justjoseph63

So sorry to hear that, David! What armorer did you get your kit from? Since the color of the ABS can vary from maker to maker it's probably best to reach out that person so that the bucket and ABS belt match. @gmrhodes13 has a great list of E-11 suppliers (link here). If you want to go the build-it-yourself route Kevin has those available (link here). For the under-suit, I have had good success on Amazon (link here). Hope this helps, and if you need any more questions just ask!

Hi Georgia. Due to the delay in any movement on this submission we are considering it inactive. If you would like to continue, please get in touch with any member of the D.O. staff and we will be happy to get the ball rolling again. Thanks!

Perfect! Thanks for those, and I look forward to seeing the updated photos with the new TD plate!

Hi Galton, and THANKS for your submission for ANH Stunt Expert Infantry! That is an awesome looking set of armor there, sir, but unfortunately there is an issue you need to correct before we can get started. The control panel (raised rectangle) on your TD is similar to those used in ROTJ and will need to be changed to the ANH version. I know your armor is TM and they certainly make an ROTJ version of the TD plate, but I have never seen the particular one you are using. It's kind of odd that the round "washer" at the top is correct for ANH, but not the rectangular area. Yours ROTJ (screen used) TM ROTJ TD plate ANH screen used TM ANH TD plate Also, please post up some detail pics of your bucket as seen below- As soon as you get this sorted please post up some new photos: Suited up (rear shot) and a close up of the new plate so that we can move ahead and get that EI badge under your name. Thanks!!

Forgot to add- There are a few quality canvas belt vendors out there, but I have always ordered mine from Rob at Imperial Issue (link here). Outstanding quality, made to order (custom fit) and great customer service!

Looking great so far, Carter! As for your query " I am however worried that the posterior, kidney, and back will not all touch, which could be a problem. If anyone has some input or advice on that, I’d love to hear it" we understand that with taller troopers that the back and kidney don't always meet in the rear, but the kidney and posterior plate need to (pardon the pun) butt up against each other. Once you get to the fitting stage it will be easier to judge once we see some photos. As Mario mentioned, I sell the flexible hand guards if you need them (link here). Since you are aiming for Centurion I have a thread here which may help. Keep those photos and questions rolling in!

Update time! SO, between building a new workshop and digging 133 holes for my new fence I managed to get some things done on this. The scope- Please note that there is minimal weathering on this part. Some brass showing is good, too much and it just looks awful. To get it like I wanted, I dabbed my finger in the brass colored (Model Master 1782) paint, smeared it around on a piece of paper, rubbed most of it off and then applied it with the same finger. This way it doesn't have any brush marks. Screws installed on the front. I also made/painted a new aluminum scope rail. SIDE NOTE: The front and rear lens holders have threads which hold the lenses in place quite securely. If you are using one of these particular kits and feel the need to add an adhesive do NOT use CA (super) glue. It will permanently fog up the glass lenses. Opt instead for a tiny drop of plain craft glue. Reference images So, at this point some of you may be wondering "What the heck is that strange thing you put on the top of the scope"? This thread (link here) will answer that question. Folding Stock- The folding stock that was included with the kit I received is insanely accurate, but I wanted to kick it up a notch so I will be using a genuine vintage Sterling L2A3 (reconditioned by me) one which (thanks to Bryan's design) fits like a glove and will add a little "heft" to the finished product. Before you ask, yes, those weird things on the side of stock were on the originals. ** I will be doing some final weathering on these (and the stock) before completion. ** I mentioned before that I wasn't too happy with the way the weathering on the Hengstler counter looked, so that was repainted and touched up in the same way that I did the scope with that "worn off" look. The photo makes it look more severe than it actually is, though. I also installed the curved clear Lexan lens over the counter (and yes, I touched up the bottom of that last 7 before doing so, lol). Next up: The power cylinders, magazine mount and the main body!

Hi Karl! Any updates on those new pics?

Gotta' say, Adam, that was one of the finest builds I have seen in a long time. Seeing all that attention to detail was an absolute pleasure, mi amigo. Now that you have set the bar so high, I hope we continue to see more HWTs follow your example.

Hi Mark, and THANKS for your SECOND submission for ANH Stunt EI (and your patience)! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of Expert Infantry. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor, and please keep in mind that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. You have a great looking set of armor there, Mark, but there is a little fine-tuning you could do to make it look even better! Not sure what happened with your Anovos armor, but I think you will find that AM is sturdier. All that being said, let's get started, brother! Starting with the vocoder, we would like to see the paint on the tops of the arches more symmetrical and the lines crisper. This is really easy to do using a small Flilbert (rounded end) style brush and should take less than 10 minutes. Reference images In looking at the photos below, the gap between the front of the right shoulder bell and the chest plate is pretty wide and should be closer to match the left. Adding some bicep straps would take care of this. In the first pic below, your right shoulder bell is riding higher than the left one. BUT, in the rear shot they are perfectly aligned. I think this is because your right shoulder was raised, so something to consider when you apply for Centurion. It looks like your hand plates are about to pop off, so adding some E-6000 (NOT CA glue) around the edges would keep those rascals in place. The gloves also seem to want to bunch up at the openings (yellow arrow). I have a thread here which will help. Your ab/kidney connections are fine, but there are slight gaps on the sides, so we highly suggest adding some ABS tabs on the sides. There are several versions (2 are below) depending on how adventurous you want to get. Details on this one here. In the first pic below it looks like the belt you are using to support your thighs has slipped considerably and is showing. We suggest raising it (see example) so that the connection sits under your canvas belt. Last up, when you submit your Centurion photos have your photographer check the drop boxes so they don't get caught on your thigh. Centurion Requirements: In this section we prepare you for our highest tier of approval. Because Centurion photos must show more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Level 3 might be seen there and not here and additional photos may be required. We try to point out all that we can from what we are able to clearly see, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. Not too much to see here, sir, but as you know Level 3 is all about those small details.... the "ideal" TK. As seen below, your right bicep protrudes farther down than the left one and they should sit at the same height. This is pretty easy to remedy by making the right shoulder bell to bicep strap a bit shorter. I'm thinking an inch or so. Reference images As per the CRL, the ABS belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the ab button plates. Since it has to be raised, we recommend above as seen in the reference images. Reference images Last up is the simplest fix ever! The CRL for Level 3 states that the "Corners of the .. ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that meets the outer edge of the cloth belt". I know it's a tiny detail, but that's what Centurion is all about! 10 seconds with some tin snips or Lexan scissors and you are good! Reference image And that's it! Nothing too major, and since you have done this before I have every confidence that you can jump on these issues and that we will be seeing your photos for Centurion soon. If you need any assistance with any of the issues (or have questions) always feel welcome to contact any of us on the D.O. staff. Now it's time to get out there and make the CCG proud with this new armor!!

First post changed.

For those aiming for higher levels of approval with ANH Hero armor, please be aware that the CRL for Expert Infantry has been updated, specifically for the Hovi mic tips. The update is an addition to the present requirements and the new ones are shown below in bold font and underlined: "Correct Aerators/Hovi-MIX tips are present. Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh. The rim of the mic may be weathered, and the inside raised area painted white. Interior sides shall be painted black, mesh can also be painted black". The reason for these updates is for closer screen accuracy, as there is overwhelming evidence that the vast majority of the Hero helmets seen in the film were painted in this way. As noted, the mesh may be painted black but this is not a requirement at any level.

For those aiming for higher levels of approval with ANH Hero armor, please be aware that the CRL for Expert Infantry has been updated, specifically for the Hovi mic tips. The update is an addition to the present requirements and the new ones are shown below in bold font and underlined: "Correct Aerators/Hovi-MIX tips are present. Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh. The rim of the mic may be weathered, and the inside raised area painted white. Interior sides shall be painted black, mesh can also be painted black". The reason for these updates is for better screen accuracy, as there is overwhelming evidence that the vast majority of the Hero helmets seen in the film were painted in this way. As noted, the mesh may be painted black but this is not a requirement at any level.

I'll repeat it, Mark- WOW you are fast! Thanks!

I am working on your review, Mark, but I need one more photo. No need to get suited up! Please post up a detailed pic of the end (either side) of your ABS/canvas belt with it laying on a flat surface. THANKS!!

WOW that was fast! Awesome job, Mark, and I'll get started on your review right away.

It was the date when German Minister of Economic Affairs Ludwig Erhard passed away, as well as the day some obscure Sci-fi film was released. I'm thinking it was the latter. On a side note, I would like to sincerely thank all of those who have helped along the way, and they will be listed in the main post. I am just the builder of this prop weapon, but I could not have done it without the help of those who have supplied the parts. All of you ROCK!

All present and accounted for, Mark! One small thing we need ya' to do before we can get that EI badge under your name is to to remove a bit of the paint from the gum line as seen below: This is actually a requirement for Basic approval ( Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area.) but 5 minutes with a toothpick and some (non acetone) paint remover and you are good to go! If you need any help with this please feel free to contact any of us on the D.O. staff and we will be more than happy to give advice. You can do this, and we are here for you'! Looking forward to seeing the updated photos!

Update time! The original print I received had a few more print lines in the small crevices than I was willing to sand down (pic 1), and was just a tiny bit crooked. My OCD kicked in and I asked Bryan (the designer) if he could hook me up with one printed in resin. He put me in touch with Matt, who donated this (second pic). There were a few vague lines, but some filler, sanding and paint took care of those quite nicely! I dug through some of my E-11 surplus parts and found a front piece that had the metal connector pins. I know these are rarely seen or used, but they were present on the originals. I think most were knocked off at some point during filming due to holstering and such, but I want this to be as accurate as I can make it. Reference images I really didn't want to Dremel off the entire end of the new counter and add this, so I cut the pins out with a hacksaw (pic 2). The openings were just a fraction too small, so I drilled them out. Since the resin is so thin in those areas I used my fingers instead of a drill to carefully twist the bit as not to destroy them. Ouch. Everyone knows what fillers and primers look like, so the first pic shows it after painting. I decided to do a little weathering on the forward part, since the original fronts were made of "brass"** (pic 2) and I figured that some of the black paint would "wear off" when holstering. I'm not too happy with the way it looks (pic 3) and will be re-doing it before it gets mounted. ** Before anyone cries "foul", yes, Hengstler did manufacture these particular counter fronts in a silver colored base metal with an almond colored front (pic 1)... BUT, in all the references I can find the weathering seems to indicate that the brass version (at least on the Baptys) was used. Reference images I added a tiny "cheese-head" screw to the front, and painted the numbers** on the counter white (I still gotta' touch up the bottom of that last 7). Yeah, you can see some tiny print lines, but they are actually not that noticeable. I will be adding a curved Lexan counter (pic 3 below) cover from my "box-o-parts" once I get it cleaned up and polished. ** In case you didn't know, Bryan chose these particular numbers for a reason, and it also happens to be the exact date I saw the coolest characters in a film. Ever. HINT: If you plan on using one of these plastic or Lexan covers, do NOT use any type of CA (super) glue to mount it. If you do, it will permanently fog it up. I will be using good ol' Elmers. Sparingly. Overall I am pretty happy with the build so far. Still lots to do, but I hope the finished product will not only make someone very happy but raise some funds for our charity! Next up, the scope!

Hi Mark, and THANKS for your submission for ANH Stunt EI! AS Glen mentioned there are some photos missing, so as soon as you can get those posted up we can begin!

If you have had the chance to look at my "Return edges" thread you will know that I am not a fan of them on most pieces. One of the main reasons is "armor bite", where certain pieces can dig into you or cause chafing during a troop. This is especially important in areas like the cod are (inside tops of the thighs), bicep insides etc). The problem is that if you leave the return edges and the pieces are glued, if you remove them later the openings will be too large and the piece(s) may not fit correctly. You are doing the PERFECT thing by asking questions. Ask lots of them, and keep those photos rolling in!

WOW, Adam, you really went all out on this one, bro! Always fantastic to see another HWT... perfect amount of weathering on the armor and pack, and I am envious as all heck of that sweet DLT-19. You are in the queue, sir, so bear with us.

A couple more mishaps.. I knew I wanted to install a real metal D-ring, but the mounting was securely fastened to the cap. After snapping off the printed D-ring it was time to break out the Dremel and grind off the mounting. Only took a few minutes, and then it was filled/sanded smooth. When trying to remove the site guard to be able to do some detail filling/sanding, guess what. I snapped it in half. (You built this a little TOO well, Kevin)! I could glue it back together, but I had another idea. Although the end cap clip assembly was 100% accurate, I decided to replace the 3D printed U channel with an aluminum one. With some brute force, I removed the entire thing but since the metal pin that holds the clip in place was glued in I knew I needed another one, otherwise it would not fit into the channel. Since I needed several new pieces, I hit Kevin up for some replacements. He not only stepped up to the plate, but (again) paid postage as well. What a guy! Raw prints Filled/sanded Primed (D-ring mount is NOT glued on) New clip/Aluminum U channel Next up, the Hengstler counter.

OK, so bear with me.. I am in the middle of constructing my new workshop (from the ground up) so that has taken a lot of my spare time. Time to get back to it! Taking a break from the shroud to work on a few bits and bobs. I decided that I wanted to install real lenses in the scope, but I applied way too much pressure and broke it trying to take it apart. Oops. In theory I could have repaired it, but being as this would have taken a lot of extra time I decided to reach out to Bryan (Bulldog44) of the Japan Garrison for one of his phenomenal cast from original M-38 resin scope kits. I have used these in the past, and the details are as accurate as you can possibly get! Unfortunately he said he could not sell me one, but would be more than happy to donate one for the cause. I got that in the mail last week, and all that needs to be done before painting is to remove the lenses (easy). Screws will be added after painting. THANK YOU for your generosity, Bryan.. you saved me a ton of work, brother. This will make an awesome addition! Wrapping removed, accurate screws/lenses included! Insanely easy detailed instructions.

PVC pipes and foam padding.