welshchris77

Tony is right, I used electrical outlet screws which are v slotted but not flat (domed head) so I filled the heads flat, problem solved No.1 screw was the first ones I used, the second (no.2) have a deeper slot so they were the ones I filled down to make the new (no.3) screws. I already had them so thought I would make use of them!

Looking good!

Hey Chris, check out my post on Countersinking snaps, it may help you http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/36142-countersinking-snaps/

Excellent result Chris, Well done

Thanks Charles

Thanks Joseph, Your hand guards are great by the way, thanks for that

Thanks Charles

Thanks Michael

Ah right, thanks for clearing that up

I am not sure I have done my approval right as I see a number at the end of peoples 'request heading'. Did I take a wrong turn perhaps?

Thanks Guys

Name = Chris Lewis 501st TK ID = 11677 FISD forum name = welshchris77 Garrison = Ireland Garrison 501st Legion Member Link = http://www.501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=20978&costumeID=124 Armor Maker= Anovos Helmet Maker= Anovos E-11 Blaster= Doopy Doos Height= 6'.1" Weight= 176 pounds Canvas belt= the_tatooine_trader Hand Plates= Joseph Neck Seal= Anovos Holster= Anovos Required photos: front Back Left Right Ab Helmet Blaster Drop box back Neck seal Hand Plates Forearm wrist Shoulder detail Cod/Butt attachment Inner strapping Thigh Pack Sniper knee Right ab kidney attachment TD Bucket off Action pose Thanks for your consideration. Additional:- A few Changes I have made to the Lid:- Eye return edges adjusted and lens colour shown Frown repainted Ear screw changed for v slotted 6.5mm machine screw. Additional Aditional After looking at other v slot screws I realized that mine still weren't right so I have changed them again. The first screw (no.1) were v slotted but slightly domed, the second (no.2) had a deeper slot so I was able to file the head flat (no.3) and use these instead! Also I removed the lower ear screws, which are partially hidden under the bottom rubber trim and drill new holes further up and replace these screws for a more accurate look. After a suggestion by a fellow trooper I have tightened up the right side Ok I have made an addition revision, (The last hopefully) The gap between the holster (50mm instead of 20mm) was really bugging me I didn't want to spend more money on 'another belt'!!, I just assumed that the gap was right on the anovos belt!, beware anyone copying the hole positions onto a new belt!!!, Anyway I thought of a fix, This may seem drastic but I cut my belt at the back and sowed it back together with an overlap to shorten it by 30mm, had to drill out one of the rivet I added but it came off without a problem unlike the the original anovos ones with the epoxy from hell, also my rivet cap came off easily as I had stuck it on with E6000. The fix it not noticeable from the outside and it is just as strong as it was before. Hopefully it will pass! Sorry about all the additions by the way

Your senses serve you well Andrew! Just need to find time to get some more pics done and I will be ready for submission

Please enable me for TK11677 for 501st Status Kind regards Chris Lewis http://www.501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=20978&costumeID=124

Thanks Justin, just take your time and you will achieve your goal

Thanks Kalani, Yeah I see what you mean about the left thigh, I think it partly to do with my leg shape and the way I'm standing also but will pack up the one side with foam if needed. The hand guards are Joseph's white latex ones so they are a little 'off white' in colour, can paint them though if needed if I find the right paint. I will shot for centurion eventually, just working my way up the ranks

Pics done and submitted to my local garrison for basic approval Front Back Right side Left side Right side arms up Left side arms up Right side detail Left side detail Action shoot Bucket off

I used superglue (CA glue) to attach my latex hand guards (Josephs) to black rubber dish washing gloves (same as chemical gloves) and they are never coming off!

Thanks Justin, hopefully will have some time to do some pics for my local garrison today to get the ball rolling on the approval process

Thanks Andrew, good to know

Yeah was thinking about adding foam alright! would be easier to try this first good point Kalani

Made the adjustment to the thighs, hopefully this will be enough to 'balance out' the gaps. What I have noticed though is that because the thighs are sitting lower they are a lot looser on my legs, I could split the backs and rejoin them to make them more fitted, then again maybe I won't bother and see what they are like over time when I start trooping!

Thanks Kalani, its a shame they don't make things to last anymore, designed obsolescence is unsustainable, this thing is nearly 100 years old and if maintained will definitely last another 100 years. Im not sure how it would cope with really thick leather like on a belt, possibly!, thinner leather though it will plow through like butter! If you go with the tandy line 24 snaps then just bear in mind that the posts are a little long, as with lots of new jobs you often get good at something near the end as I discovered, I found that for the male snaps they often went slightly off centre when setting them due to the long post, but, if you don't mind tedium, and use a dremel cutoff wheel to take a few millimeters off the end of the post, they centre every time, I found there was no need with the female snaps. If you do this though hold the snap with a pair of heavy pliers against a scrap of timber and of course wear goggles, 70% of the time the hot piece that flew off hit my goggles! Also I used a small electrical 'side cutters/snips' to score a series of lines around the posts of both male and female snaps, after pushing the pieces together (or you won't get them together), before setting which also helps the snap centre when being set, if that makes sense! Additionally If your using nylon webbing and elastic for the straps and plan on using a sewing machine to sew the nylon to the elastic then you need to do this before setting the snaps through the two or the snaps won't pass under the sewing machine's foot. (the snap will be too close to the sew line!) unless your hand stitching!, which I wouldn't advise as it will take forever! I sowed over every line 3/4 times by the way for strength and so I don't need to go back to them, ever!

I was thinking about maybe reinforcing my anovos helmet using a fiberglass car body repair kit as plastidip is just too expensive to get shipped to Ireland, has anyone gone down this road before and how did it work out?

You could probably still clean it off next time you fire it up, may as well keep it even its a cheap one, you may need it again sometime. If you can put stormtrooper armor together you will be able to solder no problem, its a lot easier than it looks