ukswrath

Well I can't say everything I've done was DIY, that would be a bunch of malarkey and I know most calf armor Centurions or others wear is Velcro, hence the sarcasm.. hehe . Since I couldn't find a sales thread on calf hardware (not that it doesn't exist), I had an opportunity to be creative and took on the challenge. Some will use this, some won't. Until there's a "canon for dummies" section created I guess threads like this will continue to crop up . In all sincerity though, I do appreciate all the constructive comments everyone has contributed. Can you imagine if we all still wore the 1st gen armor? Scary

What make and size snaps most are using these days? I couldn't find an ongoing sales thread. Some are total garbage, trying to avoid these. Half tempted to post a thread myself with some low profile military grade, USA made and inexpensive ones I found. You have to buy them in bulk. I can sell off what I don't use.

BTW that's a great thread on the snaps you have there. Awesome ideas

Hey Steve funny you mentioned the sewn in over the counter hooks. One of the final images shown is actually using one of those (it's the one that looks a bit shinier). I just took the loops you would had sewn to the material bent them to the shape similar of the hook anchors I made. Same process minus a few steps.

Thank you Mathias, I understand your point. The nylon is just an option (not canon), kinda like Velcro, and who would use Velcro? This thread is for those DIYers like myself. I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel just a personal & crafty way to put it on the car. Cheers

Thanks Mathias, noted, and thanks for your input. If it's a EIB or Centurion requirement to use the elastic then those reading this, use elastic. If it's not, then I don't have a problem using nylon because my calves give enough to detach the hook, but that's just me. The Grab Tab is a great idea I will have to look into it, personally.

Hello Troopers, Thought I'd post a build thread on rear calf closure clips, aka Bra Clips. I know you can buy a box of clips at your local fabric or hobby store for under $2 however, since this is a DIY organization I thought I'd post this for those who like to do it all themselves. Items needed: Carbon Steel Crafters wire or similar $5 3/4"W x 3"L, Elastic, White, x6 (3 for each calf). Cutting to size before or after you make the hook doesn't matter Tools: Ruler, Pencil and paper Small/Medium sized plain Needle Nose Pliers Safety Wire Twist Pliers (Best), Small/Medium sized Vise Grip Needle Nose Pliers (Better), or plain Pliers Small/Medium sized Wire cutters Pick or medium nail Sewing Machine with medium to heavy duty thread (Best), Needle and thread (Better), or glue (E6000 or Zap-A-Gap) Here's the wire... Steps: 1) Cut a 4" section of wire 2) Using your thumb and forefinger start begin to fold the wire as shown 3) Using the plain needle nose pliers continue to fold the wire until the wire gap is closed 4) Using the plain pliers grab the wire at the folded point 5) Now wrap the wire around the pliers tip 180 degrees as shown to create the hook 6) Now re-position the pliers just below the hook 7) Fold both loose wire ends to the side 45 degrees as shown 8) Draw out a ¾" or 19mm guide 9) Using plain pliers bend wire 45 degrees away from hook as shown 10) Continue to bend both wires 180 degrees until they cross over each other as shown. We will call this section the anchor. NOTE: A this point you can either cut the wire ends where they meet and solder them together and jump to step 20, or if you don't have a soldering iron, continue on. 11) Using pliers hold anchor section (NOT SHOWN) then bend the wire ends away from hook as shown 12) Now for the tricky part. Continuing to use the plain pliers grab anchor section just below the hook as shown 13) Using your other hand twist the free wire ends about 3 or 4 revolutions. It should look like this 14) Now grab the same area again with the plain pliers and hold on tight (keep this section of wires straight while we twist them tighter). Now grab the two free wires just past the twist you made in the previous step with the vise grip pliers. 15) Rotate the vise grips 1 to 2 revolutions (the same direction you began twisting the wires by hand), this will tighten the existing wire windings to prevent them from coming apart under stress. NOTE: This may take a little practice. 16) Remove the vise grips. 17) At this point straighten any bent sections to resemble the image shown 18) Using the wire cutters cut the twisted wires approximately 1/8" or 3mm from the untwisted anchor section (hook side) as shown 19) Compare your hook assembly to the images I've provided. 20) Now grab one of your elastic strips. NOTE: Black nylon is shown for illustration purposes only. 21) Fold one end of material ½" or 13mm. Make note of crease location. 22) Poke a pic or nail into the center of the crease, at the center of the material half as shown, to create a hole for the hook 23) Feed the hook portion through the hole, then pull on the hook to secure the anchor side firmly against the material. NOTE: Prior to this next step it has been suggested attaching addition material to the material as a pull tab to assist in removing the hook from the armor. This can be done simply by adding a extra 1" or so extra material by looping it like a "S" behind the hook during the gluing or sewing process. I'll add this to this thread shortly. 24) Finalizing: This next and final step/s requires you to connect the two sections of material together around the anchor portion of hook completing the assembly. There are multiple ways you can accomplish this. A) Hand sew Sewing Machine or 3) Glue. The next section I will be demonstrating the Sewing Machine method. If you choose to hand sew or glue you are done! Glue the opposite end to your armor, drill your holes for your hooks and Waa La, enjoy! 25) Sewing Machine method: Fold the two material sections around anchor point of hook assembly as shown. 26) Place area to be sewn in machine (Hook side up) as shown. 27) Depending the quality of machine you have you can either start at the edge of the material or in the middle. Sew the halves together and up the sides for added security (prevent hook from falling out when not in use). Dritz size 3 bra hook used here to illustrate hook similarities. 28) That's it, you're done!

Pictures, I love pictures Thanks Derrek and Steve you've been a great help.

While on the topic of holsters, I've seen different build threads and opinions regarding the distance the holster (top edge) has to be from the belt, the distance the the holster strap needs to be from the ammo belt, and the distance the mounting rivets need to be from the edge of the belt itself. Is there a standard for these?

Ah gotcha. So for the record I'll trim the rivet "A" to the size of maybe a pop or Chicago rivet then paint it.

Thanks Mark I like this idea. Give the appearance of dirty but can be cleaned up quite quickly, awesome.

Since you mentioned painting it white to match the belt what would you say if I used a white cap version of the rivet (image top right)? Does the secure have to resemble a rivet or something similar?

This is what I want to do. Using the image I've provided I want to take Rivet "A" and run it from the outside of the belt and secure it to "B" on the inside. Is this acceptable?

I'm getting confused here.

Hey Steve, regarding mounding the holster to the belt. So is Derrek incorrect in stating the above?

Hey thanks for getting back to me. To recap: Regarding the holster strap. I figured I would use the rivet side of the snap in the outside of the belt (as you mentioned), my concern is most snap rivets are generally 1/2" or larger. I just wanted to be clear that there wasn't a size requirement (too big) for that rivet. I guess I can always grind it down if there were, just didn't want to do that if I didn't have to, cleaner look. The white snap cap instead of a steel looking snap rivet is what I was referring to. I would be correct in assuming this is NOT canon? Regarding the ABS (ammo) belt. I believe we're on the same page here. Cap rivets are used to secure the ABS to the belt and Snaps will be used to secure the belt to the armor.

Hello all, so I'm completing my ATA, ANH Stunt build to EIB, I'll eventually take to Centurion. Shortly there after I'll be applying for HWT and I'll need my holster and drop boxes to be detachable for HWT. I can't seem to find any specifications regarding holster fastener and sizes. If I use snaps to attach the gun holster is there a size requirement on the snaps (fasteners)? Also, can I use a white snap cap (cleaner look) on the outside of the belt or does it need to be metal in appearance? Also, though this may not be the thread for this but does anyone also know if there's one particular backpack I can use with both my TD armor and my HWT ANH Stunt armor, considering both will be dirty? Any info specs or referrals are appreciated.

WOW! I've done metal fabrication for over 30 years and this is absolutely incredible, very impressive workmanship. I hope this man is making good money for his talents, if not, he should be.

In the automotive industry the yellowing on headlights is due to UV. Block the UVs and most yellowing stops. Head light restoration kits come with anti UV polish. I know 3M makes some just can't remember the name, it comes in the it restoration kit. Plastic companies like TAP plastics might know. Haven't really tried this yet just throwing my two cents in.

NP, works great for me, I love it.

These fem suits are awesome I've gotta get one for the wife

Awesome!

Someone should tell the yahoo on eBay selling "501st approved" armor that his product (at least the bucket) it's no longer approved. Oh wait... I did!

yea me too

I use the the headlight restoration kit from 3M 39008. It polishes deep scratches or light. Brings my ATA armor to its original shine. Just hook it to a electrical or portable drill and within minutes problems solved without much effort. You can pick it up on Amazon under $14. One kit lasts quite a long time. So far I've buffed out 2 heavy scratched armor sets however, you will run out of the supplied 3M polish before exhausting any other items. In this case I use Novus 2 polish in replace of the 3M polish (basically the same stuff). I used to restore headlights professionally a couple years ago. I figured it worked on polyurethane headlights it should work on ABS or similar plastics and I was correct. I highly recommend it.