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AnjelRedemption

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Everything posted by AnjelRedemption

  1. Very nice! I've been looking at a lot of EIB applications to get ideas on what i need to do still and fix. Not to take away from anyone else on here (everyone who applies to EIB has great looking armor!) but you sir have some of the most screen accurate armor i've seen That pic of your thigh.....looks like the photo reference of the original suit! absolutely awesome!!
  2. Thanks Bone! Thanks Tusken! 1. I will be cutting the bolt down and covering them up w/ E6000 or some rubber so it doesn't mess up the ab plate 2. That's what i thought but wanted to be sure! 3. the pre drill spots on the belt stopped me from placing the covers on the edge....could i just remove some of the belt on the edges to make these flush?) 4.Thats a good idea. it does flare out a little on the sides and this would help. 5.Perfect! 6. I will add some snaps to the ab and belt. 7.Thanks for the conformation! 8. Thank you! just need some elastic straps to hold them down 9.I didn't know this was 501st required, i will add them soon. 10. The elastic is behind the elbow on the forearm and bicep, it is ridding right on the cover strips (i can change this if need be) 11. the hand plate sticks out a little, i'll add some more elastic to wrap around the wrist. Thanks! 12. I'll post some pics of the cod/ab connection. WOW....I still got a lot of work to do! I will be going for EIB only, i can always make the changes for Centurion later. Thanks for all the comments guys! I'll get to work on fixing this stuff right away Before I go.... Look what I got yesterday! And i had to put them on immediatley! lol Thanks again for all the feedback. I should be getting some help this weekend so i can get the correct size on the shins and thighs and get some pics of me wearing the armor! Stay tuned!
  3. HELLO? ANYBODY? Hey FISD!!! Nobody has commented on my post in almost two weeks!!! Either i'm rocking this build.......or it's so bad no one wants to look at it! I'm at that stage where i would like to have some comments or feedback on the work i've done...this will let me sleep at night, and not pull what very little remaining hair i have left, out of my head. Also, if i did do something wrong i can go back and fix it really quick. Thanks everyone, hope to hear something soon! *Edit I really don't want to sound needy....i just want to make sure i'm doing everyting right...not just saying "LOOK AT ME!!"
  4. More progress on the armor. first is the finished shoulder straps. now i just need the elastic strap to hold them down. I then started on the shins. First step is to cut the return edge off the bottom Then some of the return edge off the top... Then i measured out 10 mm from the edge of each half for the 20 mm cover strips. and i used the score and snap method. Then a quick check to make sure there is not too much ridge showing on either side Then is was time to glue the inner strips for strength I think i have them correct....The one on the right is for the Left leg and the one on the left is for the Right leg. They are pretty close already, but there is a slight more curve on the insides in the pic above for the calf muscle. Please let me know if i have the shins backwards. While the shins are drying, i wanted to work on the belt. I had some left over screws and bolts from my helmet kit, so i put them to use. Here are some pics of it on the torso...due to the wonkyness of the NE ab plate, it doesn't sit well, i guess thats why they put snaps to hold it in place. Let me know if i have the placement right on the belt.... I still need to cut the corners of the belt, but there doesn't seem to be a standard, i think i will angle them to about 45degrees and stop at the fabric belt. Then i made the covers...again, i looked through a bunch of EIB applications and everyonther one had the covers either on the edge of the belt (on the sides) or in the middle. Since my pre-dimmpled holes where in the middle, i just left them there. I can always cut the sides of the belt to make the covers flush w/ the sides if need be. and that's all for now. As always any and all comments are welcome. stay tuned!
  5. Very nice! You can't beat the Rubies blaster for the price! Good job!
  6. Hey Brian, I just PM'ed Jim (he's the guy who sells them) about his icomm system. First, you have to have a voicebooster for the icomm to work. Secondly, he stated that the icomm was made to work only w/ the one that he sells w/ it. I asked if i could use a different one and he stated it wouldn't work. hope this helps. Edit* here is the responce i got.... No, it will not likely work. the iComm relies on the voltage of our VoiceBooster amplifiers in order to activate. Cheap amps like the one Mike sells (trooperbay) use cheap batteries and do not deliver the needed voltage. My listing are pretty clear that you need a VoiceBooster for the iComm to work correctly. Even if it does work you may damage the iComm or the balance between voice and static burst sounds will not be right.
  7. Thanks for the response Joseph! I got the shoulder straps trimmed down and glued (see build thread below) I used E6000 so i can always redo it if i need to!
  8. NO!!! Sorry to hear that....but it turned out great though. Here is some updated pics of the weathering I did on mine. I know I still need to trim the T tracks and make some custom power cylinders. Ollie, i'll be using your pics as a referance!
  9. Update on the armor.. I got the shoulder straps trimmed up and then attached them to the armor I'll try to get some pics of the torso fully completed w/ me wearing it, but i need help to do that! Next I will be working on the shins and thighs, (thats were the help comes in) Stay tuned!
  10. Hey guys, I reached the point of my armor and got stuck, I couldn't really find a straight answer to this question. When it comes to the shoulder straps, the CRL states this Shoulder Straps For 501st approval: These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive. They do not mention where they need to be placed on the chest armor. Also I couldn't find a rule of thumb on how much trim if any i need on the sides of them.... I looked at a lot of screen stills and even EIB and Centurion apps and there doesn't seem to be a uniform requirement on them. Any advise would greatly be appreciated! Thanks.
  11. I accept and appreciate all comments, concerns and "HEY YOU DID THAT WRONG!" lol you can find my thread in my signature! Thanks!
  12. lol, i didn't see that you already had Centurion status! The armor turned out really nice!! Congrats! I was searching for something else to be honest but found your thread, just wanted to give props were props are due!
  13. Tony you are an insperation! I was nervous about my NE build when 90% of the armor was already trimmed for me..... but the fact that you stuck w/ it and put the time and effort to save the armor......pure awesomeness!! It definatley makes me feel better about my skills and willingness to complete the project, no matter what happens. Can't wait to see the finished product! Also I vote to have this pinned! Especially when it's done! This will be a great source for all future TKs!!!
  14. Nice job Ollie! That turned out great! What did you use for the power cylinders?
  15. Hey everyone, Got some more work done last night... I finished the hand plates! and then i got the arms all strapped up and attached to the torso. and attached.. I tried to get a pic of me wearing it......but I couldn't snap the right shoulder bell w/ the left arm on! I might try and have a friend come by and help take some more pics. I can start to see the light at the end of the tunnel! as always, please let me know if you see anything wrong or funky! Stay tuned!
  16. The doopy doos kit for the hasbro wouldn't work on these blasters... the reason the doopy doos is needed for the hasbro is because it doesn't have the folding stock and some other thing found on the blaster. The Rubies has the correct amount of T tracks, the d-ring, the counter, the folding stock and the scope. the only things that are missing is the power cylinders and the latch to hold the stock on the bottom back of the blaster. I think the rubies is smaller than the hasbro as well and the doopys kit wouldn't fit....
  17. Hey everyone, so i had some more time this weekend to work on the armor. I got the biceps attached to the forearms and the shoulder snaps to attach the biceps.... i might have to lengthen this a little, after the test fit it was a little tight and hard to move at the elbow.... Then i test fitted where the shoulder needed to be straped up... Then i glued the snap plates in place... Finally I got the elastic glued on to the hand plates.. and thats it for now. next i'll post some pics of the completed arms attached to the shoulder straps and see how everything fits together Stay tuned!
  18. I used the CRL on the 501st website as a referance. But to be honest....i just looked at a lot of pics and went from there. I had some spare lamp parts from when i worked at a lighting store, so i;m sure i can make some power cylinders that are close. best advise is to go to a local hardware store (one that sells nuts and bolts and other stuff in small quantities) and try and find things that look close enough to what is on the gun. The Rubies is better than the hasbro, because it has the scope, the butt stock and the T tracks and the counter as well. I'm still working on mine and have a few more ideas on how to mod it. Keep checking by thread every once in awhile for more ideas. Also you did the right thing by posting a build thread. Everyone here will give you great advice and feedback!
  19. Hey John, I'm not a "pro", but I'm good with my hands, and a little creative. you can check out my rubies e-11 thread in my signiture for some ideas. (see below) They don't look to bad, and w/ some mods, they can turn out pretty good. Can't wait for the pics. Good luck!
  20. The brand of Caulk that i used states that it is water proof and will handle high heat as well. Also it is pretty flexible and will handle the stress of trooping. It is something to consider if it does discolor over time, but if anything, it is cheap and easy to apply and easily removed so you can always replace it.
  21. looks good! also, the paint will never be perfect and it shouldn't! If you look at the screen shots of the movie, every TK is different and has it's own quirks....that's what makes it TK! Keep up the good work!
  22. Hey everyone, sorry for the delay in updates.....my apt was broken into last week Luckly they only took a few items....and left the armor alone. but dealing w/ the insurance and police has been difficult.... so i don't have a lot to update.. Here is what I did to fix the gap on the forearms.... I used white caulk, more specifically silicone. You can get it at home dept/lowes for around 4 bucks. Before And after... and some shots of the other side... So thats all i have for now. this weekend i will be attaching the biceps to the forearms w/ elastic straps and then fitting the shoulders. Stay tuned....
  23. Looking good man! I'm using caulk to fill in the gaps on my forearms. stuff comes off pretty easy so it won't be hard to replace. I'm almost done w/ the arms on mine, but i got the whole torso done and strapped up. (check out my thread for ideas) Keep up the good work!!
  24. as far as caulking goes, i'm using some white caulk to fill the gaps in my forearms and biceps. It states on the tube that the stuff is waterproof, and will handle heat. Also it is flexible enough that it won't crack under stress and the color matches fairly well. over time it might discolor but i can always replace it, it seems to come off easily enough. with the ears? I would say to leave them be....
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