justjoseph63

As flexible as the Anovos armor is, I don't know if it would be advisable to paint it, Eric. Your best bet would probably be to sand down the area using progressively finer sand paper until you get to an even surface. Then, you can use a 3 step scratch removal system, such as Novus. You can purchase a set of 3 small bottles for about $9.00 here: http://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7136-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UD0GIG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1455195261&sr=8-3&keywords=novus+plastic+polish.

Just a heads-up, Dave... For HWT, you won't need a holster! If you need connections for the pauldron and ammo packs just PM me.

Since you are going for Centurion, it works in your favor, Phil, because the overlap construction is actually not allowed for that level, so you are golden. The butt join just looks much better anyway, (in my humble opinion). With the AM kit you will have to cut your own cover-strips using the ABS sheets that come with it. Be sure to use clamps and a metal straight edge when doing this, and don't try to go fast or all the way through the plastic on the first cut. Better to make a few shallow cuts and then you can usually snap it off. Be SURE to sand the edges of the inside strips. If you don't, they can snag on your under suit. Also don't forget to sand the inside of the strips and the areas where you will be gluing, then wipe them down to remove the dust. This helps the E-6000 adhere better.

Congrats, Mark! You need to post a pic of your prize when you get it!

If you are just looking for the lenses, Kevin, you can use one of these: ----------I got the idea from Tim (Dark CMF) and used it on my first build. It has one small and one large lens, and they fit great!

I know how addicting these builds can be.. (sorta like Cheez-Its). My first DD kit took me 2 weeks. My last one took me 5 weeks because I kept seeing detail after detail I wanted to add, and modded it to the nth degree. (Thanks, T-Jay)! Funny thing is, being a HWT, I don't even carry an E-11. You are doing a phenomenal job, Tahitoa. Keep up the great work!!!!

Depending on the size of the shims and the width of the cover strips you need, you may be able to use the ABS that you trimmed from the kidney, chest, or ab pieces.

Foe shims, you may be able to use the extra ABS from the bottom and top of the kidney (or bottom of the chest) that was cut out during trimming.

You can (and should) remove all of the return edges on the wrist openings, Forrest. If (hopefully) you decide to go for EIB and Centurion, these will need to be removed anyway, so it's easier to do before you glue anything..

I can send you some of the correct white elastic if you like, Mark, (no charge). If interested, just PM me.

Depending on what level of accuracy you are going for, I would highly suggest T-Jay's completion set. It really adds the finishing touches that will make your blaster look incredible! The thread can be found here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28444-fs-completion-sets-for-e-11-kits-like-doopydoo%E2%80%99s-full-resin-kit-incl-worldwide-shipping-and-paypal/

If no one has a spare, I would try ATA, Jefferson. They are really good about supplying individual pieces.

I have said it before, but I LOVE SUGRU! It bonds super tight, will never crack, and is removable. Incredibly easy to work with, not like the epoxy putty I have used in the past. This site will give you some more info. https://sugru.com/about. Whatever you decide to use, just be sure to leave a small gap in the top somewhere to let moisture out of your bucket, which will help keep your lenses from fogging up.

It's all a matter of choice, Phil... both have their advantages. It won't affect your submission for basic, EIB, or Centurion, it just depends how accurate you want to get. I personally like the snap system, as I can break down my armor to easily stack in my bin. Perhaps someone with the classic system can elaborate on how they like theirs.

Sorry, I didn't realize you were the Eric from Sunday! That AP gave me a chance to learn a lot about the ANOVOS armor as well, which will definitely come in handy in the future. It's a great kit, but the strapping system is the only thing that I was concerned about. If someone chooses to put it together with the included Velcro, I can definitely see pieces falling off during troops now.... I think we ended up with about 20 pounds of scrap plastic when it was all said and done... anyone interested in a gallon of ABS paste?

After having a close-up at the ANOVOS kits over the weekend, I noticed that it comes with Velcro and elastic closures. Velcro is great for many things, but can come apart and wear out over time, especially on joints that get a lot of stress like the shoulders. Elastic is also a wonderful thing.... it allows some extra movement, and is perfect for some areas like the bicep/forearm connections. However, I would go with snaps and nylon on all the main parts, like the kidney, chest, and back plates and thighs. Side note: I also noticed that the ANOVOS armor comes with a very thin clear plastic film that covers the armor. This needs to be peeled off before gluing.

Good call on the T-tracks, and grip Carl, I haven't seen this video in about a year and forgot about those!

The item I used (and highly suggest) is called SUGRU, Dave. It is listed on my "Supply List.." thread. I purchased it at Lowe's in the paint dept., and it works AWESOME! Here is a link to give you some more info. https://sugru.com/about

In this video, he has the techniques down, but IMHO he takes it a bit too far. Showing up on camera is one thing, showing up on a satellite photo is another! (Sometimes less is more)... Also, the scope should be (minimally) done in brass colored paint, not silver. Weathering is one thing, having it look like it went through a garbage masher is another!

I heard from Charles a couple of days ago, and he is checking into it for me. Will update as soon as I hear something. Promise!

At least they match his vest.

I always wanted to use a set of these in my bucket for Halloween, to go for that "Steve Buscemi" look. ---------

Great to hear you are going for HWT EIB, Jonathan! There are a lot of great tutorials about shimming the kidney, and many have made it all the way to Centurion doing this. Does it take some time and effort? Well, yes, but the end result will make both your TK and HWT look MUCH better. Best of luck to ya, and keep me informed of your progress. If I can be of any help, just let me know..

They're not scratches, Shaun, they're battle scars! (Unless you were stationed on the Death Star, then they're probably marks from mouse droids running over your boot). Seriously, though.. you can hit them with some white leather dye if they look too bad. Scratches are inevitable, especially as the calf armor rides against the tops. Not sure what the CRLs are for Greedo, but they could very well work for that.