Dark CMF

So, my plan for the scope is similar to the modification done by SIMpixels in his build thread. As previously shown, I have a monocular which I ordered on the bay of E - a monocular is fine there, armor is not - I have to take it apart in order to use the lenses for my scope. This part was really easy - the lenses just unscrew from the body. The eyepiece on the smaller lens also unscrews for easy removal. One more piece unscrewed from the small lens, leaving it ready for installation in the scope, after some clean-up. Small lens assembly completely taken apart for cleaning. Large lens removed - it has a retaining ring that unscrews to remove it. This was done after I took the Dremel and cut the aluminum apart trying to get the lens freed up. It was quite simple to unscrew the ring once I paid attention to which way the threads went. Front (small) lens resting on the scope. Large lens resting on the resin one that it is destined to replace. I'm going to use this 7/16" spade bit to drill out the front of the scope. The drilling will now begin! For the large lens, I'll be using the 7/8" spade bit. Lesson to learn here - MARK the center, instead of eye-balling it. Clearly, this is off-set to the left just a little bit. After a short bit of drilling, I switched over to the 13/16" bit to reduce the size of the drilling in the scope. This would create a "ledge" or "shelf" for the lens to sit on, and the scope will still be hollowed out some beyond it. If you put a light right above it, you can see how far into the scope you've drilled. Switching to the 3/4" bit to drill it out a little bit deeper still. Getting there - but not quite where I want it to be. Another check using the light. As I said in the last post, it isn't quite where I want it. Looking much better now! 5/8" bit to finish it up... Quick test fitting of the lens. Off-centered, as I mentioned earlier, but still looking good! Another look. Here you can see that the retaining ring is not snapped into place on the top of the scope. Back to the light for a depth check... When viewed from the side, you can see the difference from left to right, and that it is off-centered. Originally, I mentioned using this lens in one piece. I actually had not decided that until this point, when I realized that I wasn't sure how to install the small lens. Once I realized this, I had to put it back together. LoL. Here is a look at the lens in place.. And, SURPRISE!!! It won't fit. I used the bit that matched the size of the lens. I need to make the chamber a little bit wider to accommodate the whole assembly. I used the 9/16" spade bit as it is slightly wider than the lens assembly. Much better. It will just require some epoxy when it is assembled finally. So, that's where I'm at, at the moment. As mentioned, I'll still have a bit of detail work to do, and a bit of fabrication (counter numbers and mounting hardware) before I can begin assembly. That's it for today, please leave your comments and questions here for the build / work so far, and thanks for reading along!

As I mentioned, I have some photos to share. Here they are: First one is a look at the "Test Paint" piece of PVC. Here you can see it with the words visible (though not clearly readable) through the finish. This pic was taken beyond the 48 hour "cure" window for the paint, so this is how it finishes. About to take the insides out of it so that I can prep it for priming. Here's my prep material. LoL. FINALLY a purpose for all of those plastic bags from the store. Stuffing the insides with the bags so that I can prime/paint it without turning the insides white. All stuffed up... and ready to prime! Except for one small detail... I still don't have the proper nuts and bolts to put on the cylinders, and as a result of that, I simply don't WANT to start the priming and painting. I can't simply overlook that detail. It will make me crazy forever. So, I'll move on to something that I can currently control - the assembly process for the charging handle and the bolt. This is what I'll be working with. Drilling a hole through the bolt, so that I can secure the charging handle to it, after it has been placed in the upper receiver. Hole is drilled through both sides. Pressing the tip of the screw against the bottom of the charging handle to mark where it needs to be drilled. Hole is marked. The hole in the bolt is not big enough for the screw head to be recessed, so I'll use the exacto blade to widen it. Drilling the hole in the charging handle. Marking the point where the screw needs to be cut, to fit into the chamber. Here, the screw head is recessed into the bolt, and the Dremel is ready to cut the screw to the appropriate length. Here it is, assembled (outside of the blaster, obviously). We'll see if it goes together as smoothly. I already know that I'll have to have some epoxy involved in the assembly process as the screw doesn't stay still at all when I do this, and I won't be able to use a screw driver once it is in the chamber. Screw head recessed. It will fit just fine. Moving right along... Here is the monocular. I must disassemble it, in order to proceed with my next project - the scope - which will begin in the next post - coming soon. Leave your comments and questions, etc, here please.

So... I've got about 50 or so pics from last night's work loaded in photobucket, and ready to bring this way for sharing with all of you. I did some work to figure out how I will assemble the bolt and charging handle, and did some substantial work in the area of scope modification. They should be posted tonight!

Very good info, Vern. Thanks!

Two ideas come to mind immediately: Two piece, spring-loaded bolt. You could grind down those thicker walls in the bolt area, and taper the back of the bolt so that as you drew the charging handle backwards, the piece of the bolt that is up against the opening would slide "inside" the smaller tube. Not positive how exactly it would work, but it has my wheels turning now. As for the numbers in the bolt... If you could find some metal stamps (like for leather work) of the numbers, you might be able to heat them and press the numbers into the resin. Again... No practical knowledge here, pure speculation, but it might work out. I believe someone did something similar with some green stuff very recently, to change the serial number on a Doopydoos magazine.

I've heard the same thing (freezing it). I also know someone that was trying to take apart a TD on their TB, and spent a week trying to cut, sand, etc the E6000 to get it apart. I told him "hey, I've heard that putting it in the freezer for a few hours would work." He put it in the freezer overnight and said that it came apart VERY easily the next morning. So, although there is no first-hand experience with it, I've got it from a reliable and tested source that doing so will work, for what that's worth.

Can't wait to join you in that line of thinking. LoL My kit should be ready for shipping in May sometime. Just around the corner!

LoL. Awesome! So... Where's the interest list?

Certainly better than the options of Cake or Death.

It was a little bit difficult for me. Based on wanting to have a good-looking armor when assembled, and not break the bank completely. I'm just tall enough (6'2") that constantly reading "the kit will work well for anyone up to about 6' tall" made me quite paranoid about black space showing. I suppose that it comes down to what feels right for you and meets all of your criteria.

Also, yeah... I'm not competing with anyone but myself, and the calendar, I suppose. . I also think that it is awesome to see a group of build threads come along all at once and collectively push the envelope or raise the bar maybe when it comes to "what can be done" with the Doopydoos kit. I'm excited to be a part of it with you!

Looking great, Tino. Really great. I'm with Steve... That thinning of the shields - brilliant - and also on the "Next time" list of mods. LoL Just a thought - on that counter button - without being able to see what is directly under it, you very possibly could do something very similar to what I did. If there is any sort of recess beneath your button (or if you are able to create one) you could get a spring in there and perhaps use two channels on the sides where your button's "feet" are. That was my original plan, but I realized that with the Doopy, it was less integral to have the feet extend any further. Food for thought.

Walt, PM sent... Ericia, thank you!!!

LoL... MEPD's is 421, and I couldn't get it to work to save my life.

Ditto. Ditto. Ditto. Read, start collecting "other" parts, read, read... You'll be fine.

Truth be told, I am intrigued. Thank you, everyone. We're really excited!

I know that this isn't an actual "FIX" but it is sort of a work-around that MIGHT work. I say that, because I recently had the exact same experience over at MEPD. The way that I was able to get my account setup was to go through the Tapatalk app. When I did that, it allowed me to create an account. I have been able to sign in there regularly and consistently, using the same credentials I created during the Tapatalk account creation. I don't know if your recruit has access to it or not, but that trick worked for me in the similar situation at MEPD. Might work here to get him signed up, at least.

But we are expecting our second (another boy) somewhere around late July/early August!!! We've just been keeping it on the D/L for awhile.

Thanks for the kind words, Brian! The timing I used was specifically to allow the VHT Wrinkle Finish paint to "set" the finish, and is spelled out in exactly the way that I described it in the directions on the can. That is an issue only for the VHT, as you mentioned. The more critical issue in timing of paint lies in the paint vs. assembly timeline. Since different parts will have different finishes on them, I'm thinking that future builds will have a different approach in some way. Some parts would ideally be painted prior to assembly as masking them (especially the cylinders and the magazine release button) will be more difficult after assembly than painting them prior to assembly. The issue there becomes the ability to fill the gaps with Bondo should you choose to do so, and then sanding/painting again. It will be interesting, no doubt.

Clearly, the smaller one served a valiant and important purpose in the build. LoL. The issue was that it was not very precise. The rotation had a slight flutter in it. The Dremel presents no such flutter, but it is larger - so a little more difficult to wield, especially in smaller areas for finer details, but the precision of it and the power it has, combined with the variable speeds make it capable of doing so much. I am a fan of it. I'm really happy with the counter, and how it turned out. I still need to get the numbers figured out before I begin painting and assembling though.

Okay... TWD is over (almost a second time) and man, what a season finale!!!! One of the best episodes ever! Anyway, I didn't do any building today, but I did some preliminary "test-painting" to figure out one of the techniques that I may or may not use - depending on how the test proceeds. Let's get to the pictures, this one is short and sweet. Unlike the wait for the next new episode of The Walking Dead. Pffft... October. Here's what I'll be testing with today: Krylon White Plastic Primer, Rust-Oleum Flat Black, and VHT Wrinkle Finish Black (a big thank you to Steve (Gazmosis) for that find). The purpose of the test is to see if the VHT will "work" on both/either a coat of primer or a base coat of flat black over the primer. As previously mentioned, make sure that you have primer that is made specifically for plastics. Acetone is no-no good when applied to plastic, and the paint has acetone so you need to have a primer. Here's what I'll be test-painting today. The remaining piece of the 18" PVC pipe that is my inner barrel and bolt. I'm going to do a little bit of etching in the pipe, to see how the finish does with details cut into the plastic. "TEST PAINT" is scratched into the side with the exacto knife. I'm going to hit it with a bit of 1200 grit sandpaper to soften up the finish on the PVC. It is sanded, and ready for priming. Coat hanger remnant to hang it, and we're just about ready to go. Hanging it from the fan on the back porch - the fan is off. LoL Primed and drying - ready for a bit of masking - after about twenty minutes of drying, that is. Masked and prepared for the flat black application. Ready to hit it with the flat black... Going to let the flat black dry for about 4 hours before un-masking and applying the VHT Wrinkle Finish. Flat black, dried. Flat black, un-masked. Switching to the VHT, which is only sideways so that I can now say this: You turned your head sideways to read it, didn't you? You've got to follow the directions with this paint. Apply the first coat vertically (up and down) and wait for five minutes - here you can see the iPad ticking down the time between coats. Coat two is applied horizontally (side to side) and another five minute wait before applying the third coat. The third and final coat goes on diagonally. Then you wait two hours for the wrinkle finish to set-up. All told, you've got to wait 24 - 48 hours before assembly after you do this paint job, so make sure that you've got a place that you trust to leave the blaster sit, undisturbed for two days. Coat #3 + 3 hours. You can see the finish setting up, and you can still see the "TEST PAINT" in the finish - not VERY clearly, but it is there. The flash makes it look shinier than it really is. So that's it. Clearly, applying the VHT Wrinkle Finish paint works equally well on primer and a base coat of another color on top of primer. The reason that I wanted to figure this out is because I think it makes sense to do a primer coat, followed by a base coat of flat black. Once that is dry, I'll mask off the non-wrinkle parts, and apply the wrinkle paint to the appropriate areas before unmasking, and finishing the details (like an over/top coat of gunmetal to bring down the shine) afterwards. So, yeah... No work today, per se... But I'd call the test successful. Comments, questions, concerns, etc... Leave them here, and thanks as always for following along!

That ear work is absolutely beautiful and imaginative, Aaron. You're going to provide some excellent new options for people with this stuff! Keep having fun. Loving the work you're doing so far!!

Okay. Updates: As you've already seen, my counter has been amped/modded up. Here's how that happened - in graphic detail. First things first, I "traced" the counter onto a piece of paper to use as a template for the ABS. I took the measurements that can be found in other build threads and added them to my template. In order to complete my own particular mod, I need the button to be different, of course. This picture shows the same paper template with the button drawn in as well. I covered the template with scotch tape, and cut it out. The template was then taped onto the corner of a sheet of 3mm thick ABS, and the exacto knife was readied for action. This is why it was readied. Once the template was taped to the corner (guaranteeing ONE squared corner) I used the exacto to cut the counter window out of the paper, and into the ABS. The window removed from the paper template. If you look at my measurements on the paper, you'll notice that they differ slightly from the ones found in the FISD build threads. I had to allow a little bit of extra space around the button, in order to accommodate the work that I'd be doing to make the button pressable. The button hole has been cut out, also. Here, I've cut the template free of the tape, leaving behind an exacto "scoring" of the ABS in the proper shape with the window and button scored into it as well. Closer photo, detailing the measurements of the button. The button template was then covered in tape and the same process was repeated. I taped it just next to the cover plate that is scored into the ABS. And the button is also cut out of the paper, and into the ABS. After removing the templates and the tape, the corner of my ABS sheet looks like this. Here are the templates, taped to my ruler, so that they can be saved and used again later. This is a carpet knife actually. I was using it to score the outer edges of the cover plate. You can see the outer lines are a little thicker than the others here. Soon, I got tired of feeling like my hands were going to turn into blisters from using the carpet knife, so I changed tools and it went very quickly after that - for the cover plate. Here you see the cover plate at the back of the counter. Needs to be trimmed a bit. Took my pencil and traced the counter's shape onto the cover plate. There are two cover plates currently being fabricated. At this point, I'm not sure how well I'll do in cutting the windows out of them. Sigh... Look, a molding divot in my counter! It is now filled with putty, and you can see my sketch on the bottom of the counter where I will carve in some more of the missing details later. Time to break out the rotary tool, and a sanding wheel to clean up the edges of those cover plates. One on top of the other - the top one looks good. Yes, the other one definitely needs some sanding as well. Not perfect, but good enough for me to begin my next step. Once I put it together, I'll be shaping the cover plate to match up with the counter itself, anyway. To cut the button out of the ABS, I'm going to go to the rotary tool and a cutting wheel. Too many corners to try to use the hacksaw. LoL. Nearly there! Button cut out, but not done - still need to cut the divot into the bottom of it. Divot cut, button looks as though it will fit into the button hole in the cover plate - once I get it cut out, that is. Going to try the drill bit to get the button hole cut. And, here you see the result of the drill bit. It jumped, and scratched up the cover plate. Good thing I've got another one, and good think I've got the grinding bit to use instead... Definitely not pretty yet. I'll take a sanding file to it, but more care needs to be used when cutting these openings in the cover plates - that is for sure. Here is that sanding file that I was alluding to... Time to sand it and shape it better. The button fits! Still not perfect, but with the button in the hole, it doesn't look quite as alarming to me as it did without it. Here, you can see the button inserted into the cover plate, above and below it. SHOPPING BREAK!!! I broke down and bought the Dremel (4200 as you see - variable speed, EZ lock system - very nice!), some rubber furniture stoppers - for the feet - they will stop my bolt from "clicking" (it will all make sense eventually), a knife kit, and some flat black Rust-Oleum spray paint. A comparative view of the rotary tool vs the Dremel. The Dremel is three times larger - and so there is a steep learning curve going from the rotary tool to the Dremel. The other way would probably be less steep in some regards. The Dremel is easily two to three times as powerful and significantly more stable. It is a dream to work with, but I've decided that it is best to start with a slower speed and work your way up to a comfortable one for the material that you're using. The Dremel EATS the resin like me going through a can of Pringles or something. Start off in a manner you think is slow, and before you know it there's nothing left of it. If you're using it with ABS, the higher speeds generate a lot of extra heat, and you wind up melting the ABS, instead of cutting it. That gets messy (and it isn't much fun when it lands on your arms either) really quickly. High speed Dremel cut using a cutting wheel. To the right, the slower speed Dremel cut, using the same cutting wheel. The Dremel cutting bit for the button hole on this one. Again, slowing it down a bit would probably have avoided some of the mess that I'll have to use files to clean up here. Pilot hole for the button in the counter. Notice that I didn't do any marking/measuring before I started this. Not my normal MO, but I was overly excited and a little bit tired, and that is a bad combination. It will all be more clear momentarily why I say this. LoL Button channel is cut, centered on the counter. Did I mention that this was bad? If you think about the position of the button hole in the cover plate, IT, is not centered. So happy to have that hole drilled deeper in the center of the channel for the spring! Oh, wait - centered is bad. (See the resin "dust?") The spring (another pen was sacrificed in the building of the BlasTech E-11... RIP) perfectly centered in the counter!! Oh, dammit... that's right. Centered is BAD!!! It's all coming together so beautifully - in the center of the counter! Properly sanded cover plate with the button hole..... NOT CENTERED! LoL BONDO! For all of your $^%&-up repair needs!!! As previously stated. LoL. The NEXT button channel will not be drilled out in the center of the counter. Rest assured. Cleaned it up a little bit as I will be sanding the top 3mm off of the counter anyway, to make up for the depth of the cover plate. As long as the Bondo is out, I'm going to address some of the assembly gaps in the BlasTech. Like these ones! And this one! And definitely these ones! Bondo applied, carpet knife employed! It has the ability to make nice straight scrapes where the excess Bondo is concerned. More gaps being filled. Some more Bondo drying. Watching Bondo dry... ALMOST as exciting as watching paint. Well, while the Bondo is drying, I'll get some marks made for my Bolt. I've taken the remnant of my inner barrel, and measured out 3.75 inches for the Bolt. Turning the PVC against the Exacto to make my mark (approximately) at 3.75 inches all the way around. There it is. And that's it for Day 18. It is good to be able to post up these pictures for sharing with all of you - even if you've already seen the end result in action! Day 19 is already on the computer, but needs to be transferred to Photobucket for sharing here. It will happen this weekend, and I'll probably get a bit more work done on the blaster as well. Maybe I'll prime something! LoL. Questions, comments? Please leave them here. Thanks for following along! More coming soon

Truly an artist with the iron, Aaron! Great start!!

A WEEK!?!?! I guess I'll have to amp up my thread to keep the build appetites sated while you're away. LoL - I've got to get mine finished soon, anyway. Armor will be arriving Looking really good, Steve. Truly some masterful techniques displayed on this build, and I'm excited to see how it turns out in the end!