Hermanator

No problem!! I'll try to help you out a bit further by explaining what I decided to buy, so that I could have more magnets for less money.. thus less waiting, like you said. The best value for me was: ---------- and ------------- 50 of each size magnet, which is plenty... costing between $0.44 and $0.60 each. I think you'll find this to be an outstanding price for the size & pull strength, if you took the time to compare to more expensive N52 magnets in a practical use (such as 4mm distance between magnets). The 20mm magnets have 50% more pull strength, when stacked together, for half the cost of the N52 3/4" ones. The 15mm magnets have 4x the pull strength, without stacking, for approximately the same cost as the N52 5/16" ones, which are half the size & only cover half the width of the cover strip. It was just a little more to get 50 versus 30, so may as well have extra if you need them. I figured the most I would need at a time would be 36 for the legs and 24 for the arms, because I can't see myself gluing more than 4 pieces of armor at a time. If I spaced each magnet out 1.5x its width along the coverstrips, which is the smallest amount of space I've seen them spaced, then I would need 18 per thigh coverstrip and 18 per shin coverstrip. I would also need 12 per forearm coverstrip and 8 per bicep coverstrip. Keep in mind, this many is not necessarily needed... but it's about as close as you can get them together practically. Keep in mind, that you can also stack magnets, small and big ones, for more pull strength. I plan on stacking my 15mm magnets on top of the 20mm magnets when I'm not using them. If I end up with WAY too many magnets, I'll post them up for sale. I'm sure I can find a use for them somewhere though.

Clamps are pretty straight forward: Plastic with the rotating clamp head doesn't pinch as hard as metal and spreads out the force. So it's going to do less damage to the plastic (may still want to put some electrical tape over them though). Magnets are a little more complicated. Rare Earth Magnets (Neodymium) strength varies based on two things: size and rating. The higher the rating (N32 to N52), the more pull strength. The larger the size, the more pull strength. Great, so what does that tell you? Nothing. Higher rating magnets cost more money, so larger magnets (that still work for your project) are more cost efficient than buying higher rating magnets. Placing two equal size magnets to one another produces approximately the same pull force as one magnet of equivalent size also. Here is a calculator that can help you compare magnet strengths: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/calculator.asp You can also browse various magnet pull strengths here: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/magnetsummary.asp#discs Back to the calculator: Make sure to enter in the distance between the magnets, because it makes a BIG difference! I used 4mm distance as a baseline. FYI, N52 5/16" by 1/18" measures about 0.46 lb thru 4mm. N52 3/4" by 1/18" measures 2.5lb thru 4mm. I'd aim for 15-17mm and 20-25mm wide magnets to fit the arm and leg coverstrips. Then compare prices of various thicknesses & ratings, while obtaining the amount of force you want them to have. Try searching ebay in millimeters, not inches, for the best prices. Higher quantity is usually the best deal too. I actually found that I could get 100 20x3mm magnets for 10% cheaper than 50 20x5mm magnets. So you have the option of double-stacking magnets for double pull strength, which is actually stronger than a single 5mm anyway, at a lower cost. Hope this helps someone because the cost of magnets add up fast!

They are pretty comfortable out if the box. Not the reason I'm replacing my insoles, but ty. Just asking if anyone has removed them.. Sent from my LG-MS770 using Tapatalk

Has anyone tried removing the Insoles from TKboots? They seem to be glued down, and I don't want to ruin them. They'll probably come up okay, but I wanted to check with everyone here first. I'm wanting to remove them and replace them with my Sure Foot insoles. I don't want to destroy the old ones though, in case I need to use them again. Already tried various combinations of the insole on top of the existing insole.

many of us bookmark and follow our favorite threads and references, and I thought it would be a good idea to share those in a single place, since the build threads folder has gotten so large over the years and many folks reference the same ones. Not looking to skimp on research.. Just thought it'd be good to have an overview thread that pointed folks to some if the best methods used in building. FISD has lots of good information on it, so much that it's near impossible to organize in a manner such that good information makes it's way to everyone. I was just making an attempt at bringing peoples favorite advice together even closer. Thank you all for sharing the great pointers so far. Sent from my LG-MS770 using Tapatalk

What are the Best Build Threads for ANH Stunt armor? Particularly screen-accurate build threads with measurements, methods used, etc. At this point, there are too many build threads for newbies to scan over all of them and learn from. I have found a few good threads, and a lot of incomplete threads. Unfortunately, I'm having to filter out the build threads that I look at based on Who did it, how recent it is, and what type of armor it is. That leaves out a bunch of build threads that probably have great, overlooked advice. I want to build a Centurion, screen accurate suit. Easier to say than Do without the proper measurements, reference materials, photos, Dos/Don'ts from experience, etc. I know there are some really good folks here to ask questions to, but I don't want to bug the same people over and over.. we all have lives.. and those people have written the info down before. Please share any build threads that you think folks would really benefit from (and why if you can). If this post becomes informative enough, it'd be nice to have it stickied (or a new thread made and the info copied there).

Oh, and I've seen that Vader Dave has a nice design as well. Can anyone comment on how well it works in comparison to a the simpler single-strap design? Do the plastic adjusters get in the way or dig in? I was considering getting a sturdy nylon belt meant for load-bearing, such as police duty belts or Wilderness belts. I have a 5-stitch Wilderness belt that is very flexible around the waist, but it doesn't sag under 4 pounds of weight. I may do this and rig up my holster to it through the canvas belt and armor.

I love the idea of using two snaps instead of one. Great suggestion!! I am planning my build now, and it's great advice. What are Men's elastic braces? When I google it, orthodontics is all that comes up. Are they the same as Suspenders, or are they leg braces of some sort? When you stitch the elastic loops around the belt, do you attach them to the belt also, so that they don't rotate? If it is on loosely, it could be a good idea to poke a hole through the elastic and the belt and install a Chicago Screw, or something similar. This would keep it from rotating around your waist, but would also allow you to adjust it for different waist sizes (by poking new holes). For the shoulders and thighs, I was thinking about gluing a horizontal plastic Rod on the inside of the armor and wrapping the elastic around that (snapping it above it). This would keep tension off of the snap so it doesn't unsnap, but I'm not sure how well the plastic rod would hold up.

I know these things aren't complicated, and they don't have to be complicated... but no one talks much about these two items. I think most folks use a Nylon waist band and an elastic strap for each thigh. It would be cool if everyone shared their Thigh and Shoulder garter/attachment systems here.. especially the more unique methods. Show off your thigh and shoulder garters!

I am wondering the same thing about this glue. It is Ethanol based and specific for plastics. Does anyone know what generic category this stuff falls into? Is it an ABS glue, a generic plastic glue, a CA glue, an industrial glue? Since no one seems to have experience with this, I think I'll stick with either ABS cement or E-6000.

Has anyone made anymore progress on Identifying the original equipment that this part was used in? I've been doing my own research based on a lot of the information found here, and I've gotten close at times, but no cigar. I'm sure many of you, especially Andy, have felt the same way. I'll share some of what I've found: The 6-valve chassis used is EXTREMELY similar to the Pye T.R.F. ER50 valve chassis used in their military Radar equipment. After reading about it, this chassis originated from some T.R.F. 45 Mhz valve TV sets, and Pye adapted them for Radar use. One primary difference is the size of valve though; the ER50 is a larger diameter valve than what's used in the SW part. The SW part is uses 6 Miniature Valve Sockets (style BG7). Pye had made AT LEAST one TRF chassis with 6 miniature valves before they quit making the TRF chassis altogether. The one chassis like this that I found was a TV chassis, and it was missing the Capacitors sticking up near the sockets. You can find a picture of the Pye TRF chassis at the Pye History website under Military equipment. The "power cylinders" are actually ruggedized tubular Capacitors. I've found several Schematics online of Valve Radios, Televisions, and Broadcast cameras making use of one or two of these types of Capacitors. British Military equipment used a lot of these capacitors, from what I saw of the internals of large British Navy Navigation Radios. (google image search). The smaller hollow rods with wires coming out of them are also tubular capacitors, once again found on some valve radio schematics and ebay parts listings. I initially thought the plug on the board was a Pye Coaxial connector because it would only make sense. However, it does not have the threaded nut around the outside of the connector plug like Pye's coax connectors do. At the same time, the center-pin of the plug does not appear to pertrude much beyond the rim of the connector like a typical RCA audio plug does. I believe this plug is more closely related to the RCA Audio style than coax connectors, but there's no way to be sure. It is strange to me that the plug is not ruggedized and threaded to prevent vibrating loose, if did have a military use. I believe the chassis is an Amplifier chassis, as Andy stated, for mid to large sized military Radar, Navigation, or Radio equipment. LFL had to have found 20+ of these to equip them on the E-11s, landspeeder, spacecraft, and MSE droid.. so it had to have been fielded. Military surplus Metalmyte capacitors were also used in civilian equipment, and the TRF chassis had continued use in TVs after it was implemented in Radar. At least two other companies took over the Radar production after Pye left the scene. I hope this helps us get even closer to finding the original part... but I was unfortunately unable to find many specifics of these parts. :-\

Did you guys ever dig up the detailed photo of the gloves? All the Blu Ray close-ups show smooth gloves. This makes sense to me, since SW used a lot of military surplus... and that's the cheapest, most readily available bulk rubber gloves.

Awesome!! Thank you!!

Does anyone have a datasheet for the Eagle 890 "Hengstler" 400 series counter? Or does anyone have information on the pins, input Voltage, and input Current for operation?

Thank you guys!! Sent from my LG-MS770 using Tapatalk

Yeah i just found it here and on the Web elsewhere. Too bad it doesn't help us get them any easier lol. Same thing with the power cylinders and t track.. We know what it came from, but soooo hard to actually trace down

Thank you for clearing that up for me!! good to know those are comfy shoes.. That was Another thing i was looking for in mine. Sent from my LG-MS770 using Tapatalk

All great finds!! What's the most accurate boots you've found yet? I see various styles.. Chelsea, Jodphur.. What was actually used and what is the difference? Is TKboots the most accurate, or is something off the shelf more accurate? Sent from my LG-MS770 using Tapatalk

Fantastic work!! Do you recommend that others wanting Centurion status to go this route or simply wait to buy TKboots? I'm starting to build my armor, and I cannot build shins till I have boots. I can either get some black ones now or wait a month or two for TK. In a way, i like the painted look for accuracy.. Sent from my LG-MS770 using Tapatalk

Thanks ibnz! I appreciate the detailed description!! I might try my regular size with insoles then.. Hmm Sent from my LG-MS770 using Tapatalk

I'll try Ace then. Lowes and HD have a poor selection of threads usually Sent from my LG-MS770 using Tapatalk

I'm in the market for an M38/M40 scope, but most for sale are missing the screws. What Size/Thread screws will the scope accept? Does anyone have any particular recommendations that work? Thank you!

Holy cow lol sounds like i should go for the seven then. I was wanting enough room to put an insole in if i needed to, but it sounds like there's plenty of space Sent from my LG-MS770 using Tapatalk 4

I want to order some boots from TKboots one he is up and running again. I have talked to him and read his sizing info. I know sizing runs narrow and long. Seems like the consensus is to go with a half size smaller. What has your experience been with sizing? How does it compare to other brands and styles? I have a 9.75" long, narrow foot, and I'm trying to figure out what size to order. I normally wear an 8 or 8.5 in most laced shoes and boots (merrell, new balance, magnum), but i wear a 7 or 7.5 in most laceless footwear (merrell, chaco, etc). It's always a close call because 7 rubs my toes sometimes and my heels slip in size 8 sometimes. Sent from my LG-MS770 using Tapatalk 4

Can someone explain to me the required level of weathering for HWT? I see some that are pristine clean like a fresh TK, and some that look like they have been bathing in grease, like a sandtrooper but black. From the screenshots, I see the HWT as being interchangeable with a more weathered, screen accurate TK, such as dime of those on Tantive IV with some light, but obvious gray and black wear. I think the game designers added weathering for depth and to show they've seen action. In fact it just looks like a little dirt and dust from the environment that could be rubbed off It it possible to get Centurion TK and Centurion HWT with the same armor weathering? If not, how high can you go with a Tantive IV weathered HWT? I think you should be able to get both by keeping the same base armor.. That's a lot of the appeal of HWT over TD, and the weathering differences with the more weathered TKs aren't very noticeable. Sent from my LG-MS770 using Tapatalk 4