maxsteele

I'm trying to. I was filing and sanding those edges down for a bit today. I'll have to keep working on them.

I'm not sure if this diagram still applies to AP: I would ask for someone's opinion more familiar with the construction of AP to see if this is still the case. As for the bottom of the shins, if you are referring to the return edge, you can remove that. Otherwise it will dig into your boots. And the shins should fit down on top of the boots, which it looks like you're doing.

Alright, I've trimmed down each side of the pipe, and ground down the ends of the clips to be more flat. The gap between the end cap and the panel is about 3/4", and the total length from end-cap to end-cap is around 7 1/4:

Yep! And the thighs / shins are 10mm cuts on each side in the front to take a 20mm cover strip, then wrap and size the backs with a 25mm cover strip.

http://comicbook.com/blog/2014/08/16/exclusive-original-unaltered-cut-of-star-wars-trilogy-to-be-rele/ This will be fantastic if it is happening! I'm always leery of "our sources..." information, but it's something to watch out for.

Looking good with the painting! I feel you could go a little wider with the black on the tears, primarily at the bottoms. I had an issue with making them too small. After having some great feedback, this is the size my tears are:

Don't forget that you can put inner cover strips in as well if you need more structural support.

The shoulder elastic should be just long enough where the top of the shoulder edge is touching the shoulder plastic that goes from your chest to your back.

Oh - when I'm talking about the shoulder straps, I don't mean the ones that wrap around your arm. There should be a strap that connects the top of your shoulder piece to the strap that connects the front and back plates. I glued on a snap to the underside of the back-to-chest elastic, then glued a black elastic strip at the top of my shoulders, with the other side having the other snap. Then the shoulders snap into place. I don't have any pics of this, but here is a general idea: See the snap in the middle there? That's where the shoulder strap will snap into. And in this pic, you can see the strap at the top of the shoulder. Some people will put a snap plate at the top of the shoulder for that strap, but I glued my straps directly to the shoulder. Then the snap at the other end of the strap goes to the snap on the underside of the white elastic, which holds your shoulders in place.

The pic you just took of your forearm looks pretty good. How is the fit around your arm?

The back is where you wrap it around your forearm and get it fitted to your arm, which is how you know how much to cut from the back part. The front cover strip is the one you measure 7.5mm on each piece. The back cover strip is where you cut the forearm pieces to fit to your arm, lining up the back cut with the front cut, like so: In this photo, I have cut the front cover strip area to 7.5mm on each side, then I secured that in place with tape (and magnets), wrapped the forearm pieces around my arm, found the best fit, then measured and marked across from the front cut so it matched up in the back. Then I marked on the wrist and elbow end, drew a line to connect the two, and that's how I knew where to cut to make the forearms fit and have a cut point across from my front cut.

Because if they are, your elastic is too long. The shoulder pieces should be touching the ridged plastic parts that go from the the chest to the back plate.

The 7.5mm measurement on each side is for the front cover strip. Did you do the same measurements for the back cover strip?

Your shoulder pieces aren't attached to your shoulder elastic yet, are they?

Congrats Twan! I look forward to seeing your Centurion app!

Ab to Kidney plate - Make it comfortable but also try to make the two edges touch each other. Don't kill yourself, but you want this transition to be as close as possible. Belt overlap - Ideally, the belt overlap is the bottom rivet only: Belt Plastic - I used chicago screws to attach it to the belt. I like the ability to remove it from the cloth belt if I need to. I used the 3/16" screws from Ace Hardware: Ammo boxes - I did some looking on Wookiepedia, and found out that those are actually blast energy sinks. : http://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Stormtrooper_armor As for attaching them, attach one end of the elastic to the back of the ammo box, wrap it around the belt, and attach the other end. Some people use rivets, some people glue them, some people use velcro. Search around on the forums to find all the different ways people have done it and choose one that works best for you.

Honestly? If that is the Stormtrooper helmet for Ep VII - I want it!

Just make sure that when you bring your wrist fit in, you can still get your hands through! The opening should be just big enough to fit your hands through when you bring your thumbs in.

Hi Thomas! Looking good! I am not good enough to tell from looking at over-all photos of armor to be able to tell what type of kit it is. What type of armor do you have? I would like to see what your ab / kidney transition is like, if you're able to get some pics of the left / right with your arms up. From what I can see, I think your forearms and biceps might be a little large. I think you could definitely bring them all in some more. I can't see what your belt plastic or the position of your drop boxes looks like, because you're holding your hands in front of it. I think your sniper plate may be mounted too far down on your shin. The side edges should line up with the upper part of the shin.

Hi Twan! Congrats on finishing your RS build! It's looking good! I have some suggestions for improving the over-all look of your armor. Please don't make any changes until you hear from the DO: - The small elastic strip on your shoulders should be moved to the tabs on your back plate. You currently have it between the chest and back tabs. You have some good sized over-lap where your ab and kidney plates meet. You can definitely cut that down and have a good join between the ab and kidney. Your holster is mounted too far away from the end of your belt plastic: You can make your buttons on your ab plate wider: I believe you may need some close-up shots of your sniper and thigh battery pack. Good luck on your app!

Absolutely remove the return edge on the bottom of the shins. Otherwise they'll dig into your boots. That will also affect the fit of the shins, so make sure you have the return edges down there removed before fitting them around your legs.

I went until no more black came off. You will see a distinct difference between where the polish is, and where it isn't. It took me 45 minutes each boot to get all the polish off my Bass Amsterdams. And don't be shy with the acetone.

Yep. I actually did damage my armor when I was sitting the split rivets. The second one I put in I cracked my ab plate right to the end. What happened to me was I was trying to do this alone, propping up my ab piece against a table while I hammered the back of the rivet. I didn't have a solid anchor to set the rivet head on, and I was hitting with the hammer much too hard. I First, I mixed up some ABS paste and put it on the front and back: Then I superglued a reinforced piece of ABS in the back: And finally, I sanded down the front with smaller and smaller grits of sandpaper: Steve describes a good method of doing it. I would take it very slow, make small hits, and gradually work the split rivets down to a flat position. I'd also get a second pair of hands to hold the armor stationary so it didn't move while you were tapping the split rivet prongs.

Christian, You secure the male snaps to a snap plate - either a piece of ABS with a hole drilled in it, or a piece of webbing with a hole cut out / burned through. You take those male snap plates and glue them into position in various locations on your armor. Then, you take a length of elastic, cut / burn holes on each end, and secure female snaps to each side. That becomes the strap that you snap between two snap plates. Here's how I did my strapping:

Alright, I'll go with taking 1/8" off each end of the pipe. That will give me a total length of 7 1/4". I think a 7" total length is too short. It will certainly make the gap shorter and will improve the look.