TK bondservnt

mine are better and cheaper. shipping is gonna be the killer... like 40 bucks. 50 plus 40 . feel the pain.

there are holsters made for a budget, either bernard or some others make vynal or pleather versions much less costly than mine.

look at the film the thighs are all pulled up. all the film troopers are up, tight and high. no gap. no 501 gap just pulled up high.

if you look at screen used armor it's tight everywhere. rotate your thighs out and bring them up. the knees or shins will fit better that way. look at troopers on screen. your thighs are too low. you can also notch the backs of your thighs.

the only element of confusion is not explaining all the variations to a new person. I don't like calling some one a newb... that in and of itself is the wrong option to take. we should be able to clearly explain any variation to anyone. don't try to dumb it down so much that you lose all the wonderful options a person can choose. try sir not to make it so "Simplified" as to lose the screen accuracy of a point of costuming. while we don't force a person to learn, they will benefit in the long run. I'm not just talking about the helmet of the features of the Mk 2... I'm talking about how the look of the suit changed due to strapping changes. the bicep to shoulder bell connection has nothing at all to do with the mk 2 it's the change in strapping location on all the esb suits. clearly shown in the carbon freeze scene where all biceps are dropped down. not in all scenes.. but most show this major look difference in the way the arms were strapped. and after all I have done for this detachment to say "don't " or such is a little off the mark mathias... why the effort to control the flow of information just because YOU think it's "confusing"

a very small amount of what we used to call "lines of illusion" is on the biceps but very little. about 3/8" on the top back, and front sides. with the front base flush and the bottom with about 1/16" curve.

ESB armor has many subtle differences. the shoulder straps are attached fully, the trimming on some of the parts is different for the 2 classes of armor used in the film. some of the esb armor is just anh armor with different hands and decals and paint on the helmet. but the blasters types, cut of the holster, and internal assembly method is also different. the shoulder bells, and bicep connections are also different and very clear to see when it's all pointed out. many subtle variances to teeth cuts and eye cuts also as well as the chin paint and colors. even the internal strapping went though a change.

thanks for all you do shawn!

this quote relates to the standard esb e-11 not the eib promo/snowtrooper version.

the ESB greeblie stunt has the lower holes covered behind the bayonet lug the 2 holes in front of the bayonet lug are open. also called the "snow trooper" or Promo trooper... actually it's used by snow troopers and regular tk's in ESB. it has no cocking slot, no spring, no cocking handle and it is supposed to have no holes in it at all. like a solid cast. it also has no front barrel center disk, that's sanded off. no d ring or d ring mount, that's also sanded off solid cocking channel no spring, no cocking handle on the magazine well the button, and ejector parts are also removed. and I quote from the CRL's For 501st approval: Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. For level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock (does not need to function). No ammo counter shall be present. Correct style scope. No power cylinders on the magazine housing. Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster and you cover all the rows of holes, the blaster will have 7 T-tracks total. But, if you want to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total) with the lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side, then you shall cover the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, and grind off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side and drill a new row of holes in its place. Two greeblies on the left rear area. Three studs on the right rear area. Add two scope block greeblies. Remove front bayonet muzzle disk. Remove magazine housing parts. Remove D-Ring mount. Swoosh trim on right side above the pistol grip. For level three certification (if applicable): Hasbro blasters are not allowed, even conversions.

hehe... holster and blaster can come from the same person, fitted.

the bbc plans are wrong anyway. did you try to print my plans? if you'd like I have a set I could post over to you. 5$ when you print my plans use a photo editor not windows or the browser. choose photo print borderless 300 dots per inch. print plan and cut on the lines. I edited the plans above so that the length of the tube is right, they had it too long. and I edited the plan for the end cap placement, they didn't have it even marked also added the placement diagrams. when you wrap the pipe with my plan line up the holes and mid line the handle marks don't line up. if you don't print borderless then the drawing will come out too small.

don't reduce it. just print it no boarders like a photo and cut it out. 300 dpi. easy. I made it for the 1.5 pipe. on my cannon printer I use borderless normal, it chooses photo paper but I ignore that. want me to ship you a printed version? of course this is what my plan looks like. I designed the printout so that if you print it borderless like a photo it will work fine. don't use the browser to print it. use your printer's settings to print it like a borderless 300 dpi photo.

try this and for the rear print them at 300 dpi and you should be good. full page no margins.

make sure it's comfortable and you can run, and dance in it.

nice. what about the brass on the hengstler?

the CRL states clearly that there are hero specific bells there sir!

karin's gloves and handplates rock!

the insert on the trooperbay belt is thin while the TK kitt version is so thick you can see it. I like the way the Tbay one looks a little better than the above mentioned one, but they both are fine. thanks for the shout out rob!

I think it's really nice compared to the other ones I've seen. I have several belts from different makers. the trooperbay belt is very nice. you can also contact RS props for an even more accurate version.

yep.

mason is a better maker.

best way is to just not exhale.

snidly whiplash! all the stuff I mention here has only to do with sculpting your own forms. like mathias says, document every step and you should be fine. rob, I'm sure that paul is only making a suggestion for a road that has some permissions built into it from the sculptor themself. I think it's a great test of skill patience and hard work to sculpt and make your own armor.

can I ask what your measurements are? from the look of your body size there's no way you're going to fit inside standard armor. 15" forearms? 30" thighs? 17" calf/shin?