sla73

Hey Yeti, The build looks great, but I want to know is, how good is that folding stock? Do you think that is strong and accurate enough to be used on a pipe build? Cheers

Thanks Chris. I hope to paint the Hengstler this week end.. stay tuned Cheers

Hi Chris, No I made the holes by hand (drill bit in my hands, the resin is quite soft), I did the first one in middle top by placing the part on top and marking it through the hole, the others were by eye.. Thanks for the tip re end cap clip..

that is totally on-mazing!

End cap clip, M38 Scope and Hengstler – Update 5Hi there, it’s been quite a while since I posted any updates and I have a few to share! End cap clip First the end cap clip, you can see here that I used Chris’s (themaninthesuitcase) printed part. For the spring I used one of my of my trusty collar stays cut down, bent it and super glued it down. I will probably revisit this and put some small grub screws in for some extra hold. Added the grub screws tonight.. I didn't have any countersunk ones so had to add a countersink to the spring. M38 Scope Next was the scope mod, I pretty much followed Chris’s (thrawns guard) mod here, the only bit of innovation was to sticky tape the prisms together to help with fitting. Oh and I didn’t use the drill as much on this, I got a couple of new bits for my dremel a 117 and 134 (high speed cutters) the 134 is nice and wide. As you can see below I needed to rebuild the wall up a little with some green stuff.. You can see below that I have fitted a laser print of Chris’s cross hairs, this is glued in with PVA as per Chris’s recommendations (thanks Chris!). I went for the more futuristic looking one. P.S if you need the files I have them in word doc format already re-sized. Looking through the front. Before painting. Here is a pic of the small end glued back to the main barrel, I still need to drill out a hole that I filled at the top. Hope I don’t get too much dry green stuff inside… Anyway this part of the scope build is on hold un till my antique brass paint arrives, Bunnings had everyone except the one I needed! Hengstler So because I decided to go with the resin scope because the real one I have might be too heavy for the doopy resin barrel I decided to mod the doopy resin Hengstler. I already had a replica counter from bluesnaggletooth all I needed was to look at sorting out the front piece with connectors. I saw that Chris (themaninthesuitcase) had found an authentic connector box, so I went and had a look on the AU RS Components site and they had some in stock. https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/counter-hour-meter-accessories/0165813/ So the rest is pretty standard, oh I did carve out the rungs on the bottom instead of gluing on the styrene. Okay that’s it… Just the mag and ejector and flash guards to go really. Then I can start gluing it all together. One question I do have for those who have already done a build, what glue to you use? 2 part epoxy or E6000? Thnx all and l8tr!

All good mate, did some digging around and found a thread where Aaron (useatt2) posted a link to a source for some screws that fit .. http://www.mcmaster.com/#92220a171/=yi0cyr Cheers

Looks like it is settled - a scope mod it is!

Thanks Chris, I am reconsidering whether I will use the real scope, I want to do a pipe build so I might save the real scope for that project. So it looks like I might need to do a scope mod... !

Frank you may wish to look at some 3D printed parts to give yr blaster a bit more detail.. Check out this build.. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/33740-themaninthesuitcase-doopydoo-build/

ah.... good old doopy dust.. have fun Frank...

Hi Dennis, Yes, this matter that I didn't really consider well.. I am now thinking that I might fill in the rear sigh with epoxy glue and go in as far as I can into the barrel with a screw. Edit - See the pic's below where there is a hole from the casting, that I have filled. The real M38 as you say is quite heavy.. Or I guess I might need to think about modding the resin one that came with the doopy kit and save the real scope for my next build which will be a pipe build...... hmmm..... Do you know of any troopers who have a real scopes on a resin blaster? Edit - I just had a thought, perhaps a drill a hole under the rear sight where the crew would go in and then epoxy glue a nut in, to screw into.. Cheers Bryn..

I love this part of the build, you really start to see all the detail and work come out! This walk through of your process is really nice, gives me loads to think about and the end result is so realistic. Thanks Tino.

Folding stock and sight guard and rear sightHello Again, I have a quite a few little updates to share, I only think I need to fit the magazine and do the ejector and mussel guards and I will almost be ready to think about painting. Anyway, I re did the sight guard as Tr00per pointed out to me that the knurling on the front was extending down too far. I wasn’t happy with my first go so off it came, I gave the piece a bit of a tidy up and thinned it out a bit too. I am really happy with how it turned out. I used green stuff, I have had problems with this putty before so my first thought was to try and get some magic sculpt, Chris (themaninthesuitcase) has used this on his build and the results were great. Anyway that option was way too expensive, $21 plus the same for shipping to Australia. So had a first go with milliput that was a disaster and went back to green stuff, I found the secret was to keeping fingers wet when sculpting. With the rear sight I decided to keep this simple, tidied up the resin casting of the outside bush and drilled a small hole through and drilled out the ends of an aluminium 1/6 rod and inserted it. Should come up nicely when painted. For the part in the middle of the folding stock I drilled holes and used a 5 mil aluminum rod and drilled out the ends. There are a few other mods, I drilled and shaped the butt of the folding stock! For the folding stock hinge bit, another pretty standard mod. I drilled out a washer and used a small spacer got from Jaycar. I am also considering using the space for the middle of the folding stock too. Lastly I put the grub screw is the magazine housing. That’s all folks and thanks. Cheers Bryn

Hi Brian, This is coming along really nicely, I was wondering do you know the size/ thread of the screws needed for the two holes on the base? Cheers Bryn

waiting..... is .... killing me....

Thanks Dennis, I will revisit that guard for sure. P.S 1966 was a good year, will make the SSMG 50 years old this year! Cheers Bryn

Magazine housing – magazine release button – Update 3Hello again, so it’s a long weekend here in Sydney (for ANZAC day) so I have had the opportunity to work on another mod. This time the magazine release button! I also picked up a toggle switch while I was at Jaycar this week getting the 2.5m jack for the selector switch. First step, I built up the release button with a leftover block of resin from the resin counter. The idea is make the shaft of the release button a little longer to hide the bits of the toggle switch. I shaped and drilled it out the and glued in the switch. Next I drilled a hole in the magazine housing and had to built up the bottom of the toggle switch up with a small piece of styrene left over from my helmet build. You will notice in the next picture that I had to grind the thread of the toggle switch down so it would move within the shaft of the release button. Up Down (my daughters finger) I will leave it unglued for now until I am ready to paint. Cheers all..

Can't believe I just found this build. More wow!

Selector switch modification – Update 2I decided to do the selector switch mod that I saw on Thrawn's Guard build, thnx J Chris. I previously had just done the standard nail and hole mod. But I just wasn’t happy with it. So I went off to Jaycar here in Sydney to get a male a female 3.5 mm stereo jack bits, but I found 2.5 mm ones so I thought smaller might be better. In the end I don’t really think there was much difference. One challenge I did come across was when drilling out the switch out I stared running of resin for my hole. I decide to fill the drill hole back up and just glue in the shaft into the switch. I had to grind the back of the 2.5 mm male plug to get the shaft free, once I grinded enough of it just pulled out form the front of the plug. Anyway the rest was pretty standard, drilling and gluing with epoxy etc. I managed to get the female piece in nice and flush, but I did need to grind the outside of then tube where the thread was to keep the diameter down so that when the switch is plugged in it is pretty much hidden. Much better than the nail and hole mod! P.S. One thing that you can't really see in the pics, the female part of the jack sit in nice a flush (it looks like they sit out in the pic), so should be hidden when I paint (when i get there) Cheers Bryn

Thanks Tino, I sort of thought to myself, hey I could cut the end off of that.. and presto..

Bolt, extractor and plunger - Update 1 Okay so I wanted to see how the bolt would look painted, see below. Not too worried about painting it now as I will just mask it off when I spray paint the barrel later. I also painted the end of the bolt where the spring cup is. As you can see in pics below, for the spring cup I used a marker and I cut the end off of the marker to make it look more like a real spring cup. Here is a shot of the marker in the back of the PVC pipe before cutting painting.. Oh if you are wondering what I used for the angled stripe for the bolt, I used plastic collar stays from my work shirts.. Nice and thin and easy to work with.. Okay that’s about it for now, oh one last thing the metal coat paint I used shows up all your bad sanding and glue, so it there was a little more work tidying up than I expected. Cheers Bryn

Very cool, the list of stuff to add to my ultimate build is just getting better and longer!! Great work Brian.

Bolt, extractor and plungerHi there, A bit of an update to my last post, where I posted pictures of the extractor & plunger bits of the bolt (I think that’s what they are called). Anyway, I wasn’t happy with the milliput piece I made, the round pin just didn’t look right. So I hooked it out and replaced it with a tube of plastic (yellow) the same as the ones I used in my resistors on my power cylinders. Decided to add serial numbers on the bolt (T-Jay Mod), well was planning to was just getting up the nerve. So I also dremeled out the top of the bolt and filled in with milliput and pressed in the numbers (copied of T-Jays new pipe build). This was tricky as I tried green stuff first, it was way to sticky. Ended up putting in milliput and wetting my fingers to smooth it in, pressed the numbers in and gave it a light sand when it was dry. Pretty happy with the result, the sanding helped heaps as the number punches I used pushed the milliput out a bit. Will update after I paint. Have the same coloured paint that T-Jay used on the bolt on his latest pipe build .

Thanks for all the positive comments and encouragement chaps. I just need to keep the motivation and regular posts up !

OMG.. what a build... I am not worthy.. Absolutely fantastic stuff Tino!!