Jump to content


501st Stormtrooper[TK]
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Mattax

  1. Personally, I don't like the rubber gloves and have used Mechanix M-pact gloves for the past 14 years, but my 2nd pair is getting worn out. I like the fact I can pick up objects with this type of glove. <br> So now am searching for another good tactical or mechanic glove with little luck. Mechanix no longer makes the M-Pact MMP-05 but instead has replaced it with 12 newer versions and thus has writing or rubber guards on the fingers so it does not give the outer appearance of Stormtrooper gloves. <br> Any suggestions?
  2. Is there a tutorial on assembling the canvas belt to replace the plastic belt?
  3. Looking forward to seeing the results.
  4. I am definitely interested. Please put me on the list.
  5. Thanks everyone! I rearranged the foam and placed the rectangle piece at the front. It is still tight but bearable and now my nose isn't squished to the front of the helmet and I can actually see straight out the eye holes. It will do for a temporary fit until I find something that works better. But it is hot in there with the foam. Now I have to get cushion standoffs for the temporary fans as they are currently velcroed into the helmet and the vibrations are horrendous - sounds like a weed-eater in there and that's all I can hear.
  6. I have an AP helmet. I am in the process of placing padding inside of it but am having a difficult time due to space restriction. I bought a child batting helmet and removed the padding to use in the AP helmet. No matter where I place it it is either too tight and cannot line up my eyes with the eye holes or cannot even get my head into the helmet since it must be turned sideways to put it on. I have no issues cutting up the padding further but am not sure where to place it inside. The padding is about 1 inch thick. Anyone have pics of the inside of their AP helmet with padding?
  7. Thanks! When my AP helmet project begins, I will look for this type of padding.
  8. For those of you who used knee pads, how many pads did you have to purchase? What is D-MAC padding and where does one get it? Thanks.
  9. You are welcome. I found a few pics from when I secured the face plate to the back plate and placed the dome into it to check for fitment. It is pre filing. I ended up filing and trimming where the two halves met to bring the face and back plate flush with the dome to remove gaps and then to make the dome fit completely down filed the top edges of the back plate. This may change for each individual kit depending on how it was trimmed out of the raw pull. View pics here: http://imageevent.com/mattax487/fxstormtrooper
  10. Start with mating the faceplate to the dome. Center the faceplate to the dome. Make sure there is no gap. Then work the faceplate to the dome around both sides. Next repeat for the back plate. You will find that you will need to file and trim the back plate to get a smooth fit. Here is my tutorial - text only from 2002 assembling my FX helmet: http://www.tk487.com/Armor/Armorbuild/Helmet/Helmet.html I think I have pics somewhere that I originally emailed showing my progress. I will have to search and see if I can find them.
  11. Another thing to note when lining up the three pieces of the helmet - face, back and dome is to test fit it all together and hold it with masking tape. Once it is together, note any overlap of the face to back and where it meets the dome. You may have a gap that needs to be taken out or an overlap. In both cases, mark these areas and then slowly, little by little, file away the overlap. File a little bit, test fit it, check for overlap again, mark it and file a little bit more. Repeat. Eventually, you will have all three pieces meet how you need them to and no overlap and no gaps between the back and/or face and dome. I have this detailed in text on my website - note that it is currently down due to webhost issues but should be back up this week. www.tk487.com
  12. Use rocker switches. I bought mine from the local Radio Shack. They hold up better than push buttons.
  13. After you troop a few times, you may hear the all too familiar sound of plastic beating plastic. After a year of troops I figured out how to beat most of this. Buy the 8 x 11" sheets of white sticky back felt sheets. Cut to fit and apply to the underside of your armor that rubs the layer below it. Most specifically the Chest and Upper Back armor and the shoulder bells. Just apply to the areas that actually make contact and do not go past the edges so that it does not show from the outside of the armor. This will reduce or remove the "clanging " noise and protect the armor underneath from nasty scratches.
  14. If these button are the same as a snap head, once you get them through the Ab armor, use the snap flare tool and widen the inside. Then put a dab of hot glue on them to protect your undersuit from gettin grabbed, shredded, ripped, etc.
  15. Might want to try the squirrel cage fans instead since they move air sideways inside the helmet. I bought two from Radio Shack for about $10 each. They are 12 volt fans but run great with a 9 volt battery.
  16. Provide a reference on what the actual material is you used and where to obtain it. So you are using velcro to hold it together? How about mounting the Thermal Detonator to the back and keeping it centered?
  17. Thank you, I appreciate that. Hopefully the text write up will help other troopers in putting the Armor FX kit together. One day...dare I say...I will get around to adding the pics.
  18. No, I mean a new set up on the Shoulder bridges and front and back armor. I found another section and posted about it. I am the last post- currently as I type this. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=30
  19. Yes, I wrote an entire tutorial to add to the instruction set that came with the Armor FX kit. As I continued to write it, I quit saying in addition to and just wrote it out step by step. So some parts I say refer to the instruction kit. The only thing I never completed was adding the pictures. http://www.tk487.com/Armor/Armorbuild/Armorbuild.html And for the email listed on that page, don't use it, or I will miss it in SPAM. Use this tk487@tk487.com Thanks.
  20. Try this: http://www.tk487.com/Armor/Armorbuild/Uppe...UpperArmor.html I like the fact that there is no black strap going around the white armor. May not be movie Canon, but it just looks better for the universe that is Star Wars. After all, the Armor is supposed to be hermetically sealed to the bodysuit.
  21. I ABS cemented the shoulder bridges to the chest and back plate. Recently I had one shoulder bridge crack in the middle and also have a crack in the chest plate on one side where it meets the bridge and one in the back side opposite shoulder where it meets the bridge. The ABS cement itself did not crack. I have new pieces to put together and am thinking like the post above: Put in a rivet to the hidden ABS strip and cement that to the shoulder bridge. In addition add a piece of strap from the back to front underneath for additional support to take the stress off the shoulder bridge. But the strap needs to be set just right otherwise the shoulder bridges will still be taking the stress. The only problem I foresee is the rivet backing cutting into your undersuit. What do you guys use here to keep it ripping up your undersuit and into your shoulder. A piece of metal cannot be comfortable. Perhaps a strip of leather and then use that to link the two halves together. I think Old Sarge uses it.
  22. Reading through here I see a couple of things that you can change. One, turn the ABS strip with snap installed long ways under the shoulder bridges to hide it. Example: http://www.tk487.com/Armor/Armorbuild/Uppe...or/Upper06.html Two, you can put snaps through elastic fabric. Example: http://www.tk487.com/Armor/Armorbuild/UpperArmor/EF01.html Here is what I did for my Upper Armor: http://www.tk487.com/Armor/Armorbuild/Uppe...UpperArmor.html Hope this helps. One thing I need to do is change ABS cementing the Shoulder bridges to the Front and Back armor. After 4 years, one bridge has cracked and one side of the front armor is cracked and one side of the back armor has cracked where the bridge end meets the armor. Where is the thread on this?
  23. Good to see that others are using this system. I did this to my armor back in 2002. I call it hidden shim strips since I took the pieces of ABS from the extra strips provided in the Armor FX kit to make the pieces that I put the snap through. But instead of using the hammer and anvil approach, I highly recommend snap pliers. It is a snap (pun intended). Much easier to use. View here: http://www.tk487.com/Armor/Armorbuild/Armorbuild.html Go to TOOLS and SUPPLIES and look at the link to #24 SNAP PLIERS. You can pick these up from your local craft supply store such as Michaels or Ben Franklins. Hope this helps.
  • Create New...