The5thHorseman

J'ai été loin du web pendant l'été donc j'ai raté tes avancées sur ce tibia, mais c'est franchement super ce que tu as fait ! Tu ne devrais avoir aucun problème à le fermer maintenant ! Sinon quelques conseils au passage: Je te conseille de retirer la "return edge" au niveau de la cheville car à coup sûr elle va te gêner lorsque tu enfileras ton tibia avec tes bottes (en plus d'endommager tes bottes aussi). Tu devras peut-être raccourcir ta cover strip au niveau du genoux parce que dépendant de ta taille elle risque de pas mal te gêner lorsque tu voudras plier la jambe. Mais sinon c'est super ! Bravo

Hi, and first of all good luck for your upcoming journey I'd recommand you to work side by side. Do the front first, as i found gluing the cover strips on the first side easier & then close the piece by gluing the back. What i did during my build was to prepare both cover strips of one side, then i glued the inner first, waited for 12hours, quickly withdrew the magnets/clamps added the front cover strip, set the magnets/clamps back in place and let it dry for 24h. 1) You aren't force to use rivets here. You can use poppers if you want to be able to detach the ABS belt from the canvas belt. 2) the Ammo knee belt is attached to the bottom of the right thigh, but indeed you need rivets here. In this location you'll need 2 CAP rivets with a 7mm head. 3) In fact there's usually 2 rivets by side, hence that's make 4 for the helmet. 4) You may also want rivets to fasten the holster to the canvas belt, & the inner drop boxes to their respective elastic. You'll also need 7 split rivets with 8mm head for the kidney & ab left side and the crotch. And I'd strongly recommand backing every rivets with a washer. I personnaly used the grey you use for the helmet: Humbrol n°5 Admiral Grey Gloss I don't know for the knit vs braided however I hope i've helped you.

Ideed, i do have some experience in miniatures painting, even if i don't paint that much anymore as i'm always disappointed by my painting skill now. Some links if you're interested in http://www.coolminiornot.com/pics/pics16/img522847c0a0930.jpg http://www.coolminiornot.com/pics/pics16/img5228484f79def.jpg http://www.coolminiornot.com/pics/pics16/img5228486f4c3fb.jpg http://www.coolminiornot.com/pics/pics13/img49fd9f3d63d6c.jpg

Don't worry, i've fitted my thighs and shins in underwear , i was wearing this jeans only because it's the only black pants i found . In fact my legs were really tight during these fullsuited sessions because of it.

Hi back everyone, I’ve been away from the worldwide web for two months during my vacation, but it gave me the opportunity to finish my blaster (and also my armor btw). Most of the work was already done but I still needed to paint it and finish some extra-stuff. First I received my power cylinders and had to clean and glue them. This is how they looked like once cleaned up: I originally planned to stop here but then I told myself “you’ll certainly build only one e-11, so do your best man!â€. Therefore, I looked for some gear in my attic and taking these ones as reference (http://i72.servimg.com/u/f72/12/31/04/96/power-10.jpg) I’ve added 3 central fuses & a winged piece in the middle and two nuts, a wire and a resistor at the back. I’ve also cleaned up the glue residue on the left side (noticeable on the pic above). 7.31.2013: “Painting timeâ€: And my six resin t-tracks ^^ In addition to the spray cans, foresee a stencil because when you paint the blaster fully assembled, there're many places that the paint in spray won’t reach. I sum-up how i've painted it: The main gun is flat black I’ve painted the t-tracks in flat black too Inner barrel is flat black Grip is gloss black Slight weathering on the exposed areas (front of the gun, magazine area, rear cap, folding stock wings) Brass weathering on the scope No weathering on the counter and t-tracks Inner bolt, spring, and some parts near the trigger area are boltgun metal. That thing is really difficult to picture but anyway, here they are: The glossy grip & some boltgun parts: Here you can see painted the bit of Apple headset I glued to mimic the rear cap latch. I’m quite happy with the result, the illusion looks pretty good. I’ve also added the wires. I remembered having read somewhere that one was blue and the other red but I wasn’t sure about it so I went with black wires (Edit: in fact, there's no blaster with wires in the film, only the promo blasters had ones). D-ring : And here you can see the trompe l’oeil I’ve done to make the lenses look like a real scope. The counter plexiglass: Right now I’m glad it’s over, but I’m sure I’ll miss it soon enough ! Cheers !

Hi back everyone, I’ve been away from the worldwide web for two months during my vacation, but it gave me the opportunity to finish my armor (and also my blaster btw). Most of the work was already done but a lot of final adjustments were required and it was the perfect time to do them. 07.9.2013: After so many days working on this armor, the time for the first full suited set of pictures had come: In the beginning I was really over satisfied about the result! I found the armor looking really great! However… once the excitation of the first days faded out, i started to notice the issues and after a little time I couldn’t see something else. - The first and most obvious one was both the biceps waaaay too wide for me! I spent a lot of time fitting the thighs, forearms & torso to me but the fact I didn’t put as much efforts when i assembled my biceps rapidly became something i can't stand. In that case there aren’t many solutions: So i ripped them apart & trimmed them again. Taking that decision was harder than I expected because when you think all is finished it’s really difficult to start a piece all over again, but not once I’ve regretted it. Comparison pics, former on the left against new one on the right: - The second issue was both the Shoulder bells waaay too opened. For this I tried gluing new male poppers inside the shoulder bells backward of the previous one. It has worked for the right one but the left hadn’t told his final word as we’ll see later. - My third issue was that the Right shin kept twisting outward. The solution to this problem has already been posted here so I just applied it: In addition to the popper I’ve also added padding on both shins as it makes them quite comfortable. - 4th: Where the hell is the holster? At the time I hadn’t it yet but it’s now affixed. I used poppers to affix it making it easily removable. As recommended I’ve used pop rivets to secure the male half so the outside looks accurate. - 5th: I also trimmed the back of my thighs cover strips: - 6th: That blaster needs paint!! : Click me if you want to see more 08.14.2013: After all these adjustments, it was time for a new set of full-suited pictures! I improved the background too btw: Still, there were improvements possible. - The easy work first: I’ve brought the left poppers on the back plate up/forward so the back plate would sit a bit lower on the left (I’ve run out of poppers so I couldn’t make a new shoulder bridge). At that time I had already given my magnets to my bro for his build so I had to secure it while drying with what I found - Now the left shoulder bell… It gave me a lot of headaches. It doesn’t appear on the pictures but I was keeping replacing it all the time as the left bicep and the shoulder bell kept wanting to fit into each other notch. Yet if they fit like that, the left shoulder bell is brought backward and leaves too much black. I was about to give up on the problem, when after a brainstorming I came out with an idea and i ended up building this: Don’t worry, it doesn’t bite ^^ With a view from the top you might already understand the purpose of this piece: Set inside the shoulder bell: The idea behind this piece is to create a new notch for the bicep to fit in but shifted backward regarding the shoulder bell's one, and then preventing them to fit into each other natural notch. And this way I hoped it should keep the shoulder bell closed in the front. After some additional cuts and sanding: - You can see the bicep fitted into his new notch, backward of the shoulder bell’s natural one. Here you can see the shifting created by the piece I’ve added and which prevents the shoulder bell to twist backward: BTW on this pic you can clearly see that the fact AP has two identical shoulder bells is a problem as their shape is clearly designed to fit one precise shoulder, in this case the right shoulder. This following picture has been taken after 10min of moving around and without repositioning the shoulder bell before the pic: It’s really not bad at all and I don’t think I could obtain something better without changing for a proper left shoulder bell so I’m happy with it. The only problem with this mod is that you sometimes creak when you move the left arm (since i've glued some foam over it to prevent that issue). Right now the only thing left I have to do is waiting for my brother to build his ! (And also buy a proper undersuit & maybe raise my belt up one of these days! -done since-) Cheers !! P.S: Gosh I’ve been blister packaged , ready to be sold in shops as a deluxe action-figure!!

Lol i hadn't understand that To remove stickers why not just using tweezers ? Once you've managed to stitch out a corner, the rest should be easy i think.

White spirit is what you're looking for if you will use the Humbrol. You can remove paint bleeds by just scratching them with a toothpick for example, and then wipe them out with a soft tissu with White Spirit on it without damaging the bucket at all. I guess you can also use therebentine If you have some

I remember my first test, it was so... enjoyable! And it gives you so much envy to continue further! And you're are looking very well, you were just keeping your ab plate upside down ^^

Little update to say that lenses are set, mic tips & chin strap too, and lid is now padded. And first heavy test successfully passed out ^^ For those who say you should see the life through rose-coloured glasses i answer, green's better Also, pic of the sniper knee plate Ammo knee belt rivets: And the completed "To-do list"

Congrats to you ! You're the first FunkyTrigger Centurion Awarded !! Few things i noticed to improve you're already awesome armor though: - paint the thermal detonator screws black - change the drop boxes straps from webbing to elastic (i think they're webbing, sorry if not) - and also i would reverse the neck trim junction from back to front where no one will be able to see it (only personal taste here)

I'd say correct ! You can add the top of the butt plate too. But you can trim these a little if you need to gain some flexibility, especially with the kidney plate to help preventing the sides to pop out. Preserve the return edges at the top of the thighs (You can trim the inner if you need it though). You do not want any return edge on the inner top of the forearms (it avoid pinches), and also, don't leave too much at the shoulder bells bottom for the biceps to fit in. The rest is really all yours to decide

Very nice overall look !! You'll look perfect very soon Few remarks i can do: - Shorten the elastic straps between forearms and biceps. If you don't have one i strongly encourage you to add one ! (look at Geaux Saint's build thread, he explained very well how to do it). The elastic strap reduces the elbow gap when your arms are at side , but when you bend the arm it stretches and the forearm slides down to allow you to bend the arm. - Shorten both back/kidney straps - I don't see any male pression on the top abdominal right corner - Paint the side rivets in white. And the knee rivets too if they aren't. - Add the two little elastics to maintain the shoulder bridges on the back And that's all ! Most it are really easy fix and you will be ready to Centurion i think

I think these would the last pics before a while but i wanted to show how this bad boy looks like when all is affixed together I haven't done much more since the last post but it's only because there's almost nothing more to do ! First, I rounded the edges of the plexiglass i made for my hengstler: and then made my counter numbers. Thanks Nicky for the basis to work with, helps me a lot ! And now the overviews: - Right side (sorry this one is blurred...): - Back left : - Back right: - Left side: - Bottom view: - Front left: - Front: - Front right: - Top view: But I still need to clean and fix my power cylinders though. And of course paint it !!

You can only obtain basic approval with them, for further grades you will need to upgrade them. A pic to show the differences: - basic AP aerator on the left and more accurate one on the right:

Major step finished today ! The lid is finally fully handpainted And it was muuuuch more difficult and longer than i expected. Now I really respect the guys who painted the movie's helmets, these guys are the real heroes ^^ ! (I've just realized i still need to varnish the screws ) BTW what do you use to glue thing inside the lid ? E6000? Hot-glue? or something else?

That's cool, waiting for those full suited pics Also, when gluing the side buttons over the belt rivets try to not center them as you put your rivets. In fact there are almost edge to edge with the end of the ammo belt. I quote Troopermaster:

Alright thanks ! Always useful stuff to know.

My english must be to poor, i can't understand the difference from what i drew They were sewn at only one place ?

Ok, i've been working on the sniper knee plate and here's where i am right now. What do you think about it ? Is that good enough ? I must say this is very hard for me to fit this thing as i don't have any heatgun so i'm heating it with my toaster and this is not simple ! Also the left wing gives me some troubles as i cannot bring the top in contact with the shin without exercising major pressure upon it and i fear it would be inconvenient when i'll have to glue it. is that serious or am i just too anxious ?

I'm not a pro about original strapping but i think you're right: Here's a little diagram i made as it's easier for me And I guess remembering that originally the elastics were glued together rather than sewn but i'm not sure about it. Edit: according to Echo sewing is more accurate, my bad ! Edit 2: deleted the diagram as it appears to be incorrect

IMHO any dull black would do the job. You don't want it to shine for the inside, it would be unpleasant i think ! And regarding the painting itself, i think the major risk would be to spray from to close if you paint the helmet once assembled. Anyway as it will be black, with your head inside and with no light enlightening it I think you really don't care if it's not the best painting job in the world. And of course there's always the risk to put paint on the outside but with a good masking it wouldn't be such a problem. And it's nice for the Nordic Garrison to have a new RS among them, the armor is one of the best (even if i don't like the lid :s). Good luck for your build !

Oh man ! You haven't stolen your nickname for sure !! I'll try my best to clamp the hell of that sniper knee plate

You don't really care about the top return edges on the biceps, no one will ever seen it, just leave a bit where the indentation is. And about the left forearm, the problem should solve by itself when you'll start gluing the cover strips. Personnaly I first glued the front inner and outer cover strips and then the forearm shape issue had been solved by gluing the back cover strips which should line the two halves together, no matter how they don't match. Anyway you will see that the AP forearms are really difficult to glue!