justjoseph63

This.... looks... FANTASTIC! Well worth all that effort, Adam. Your OCTKD is in full-on mode... (welcome to the club). Looking forward to the next batch of photos!

Thanks! This is what comes from having entirely too much time on my hands and an overindulgence in diet Mountain Dew.

The Greeblies First up is the one that is attached to the barrel to the rear of the magazine well. It is listed as a "Nakata Browning M 1935..replica firing block" (1). However, the one shown here (1) does not have all the characteristics of the screen used images, There are 2 small curves in the corners of the top opening and 2 holes in the front (2 & 3). The one I received with the kit was way too long and lacked many details, so .... 1 2 3 since these haven't been made in many years, I turned to the person who has imo the most accurate designs anywhere- Germain @The5thHorseman . His designs are legendary and he hooked me up with the file of what has to be the best representation you can get, down to the tiniest detail. (THANKS)! I had this printed, did some filling/sanding and of course I made a mold and cast it in resin. Next up, the hammers and top greeb.

Trigger area/Grip As seen in the first reference photo below (L2A3- ANH), the area under the selector switch has 2 levels, and the C1 version (second/third photos) is one solid piece. The last photo shows how this one looked at the start. To be honest, I was not going to touch this area... I mean, who the heck will notice something that trivial? ** And, the selector switch was printed onto that area. Ugh. But, as I went along (and even painted it) it bugged me to no end. So, I thought "In for a penny, in for a pound" and went to work. ** I would. Using a pointed Dremel attachment (2) I carefully drilled out the selector switch (3). The area was leveled out with the JB weld epoxy and sanded down (4). I wanted to get it a bit smoother so I used the Bondo glazing (5). Again, another sanding. I kept the selector switch, but had to add some of the epoxy to build up the bottom before filing/sanding it down (6). I drilled a hole in the switch and inserted a small nail, then drilled a hole in the area below it before attaching it back on. I still need a few coats of paint, but until then it looks passable (7). 2 3 4 5 6 7 On the right left hand side of the grip there is a hole to mount it to the base. In the L2A3 version this looks to be either a hex nut or a screw (1 & 2) depending on which reference you are looking at. BUT, the C1 has something different (3 & 4)). I used some black Sugru epoxy and a small ball bearing to get a similar effect. Again, a small detail but worth it IMO. 1 2 3 4 End result

Magazine well Another difference is the magazine well. The rear had the hole to mount the post that holds the grub screw and the raised triangle (3) on the side like ANH (2). After grinding down the triangle and filling the holes with JB weld (and sanding) it looks a lot closer. Reference 2 3 Finished

Rear sight This was fairly easy. Unlike the L2A3, the C1 version has tabs on the bottoms of each side, so some scrap ABS and a little filler took care of that. The sides appear to have socket-head cap screws in the centers, but they do not (at least as far as I can tell) go all the way through the sight (3). I cut down two (4) and just CA glued them into the holes. Done deal. Reference 2 3 4 Finished

End cap / clip The end cap clip on the C1 version is completely different than the L2A3 (as is the end cap itself). The clip on the 3D print (2) was not correct and integrated on the print, so I used the Dremel to remove it and ended up making one from scrap ABS (3). The bottom of the cap/D-ring mount (4) needed a small arc cut out (easy) and I added a rivet. Yes, I know I made the clip a bit too long and the arc a bit too deep. (I hope this won't affect me at Centurion level if I build a set of ROTJ armor). Reference 2 3 4 5

Folding stock mount As seen in the reference images, the stock mount is completely different than the L2A3 type. Starting with the existing mount (3), I built it up with the JB weld until I got it in the general shape I wanted (4). After sanding and to get the right shape, I removed the bottom (5) and added ABS pieces to the sides and bottom (6). References 3 4 5 6 End result

Too long! After joining the 3 pieces of the shroud, I noticed that it was actually about 5/8ths of an inch (3 cm) too long and the flash guard sat too far forward (2). After sanding down the outside and a few coats of primer/filler I cut it down (3). Holes were filled with the JB weld epoxy/sanded smooth and I had to make a new flash guard out of ABS (4). (5) shows the original position. Reference 2 3 4 5

Main body The kit came with inside tubes to join the 3 pieces. Since the majority of then inserts will not be visible, I only sanded/filled/sanded the area that will be seen.

Ejection port opening This was integrated into the print (2). I used the Dremel to remove it and sanded down the edges (3). The connector piece (4) fit perfectly inside, but I had to sand down a section (#4-in yellow) so that I could add the "front" of the bolt (5) made from an ABS scrap, but I made that part too long. It's glued now so no changing it. I used a galvanized nail with the end rounded off and the top removed for the bottom. Reference 2 3 4 5

I've had some extra time on my hands, so I decided to build this to round out my OT trilogy E-11 collection. Since finding an MGC blaster** is like locating the Holy grail, I found the closest 3D print I could. I'm not going to list the designer of the file as unfortunately there are many things that are not as accurate as I would like since it's the "Battlefront" version. I'm sure it would be fine for approval at all levels when built as-is, but as usual I have to push the envelope. Will it be 100% accurate? Not really, but since it will be used for display only I am hoping to get as close as I can. I have my work cut out for me, but I am looking forward to the challenge! Any comments/suggestions are welcome. ** This version is based on the Sterling Mark V Canadian C1 type as opposed to the British L2A3, so there are quite a few differences. Know in advance that this will be crazy pic-heavy, and since I have to alter so many parts I will do them in separate posts and add after completion I will add links to each one at the bottom of this post. This way it will be easier to skip to the item when needed. So, on with the show: Supplies: 1. JB PlasticWeld- (A must have. Can be drilled/sanded/painted). 2. Bondo Glazing & Spot putty- Awesome stuff. 3. Rustoleum Primer/Filler (sandable) 4. Rotary tool (Dremel type) 5. Sanding drums 6. Needle files 7. Sandpaper (80 to 400 grit) 8. Scrap ABS pieces 1 2 3 4 5 6 Here is the kit in it's raw form printed in PETG. I missed a few of the small items, but the majority can be seen. Two BIG shout-outs to: Caleb @ticopowell for not only printing this kit for me, but helping me with the designs. Germain @The5thHorseman for the precise greeblie file. You guys are AWESOME!

Just wait until you see the ROTJ version I have been plugging away at. WAY more involved... (I really do need to get a life).

As Ryan said, it should have no problem passing at Basic approval, and I would have no issues passing it at E.I or Centurion. It's the color I used for mine.

Now to finish up.. The front/rear scope greebs have been CA (super) glued on, and to keep them secure I added wood screws from underneath. I countersunk the holes slightly to where the screw head would be flush with the bottom of the rail and would not be noticeable. For the rebar clips, I went with slotted pan head screws, as they look like the ones in the reference images. Reference Pan head (slotted) Finished product The screw on the rectangle greeb is a round-head star screw. I looked all over, but this is the closest I could come. CA glue added to keep it from twisting. The buttons and "swoop" were simply CA glued on. And here it is. I will painting the brass grip screw black and weathering it slightly as soon as the paint cures. Epilogue: Are there details that are not "ideal"? Absolutely. Will it pass at Centurion? I like to believe so, lol. Are there things that I would do differently? Probably, but I'm pretty pleased with the end result. Thanks for looking!! Since I have the molds now, if anyone wants a set of these greebs I can hook you up for around 11 bucks (including postage). PM me for more info. (Not shown actual size) NEXT UP! ROTJ build... EDIT: Completed ROTJ build can be found here.

Okay, time for the greeblies- I looked everywhere online for these, including Etsy, RPF etc. No luck. Seems strange that no one makes these (at least as accurate as I wanted) so after referencing and comparing the sizes from the official photos I ended up sculpting my own versions. I then made silicone molds and cast them in resin. Are they 100% perfect or exactly film accurate? Nope, but for my purposes I am happy with the way they turned out. Starting with the one on the front of the scope rail: According to this site, it was a button from a Sony Cassette Corder model TC-67. I don't think so. Sort of close, but no cigar. Here are the references from the ESB E-11 reference thread I went by- This is what I ended up with. Rear of the scope rail: No sites even attempt to explain what the heck these were, so I had to go by the references and hope for the best. References My version For the left side they used rebar clips, but after searching worldwide I don't think theses particular ones have been made in a LONG time. With the assistance of @ticopowell (THANKS, Caleb... you ROCK!) I ended up designing my own version, had them 3D printed, filled/smoothed them and cast them in resin. References My version The other right hand side greeb is this one. Fortunately, my local hardware store was having a sale on Boba Fett blaster pieces so I scored on this one. I am just kidding. Back to the sculpting board. References My version Now for the right hand side greebs. Pretty straightforward stuff here- A "swoosh" cut out of ABS and some buttons made from ABS. I made the buttons concave on one side to conform to the shape of the barrel. Last up is the scope. If using the Promo version, as per the CRL for Level 2 it must be the M-19 type. There are some pretty darned good ones you can find cast in resin (links below), but I decided to go with the metal version I found here (shown below). A great seller who I have bought a ton of stuff from. Resin versions- (link here and here). Next up, painting and mounting everything!

So here is the plan- I recently built a spare ANH E-11 from one of Bryan's crazy accurate 3D kits, (link here), but since I will need a blaster for my current ESB armor build I will eventually need a weapon, so I decided to convert it. In looking at the reference photos here, there are 2 main versions- one using an actual Sterling L2A3 and a resin type (Pugman). Note that there are also some really odd versions, but I am not sure of their background so I am not referencing them. Because I will be using the ANH version, mine will be a based on the Sterling. IMPORTANT! For those doing an ESB build, there are 2 versions of this blaster that can be used for approval. Neither has the Hengstler counter or power cylinders, and the differences can be found in the CRL here. This version is just more involved. Sterling L2A3 version Resin cast "Pugman" version (note scope rail) Materials: 1. JB Plastic Weld epoxy putty- When dry, this can be sanded, drilled and painted. AWESOME stuff! 2. Bondo Glazing/spot putty*** (for a smoother finish). 3. Sandpaper (various grits- 80 to 400) 4. Needle files 5. Dremel type rotary tool 6. Sanding drums 1. 2. 4. 5. 6. *** Please be aware that this product should only be used outdoors or in a well ventilated area. It is also highly suggested that you use a mask and gloves. All that being said, time to get down to business. In addition to the greeblies, there are a few issues on the main body that will need to be addressed: The first thing to do is grind off the end muzzle disc, as most of the references do not show one present. After removing the disc, I filled the holes where the screws were with the Plastic Weld putty (sorry, I lost the pics of the filled part), let it dry 4-5 hours and then filed/sanded it down. A thin coat of the glazing putty made it perfectly smooth. Note that I put the new holes in the top/bottom as opposed to the sides. Before References After grinding Finished After removing the D-ring/mounting plate**, some glazing putty, sanding and paint made for a smooth finish. **You may be able to pop it off with some pliers, but I had to grind mine down. The only other alteration I made to the body was to remove the small tubular part that holds the grub screw on the side of the magazine well. After Dremeling (is that even a word? lol) it off level and filling the hole with the Plastic weld, it was sanded and painted. Before References Detail- (This is from my ROTJ build, but it gives you an idea of what to remove. Keep the triangle part. Finished Next up, the greeblies... stay tuned

You might want to sand down the D-ring if possible before you paint it. Otherwise if when the paint chips off it will be gold instead of silver. Gotta' get me one of those saws!

Looking GREAT, Adam! Nice to see that you have the passion for accuracy, brother. As for replacing the folding stock I see one small issue (and maybe another down the way) but nothing that can't be remedied! The rear part of the actual stock looks like it was molded in to the base, as there is no pivot point. This can be fixed by using your Dremel to cut it down flat, though as seen in the third pic** **This is a detail from the ROTJ version I'm working on, but you get the picture. The other item is the catch that holds the stock to the shroud in the front... it will need to be able to latch onto the underside of the shroud to hold the stock in place. You will more than likely have to cut a notch in front of the forwardmost hole for the catch to grab onto. I know you mentioned that the tube is pretty thick, which may prohibit this from happening. Not to worry, though! You can thin down the thickness in that particular area with the Dremel (but just enough to where it will hold). I know this because I had the same exact issue with the ROTJ version I'm doing and it works fine. Since mine was a little on the thin side I reinforced the front of the tab with a thin piece of aluminum glued to the inside. Can you post up some pics showing the points where the existing stock is attached to the shroud?

I don't see an issue for Basic approval or maybe even Expert Infantry with the paint, but we prefer them to be a bit more on the round side, especially for Centurion. I know it's not easy (especially without templates) but many times using a Filbert style brush with a rounded tip can help give you those nice curves. The sides of the large plate are a bit uneven... not a huge deal, but the smaller plate could use some trimming as seen below. To keep the edges straight, try placing the sandpaper on a hard flat surface and rub the plates on it until you get a nice straight line. Side note: Don't round off the corners of the plates!

Welcome, Damien! Having a set of armor commission built is certainly an option, but building one yourself has advantages as well. The vast majority of us (myself included) had zero experience in this sort of thing when we first decided we wanted to become a TK, and yet thousands have done it successfully. Going the DIY route does take time and patience, but you know the fit will be perfect in the end and it will be something to be proud of. And, if you ever need to adjust or fix anything you won't have a problem as you know how it's put together! You also have an incredible resource on a local level with the fine folks in the UK Garrison, who I am sure will be happy to assist you. With either option you choose we are here to help every step of the way, so never be shy about asking questions. It's what we do!

I think what you have in the first photo is just dandy, Adam. Maybe a smidge lower, but I would have no issue passing that at L3 even as it is.

I personally prefer the squared off end, (see references above), but either is fine. It's all a matter of preference, and as long as it doesn't extend beyond the trap line (for ANH ESB) It's all good!

I usually suggest that it be squared off (or at least angled) with the rear line of the trap, as all the references seem to point that way. A bit too short is better than a bit too long and an easy fix. Note on a lot of ESB buckets that it was VERY short. Since many were re-used from ANH, I chalk this down to shrinkage in the 3 years they sat in storage. On the 50+ new buckets made for ROTJ they left it quite a bit longer, extending beyond the rear trap line. ANH ESB ROTJ

Quest Design makes IMO the best pre-built blaster out there. Lots of great details, but Tino's kit will bring it t the next level! By the way, I purchased a lot of Tino's stock and will be offering up the finishing kits at some point in the near future. I think one of the reasons they probably don't like to sell their product unassembled is that someone could re-cast the various parts. A few things I would suggest: 1. Make sure the Hengstler counter is in the "ideal" position. 2. It's not a big deal by any means, but the Philips head screws could be replaced with V-head screws and then the tops filled in as there were no screws on the trigger mount area. Side note: Philips head screws weren't used on TK blasters until ROTJ. 3. Assuming you will be making your own "fuses" for the center with Tino's kit, be extra careful when removing (grinding out) the ones that are cast into the present one, as well as the screws on the front of the power cylinders. My set up using Tino's kit Looking forward to seeing your progress, so take your time, ask lots of questions and I'm sure it will turn out spectacular!