nmcguff

I have completed more parts: Rear Cap, Ring Holder and insert. Magwell, Catch, Ejector, Magazine Release Button Charging Handle Flash Hider Bayonet Lug and mounting pin Front and Rear Barrel Support Rings I will add photos later.

See this topic for the files i have completed: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31703-e-11-blaster-3d-printed-parts/

Looks like someone cut off the mounting legs. I have designed a 3d printable full scale version of the M38 scope I used an actual M38A2 scope for the measurements. You could find someone with a 3d printer and print out the legs and glue them to your scope. See link for more info: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31703-e-11-blaster-3d-printed-parts. If you don't have access to a 3d printer, Staples or Shapeways will print them for a fee and mail them to you.

There are 2 tiny screws that hold the retaining ring in. They are around the outer perimeter of the scope.

This thread will be used for documenting my progress on drawing and printing 3D parts for E-11 Blasters. I will post photos and links to download the .stl files. I own a Printrbot Simple 1401 3D printer. I am printing the parts and including photos of them. 3D Printer printing scope body. (Turn head 90 degrees to the right to see photo.) I own a demilled Sterling L2A3 and M38A2 scope which I am using to draw the parts in Solidworks. I am trying to make them as dimensionally correct as possible. I am creating Scale (1.5" OD Pipe) and 1.25" PVC pipe versions where needed. Parts finished: Nose, M38 Scope, Rear Sight, Rear Cap Locking Clip and Folding Stock Mounting. Real M38A2 and 3D printed scope. The scope is hollow and you an see thru it. The scopes are the same size. This photo makes the 3D printed one look smaller. The scope is in 5 parts and has alignment pins to help in gluing them together. Scale 3D printed Nose, Real Sterling Nose, 3D printed nose scaled for 1.25" PVC pipe. Rear Sight Rear cap locking clip and folding stock pivot/mounting. The locking clip is in 2 pieces and functional. I will add more photos and links to the 3D files when I complete them. Link to .stl files: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:868160 Enjoy.

I have a real Sterling L2A3 SMG i purchased 2 years ago (http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/24492-new-e-11-in-process-from-sterling-smg/). I have started making 3D files from the parts I have. I am using Solidworks 2005. I will share the .STL files when I get them finished. These can be used with any 3D printer. I have a Printrbot 1401 3D printer i am using to print the parts. I will post photos of the parts as they are printed. I started with the front nozzle. I have it scaled 1:1 for a 1.5" OD pipe and scaled up 10% to fit US PVC 1.25" ID pipe which is 1.660" OD. I am working on a M38 scope 3D model. I have a real M38A2 scope I am using to get the dimensions. I will start a new thread for the parts as I get them completed.

Aaron, you can weld a steel strip in the area where you install the bolt that would prevent the fully automatic bolt to fit. You would have to machine a slot in the bolt for it to fit along with removing the firing pin and welding the hole. I have one of the APEX parts kits and want to make a display blaster out of it.

White grease pencil works along with the white crayon.

Yes. I plan on following the rules to make it where it can not be functional. It will also have electronics with lights and sound.

Great looking blaster. A real sterling is made of steel. You would only see brass on the scope. The metal parts of the gun would not have brass showing under the paint. I have a real sterling and the paint on mine looks like yours except for the brass looking weathered areas. It does not have the heavy texture that has been seen on other sterlings. The only area where my paint looks heavy is on top of area where the mag clip attaches to the gun. I think this is from the heat of the torch used to cut it up into parts. I would not worry about the weathering too much unless you are going for the "hero" look. There were numerous screen used blasters with a variety or scopes, power cylinders (some had them and some did not), some did not have wires from the counter to the power cylinders, and some did not have the Hengstler counters. The nice thing about this hobby is you can make your weapon look the way you want it. I have a M47 scope which is similar but not exactly like the M38. It has a flat area in the middle where a light was attached to iluminate the reticle inside the scope for night use. I am going to leave mine like it is and not alter it to be tapered like the M38. I do not want to mess up a 70 year old piece of WW2 history.

I have a real sterling. The entire grip/handle is shiny, Not just the grip area.

Time to start a new E-11 Blaster with lights and sound. I got these goodies last week. Real Sterling L2A3 SMG and M47A2 scope.

Most people start with 1.25" ID PVC SCH-40 white plumbing pipe or 1.25" PVC grey electrical conduit. The outer diameter of both is 1.66". The pipe is about a little over 18" long.

I just noticed the scope rails on the far left and the center appear to be not painted.

Here is my version of the electronics for a blaster. It consists of an arduino uno board, 8 5mm RGB superbright LEDs, 3 74HC595 shift registers and a WTV020-SD-16P sound card. I am using a similar design to skyone and kupertrooper. I am building blasters for my son and nephew without the lights and sound. I plan on building one for myself that has all the lights and sound. I am scratch building the blasters out of PVC pipe and other plumbing parts. I will attach photos of the blasters later. The sound files are from skyone. The colors are supposed to be red (regular blast), blue (stun), green, purple, and orange. There is a fire (trigger) button and select button. I have not attempted to connect the electronics to a blaster. The LEDs are setup to have the one in the end of the barrel illuminated during the entire sound with the others mounted to the side of the inner barrel to simulate the blast going down the barrel. Link to the arduino forum with code: http://arduino.cc/fo...html#msg1132728

I am considering on making one for myself. I have the software file for the Arduino. Can you post the sound files in a ZIP file? Thanks.

Thanks for all the hard work. I am trying to make a couple of E-11 blasters for my son and nephew. I live in the USA and the closest size to 38 mm or 40 mm pipe we have is 1.25 inch ID PVC pipe. The OD is 1.66 inches or 42.16 mm. Can a set of pipe templates be drawn for the 42.16 mm pipe? The next size smaller we have is 1.0 inch ID pipe which is 1.35 inches OD or 34.3 mm. Here is a link to a reference chart for USA PVC pipe dimensions http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pvc-cpvc-pipes-dimensions-d_795.html .