trooper96

Success and failure... Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Made molds for folding stock hinge pins, bayonet lug, magazine catch, and muzzle tonight. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Does anyone know how the selector switch is disassembled from the trigger group?

Here are the same test parts cast in the proper resin. I am very encouraged so far with the way these parts turned out. Very excited to proceed with the rest of the project. I made one-piece molds for the front sight block and magazine release button this weekend. I am also making my first attempt at a two-piece mold for the end cap. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Parts debrazed... It wasn't nearly as hard as I thought it would be. I bought a Bernzomatic TS8000 torch from Lowe's. It's a high intensity soldering and brazing torch that uses MAP fuel instead of regular propane. If you ever have to do this, heat it from the inside until red hot. Grab the part with pliers and rock back and forth until loose. The muzzle, as predicted, gave me a fit. It should have just fallen through the barrel tube except it is pinned in two places. I had to grind the pins down then cut the barrel tube open to extract the muzzle. I did not attempt to remove the ring from the back end. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Test parts demoulded. Look, even the knurling on the bolt heads came through... Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Thanks, Art! Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

And so it begins... I had Alumilite silicone (Hobby Lobby) on hand so I went ahead and made a couple of one-piece molds. The tall one is the charging handle. The other is the three socket head bolts. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Scott, Do you plan to hollow out the entire mag well and open up the receiver tube, or cut off the business end of the magazine? How deep a recess?

Thanks, I'll try that. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Yeah, they torched off one of the corners of my ejection port guard. The rest looks salvageable. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Just picked up 4.5 lbs of sulfur-free goodness! Cross one more item off my to do list... Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I am having a very difficult time removing the front sight block from the dovetail. It doesn't seem to want to move at all. Any ideas?

OK, on the de-brazing... I talked with a welder friend of mine this morning and he said a propane torch MAY be enough for silver solder if it's a good one. He said to try that, and if it didn't work, he would take his oxy-acetylene torch to it. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Hey, look what came in the mail today! I got this for $17.99 plus $5.00 shipping and got it in two days from Oregon to South Carolina! http://www.44mag.com/product/sterling-smg-magazines/sterling_smg Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the information! I don't know if I will have access to an oxy-acetylene torch. I may know someone who has one. If not, will a propane torch get hot enough?

Tonight, I disassembled the stock arms from the pivot. It took about 10 minutes, a little penetrating solvent, and a some mechanical persuasion.

Just playing around with the parts and assembled as many as I could. Here's some of the fine details I hope to capture when I make the molds.

I have been thinking about eventually using these parts to make a legit all metal blaster. That would be so cool! My plan for the immediate future is to mold and cast the parts for a pipe build. Interestingly, I trial fitted the bolt with a 1-1/4" PVC pipe (1.36" [34,5mm] I.D.). It's very snug, but it does fit. The O.D. is a little big at 1.66" [42,2mm], but it's cheap, readily available and easy to work with. A more accurate choice would be 1-1/4" EMT conduit 1.51" [38,4mm] O.D./1.38" [35,1mm] I.D., also fairly cheap and readily available, but metal. Not so easy to work with. Anyway, it may be a while before I'm at that point. First, I have a few questions: 1. What is the best way to clean and prep the parts? 2. Is it necessary to separate all the parts from the barrel casing and body? a. Is it just a matter of desoldering? How do I do that? b. How is the muzzle removed from the barrel casing? 3. For filling and mold making, what clays are sulfur-free? 4. I don't have a fancy scale or de-gassing vat. Is OOMOO a good choice for molding silicone? 5. I see most people use urethane plastic resin to cast parts. Would there be a down side to using semi-rigid resin like Smooth-Cast 65D/66D? Thanks in advance for your valuable input!

OK, first things first... these parts are filthy! Definitely coated with a dirty greasy film and what looks like paint or some coating in places. For those who have already been down this path, what did you use to clean, strip and prep the parts?

Yeah, I think so. Shame, though...

So, I got a brown box Friday with goodies inside!

Nicely done!

I ordered 2m of US52 and 4m of SWR149. It was a little more than was needed to do 5 helmets.

OK, I have decided to go in a completely different direction. Today I ordered this... http://www.apexgunparts.com/submachine-guns/sterling-l2a3-mkvi/sterling-l2a3-smg-parts-set-9x19-nato-4833.html I'll put my blaster back together and start a new thread when my kit arrives. Thanks again for the great advice!