ukswrath

Hey Luc, though I don't go into too much detail in this build, basically the garter system consists of two nylon straps connected the inner thigh armor then looped around a nylon waist belt with a buckle, seen here. Hope this helps http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31920-ukswraths-am-10-ata-bucket-build/?p=418702

Yes, but asking novice builders to flex them (sideways) then glue them with E6000 maybe asking a bit much . For accuracy sake it's a great idea. Maybe you can post a "How To" tutorial link for those adventurous few who may want to try this. What Paul is referring to is the front butt and strip connection (seam) on the screen used armor had a curve to it, as you may notice, if not here ya go. Paul is suggesting a alternative, more accurate approach to the build. Instead of running the cover strip vertically, as I've illustrated, you curve it to follow the contour of the seam. This takes a bit of finesse however, if you want it to look exactly like the movie armor then have at it. Either way is acceptable at all levels of approval. Thanks for the info Paul

Well myself as well as others are are planning on using them so let's hope there's no issues. I for one will using an extra strip of ABS underneath the brackets to help distribute the load.

Hey Michael thanks for your patience brother. CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All submission photos are present and your armor meets all EIB requirements. Sly and myself would like to congratulate and welcome you the rank of Expert Infantry . Excellent job on build Michael. I know this has been a labor of love for you, pouring a great deal of time and effort into getting it right the first time. Your GGG brothers should be proud of you, and we are I suppose we'll see you at Centurion, until then get out there make the GGG proud. Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section Sly or myself may suggest corrections to make your armor look it's best and/or prepare you for your Centurion app. The only area of concern we have at the moment is the posterior front edge angle. We suggest you taper it off giving the area a cleaner look. Again, Congratulations!!

Thanks

You can mark and follow the top of the return edge with a straight edge and knife. I would use sand paper and a flat surface to perform the final touchup. Good question, I may need to go back and touch up my post on the thighs but I believe in a previous post I mentioned NOT following a curved return edge instead find the lowest point of that edge then use the trim line as a guide. Obviously sections will not butt up against each other if curved. I believe I also posted a reference picture to illustrate what I'm talking about.

I'm not a huge fan of the velcro suspension/strapping systems that was supplied. Unless you want a whole heap of issues I suggest you ditch it and go with snaps or other.

...and here we have our first contestant... looking good Taylor

4c. Ab Button Pre assembly All return edges have been removed and the edges are following the ab mounting area lines. The buttons will be painted before gluing to ab, but that will be done as one of the last steps in the armor assembly. Before... After...

No return edges

Exactly DO NOT mark directly your armor with a sharpie or any other permanent marker unless you know it has the protective layer over it, you plan on removing the marked section when finished or the marked section will be under the cover strip.

Nice job Ian

Can people post their thermal detonator control panel (face plate) dimensions please, width and length? Note: Dimensions after removing the return edge at the ends. Thanks

Not there yet

Haha yes there is hope, just in case

BTW here's a reference pic for those who may be interested in going the the calf hook direction. Later on I'll also illustrated the velcro method.

Here's a nice reference photo. As you can see the offset between the two halves is pretty significant however you have to have a balance, the lower connections can't be too far off either. I'll address this issue in my "Assembly" section coming up but you're more than welcome to check out other RS builds as well. Yes, I just wanted to be clear that this is not overlap armor assembly. The calf is still considered a butt and strip section with the exception it is not permanently fixed to both halves of the armor like in other areas. I will address the bra hooks in the "Assembly" section

If the shim is installed so that there is no seam visible then yes Centurion is applicable however the shim needs to be applied at the back of the armor.

7c. Thighs Pre-assembly Start by perform a fitment check. If you have ample room, enough so the butt connections overlap each other then continue on. If not then let someone know so we can assist you on what to do next. Starting with the right outer thigh #20, front section. As with the other sections locate and mark the butt connection return edge. Measure out 10mm then cut off excess. Right inner #21 Test fit. The armor fit perfect Measure the top and bottom Left shin Left outer, section #22 Lift inner, section #23 Test fit Measure top and bottom After comparing the measurements between left and right thighs the left would have to be trimmed. Measure, mark then trim excess. After trimming Both thighs are now ready to be assembled.

Hey Josh thanks for bringing that up. The armor comes covered with a protective film of plastic. I have found as long as the coating isn't penetrated you can write on it with pretty much anything. My suggestion to everyone is until you're ready to assemble the armor I'd leave it on, just don't forget to remove it.

3c. Shin Pre-assembly NOTE. Your shins may be mis-labeled by Anovos. The shins come labeled in pairs 24/25, 27/28. A good majority of customers are stating they should be 24/27 and 25/28. Regardless of the numbering system when assembled they should resemble the following image. Note the long swooping outer edge verses the shorter inner. These should resemble the anatomy of your legs. Double check before final assembly. After initial trimming perform a fitment check by installing the shin armor around your legs. As you install the shins you should notice the flat edge on the front. This is where the 20mm cover strip will reside. This flat area once trimmed correctly should be approximately 20mm in width. If your legs are within the intended body type of the armor you should be able to overlap the front achieving the desired 20mm width. The rear sections should be touching each other or overlapping each other. If you have a pretty significant gap in the back you can start by loosening up the front (taped section) allowing the armor to come around the back to close up the gap however, the goal here is not to have too much armor in the front. Beyond 30mm cover strip mounting surface (butt connection) in the front would be considered too excessive in which those of us who approve armor will most likely tell you to add shims to the back. With that said, we'll cross that bridge if we need to. Front final trimming for cover strip. Starting with one section, find the return edge then measure and mark out 10mm as seen below. Before After Now trim the excess using the score and snap technique mentioned earlier. Repeat the process with all the shin sections In some areas it may be difficult to identify the return edge, this is where a straight edge comes in handy. After scoring. After the excess has been removed perform a joint check with the inner and outer halves to ensure the area is relatively straight and ready for the cover strip. Continue with the remainder of sections. Hopefully this illustration will help clarify things. Red lines indicate return edge locations. The blue rectangle represents the 20mm cover strip. Shins, rear (Calves) - The rear section of the shin/calves are NOT glued together with a cover strip like the fronts, instead a cover strip which is 25mm wide will be attached to the outer shin section. This will overlap the inner and when completed the two halves will be held together with straps and hooks or velcro, depending which you connecting method you choose to use. This will be be described in detail a bit later later. Temporarily assemble the shins as illustrated in the fist photo at the top of the page (disregard the label numbering system). Using tape (shown above) perform another fitment check. Ensure you'll have enough room to assemble the calves correctly. The fitment check will also confirm if you have an excess of material on one or both sides that will need t be removed. Once you've confirmed you're good to proceed divide excess (if any) between the two halves and remove. If you have no excess proceed to the assembly section. Measuring the overlap. Important note: The upper return edge is within 10mm of equal width between inner and outer sections. This will NOT always be in your case. Continuing on... divide the overlap measurement between the inner and outer sections. NOTE: My calves are pretty wide and I have thinner ankles which means the upper measurement was 0 and the lower was 20mm. When trimming the I'll start at the bottom (10mm) and then taper off as I reach the top of the calf. This will give the armor the same taper as my leg. After trimming One side may be wider as seen in the next couple photos. After evenly dividing and trimming the halves. Ready to assemble. Next up, thighs...

Yes. For the record it's not required for the forearms to be exactly the same size being the movie armor had many imperfections itself, I just like mine to look as uniform a possible, hence the reason for this particular procedure

, yes your life will be much easier with that flat section. If you still have it I'd suggest gluing it back on using a piece of flat scrap or other to secure it from the inside. At the angle the two halves come together it will be very difficult if not impossible to connect the two forearm halves using the cover strip provided. This is not a deal breaker, you'll just have to get a little creative.