and sandings of the ABS paste I put on the rear cover strip. At this point it is only used for authenticity sake, and doesn't do anything to strengthen the armor. The ABS paste works as a weld, and is pretty damn strong.

     

    The front should still have a 20mm cover strip.

     

    Here are a few pics of my process:

     

    The shim being glued into place

    cIBOvJ5.jpg

     

    Early application of ABS paste (lots of trial and error on how to use it right)

    0RdPpYd.jpg

     

     

     

    One side finished. The other is partially covered by the cover strip

    q9Upj3o.jpg

  4. Germain has it right. For the wrist end of your forearm I recommend that you use scissors to cut where your red line is and then a dremel to take the edge up to Germain's blue line; shave just a little bit at a time. 

     

    Also, don't forget to cut those edges off from the mold along the length of the pieces. There shouldn't be any curve outward; this will help when you're mating the to halves together. 

  5. Man.......the TK pics on the front page of that website look horrible.  Maybe I'm just going by 501st standards and not the typical person in the public, but even before discovering the 501st, I would think that anyone looking at the TK's on that website would think something was off!  The construction of the buckets look absolutely horrendous!

     

    That's the first thing that struck me: the three TKs on the front page all have different shaped helmets. I hope anyone who's not familiar with the 501st sees that as a big red flag.

  6. I just finished my TM build a couple of weeks ago.

     

    http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31099-chills-build-anh-stunt-tm-armor/

     

     

    I totally know the trepidation you are feeling. First things first, did you mark all the places you want to cut excess plastic with a  pencil? Do that first, don't worry about messing up the marks, the pencil rubs right off.

     

    I marked ALL of the parts (except the helmet) and then started cutting the excess off with the popular curved lexan scissors. This armor is REALLY well made; its easy to cut and bends well. I suggest you make your cuts a couple of MM away from your marks, then use a sander to take down the rest. It's easy to see on most parts where you should trim the excess plastic, but if you have any questions post a picture and ask here.

  7. Hi John. Excellent thread. I've bookmarked this for my own build. Tino is sending his v1.9 kit next week, so I can get started. The E-11 is the only thing I have left to do before applying for EIB and Centurion. 

     

    QQ: what bit(s), for your Dremel, did you use to bore out the sections like the folding stock and the bolt?

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  8. That's an interesting idea, Brian, but would it work? The key to what you're showing in your picture is that the excess heat will be radiated from the coolant tubes out and away from the body, but where will it go? Those tubes will be completely covered in the black under suit which, in turn, is covered by plastic. To do an effective job of removing heat from the body you'd have to figure out a way to get the heat outside the plastic. 

     

    The other main obstacle is moisture. The system shown above won't do anything to remove the moisture that builds up under the plastic. Unless you get a nice breeze, there aren't many places for the sweat to escape and evaporate.

     

    Like gaz stated above, the best way to stay cool is stay well hydrated. 

     

    I hope I don't sound like a wet-blanket; it would suck to drop a chunk of $$ on a system that is ineffectual. 

  9. I did get my picture taken with a TK. it was awesome. My kids and I loved it. looking forward to getting started!!!!

     

    If it was in front of the Rebel Museum that would have been me.  :smiley-sw013:  It was my first troop and I am looking for pics... I took none! lol

     

    Have you decided on which armor to order?

  10. I wouldn't worry about identifying yourself in a TK line up. Once you finish building your armor you'll know each piece of plastic inside and out, and you can see the subtle differences which will let you identify yourself in a crowd. 

     

    I did my first troop last weekend and there were about 150 troopers there of ALL costumes; and I was surprised at how easy it was to pick me out in the crowd. 

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