candymanq

Mike (Highway) Culp is the fastest at assembling armor. You give him a day with your kit, he'll have it done or close to it. He has helped myself and countless others get into armor. He's the reason our garrison has so much white armor.

Thanks guys! Long time coming but needed the extra push or incentive. I got that when seeing so many awesome troops at the LA commercial shoot. I got home and hurried to join the ranks. Thank you Mike Culp for all the help. I wish all suits accepted would have your seal of approval. I will fix those other things and see you in a few when I submit for centurion.

this was at Phoenix comic con, so you can see me in a normal setting... it looks better i think....

Ouch... Just realized this whole time the helmet was trooperbay not troopermaster

I was told by a fellow EIB member that that was the correct position for belt. I am 5'11" pushing 6 ft. I have very thin biceps so any kind of elastic to pull the lower arm up would just pull upper even further down, padding or no. The shoulders are just attached with one snap each. So the shoulder just pivots. I am thinking of having a two way snapping system so they stay centered. There is no padding in the helmet, whatsoever. I have a long neck... And underarmor I can simply put the neck seal outside the underarmor, covering it up. I will try and tweak a few things next week I guess. Still wonder what kind of helmet that is though....

I didnt pay a ton of money... I guess it shows then. I am still confused as to what kind of helmet this is... What do I still need to do to get EIB?

Oh, and on a side note, the inside of the helmet said Ctm props on it...

I don't know exactly what kind of armor it is I guess then, I leave that to the experts. The helmet I was told was a TM. It came with a decal and a piece of paper with troopermaster written on it so IDK... The biceps have an elastic band holding them in place, but every time I move my arms to take off my helmet they go back up. The ab and but parts are 2 parts each, hidden by belt, if I need pics of that I can get those. What exactly is wrong with back strapping? I have a buddy who helped me make mine and his is same way and has EIB status. What kind of detail shots do I need still? Thanks!

A couple things I want to mention, I have since fixed the det since it was upside down in the closeup pic, painted the side rivets, inner drop boxes added....

Armor: AP I think Helmet: Troopermaster Blaster: Modded doopy doos hasbro (more accurate doopy doos kit in progress) Height: 5' 11" TK boots Rubber and ABS handplates 2 9v fans, memorex wireless, icomm

TK 9729 Need access so I can request EIB status. Currently cannot... http://www.501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=12731&costumeID=124

Got my ap armor done and have run into problems. Since my ap is smaller than the fx, my aker doesn't seem to want to work very well, and if it does work I get a ton of feedback. So what should the setup look like for an ap armor kit? I don't want to have the amp visible and I don't want feedback. I am trying to use the memorex wireless system with it. I've tried the front and back of the armor and there isn't much room. How does the icomm setup look like for ap tks with the same thing as me? Help!

Makes sense about the sniper knee plate, might do that. The ammo knee/thigh isnt too big a deal I think. For now I might just leave that alone. When I attached that I wanted it to look symetrical on both sides, meeting up with the top of the raised edges like on pic number 6. The inside thigh looks the same as the outside in that regard. I know the whole thing might need raised up so it sits more comfortably, and by that I mean the upper and lower torso. I did bend in the lower butt plate to be more curved into the cod piece. It was more flat before, therefore pulling the whole torso down a bit. I was thinking of moving the inside snaps on the chest down, therefore allowing me to slide the chest up a bit. I am 5'11 so I am a tall guy. My tube stripes are the blue recomended, they just look darker in the pic.

First off, I am not against advice, constructive advice. Second, I am not used to taking orders. I am not in the military nor do I have any interest in being so. Advice is fine, when it sounds like an order, not so much. Third, I can make changes on my own and fix the problems. Keep in mind I have a life as well. Just got a new job and had training for 3 days. I cant do work, nor should I when I am exhausted. Now, onto the advice given. Thermal det is an easy fix, so is the paint job on the helmet. At one point I was considering getting a new helmet, I still may. What should be mentioned is that the new armor didnt quite match the helmet so I had to paint the helmet. I will most likely have to do the same to any new helmet as well. The chest and back will be a tougher fix... I dont know exactly how to fix that. That is a bit more.... technical. And advice it that regard would be nice. And lastly, the knees. The knee plate really doesnt have much to hold onto. The angle makes it hard to glue to the shin. I wanted to simply rivet the knee into place which would work the best. I know everyone says there shouldnt be a rivet on the sides, but If you notice in the info regarding the knee for centurion it says "Ideally" there should be no visible rivets. It doesnt say absolutely none visible. The ammo knee/thigh is lined up to meet at the top of the raised edges on either side of the thigh. The center box on that is lined up with the strip in the center. It is also not specified as to the straightness of the knee/thigh part. So, now that I've said all I needed to, any other comments?