The5thHorseman

Just be careful, the ROTJ CRL is kind of messed-up regarding what was actually done on the film. And i agree, the shoulder bridges are very unlikely free floating in the back so they should be secured in a way or another.

1. It seems correct to me. 2. Keep it like that until your strapping is done and then take a decision if you fear they could become too short. However, i would trim the ABS that flares up on the right/hand side and then even the opposite side. 3. The shoulder bridges are riveted on the chest plate and yes they'll need some heat bending. Boiling water is hot enough for this job normally. On the back, i really don't know how they're secured. You can see duct tape on a ref pic but i doubt this is the way they did it, maybe velcro or free floating? However, i'm pretty sure ROTJ armors have no elastic shoulder bridges and that the chest/back plates rests on the wearer's shoulders directly via the ABS bridges. One way would be to use suspenders for the Ab section and the Kydney/butt plate, to prevent to put too much weight on the ABS bridges. You can see it done on the ESb MkII armor which is close to the ROTJ. 4. I really don't know for that but i'd drop few glue dots here an there just to be sure.

Congrats! You sure have done more than your part of the job on that armor to bring it up to the EIB/Cent standards.

Long time coming, but most excellent update as always.

The pipe's OD should be 38,1mm, not 40mm.

He sells them assembled, not in kit form.

Basically, just a screwdriver to spread the legs of the rivet, and then a hammer to flaten them. Edit: Maybe this wil help you

Looks great . The size of the ab buttons seems a tad big but aside from that it's mostly perfect. One easy thing you could do with your thermal detonator would be to cut the end of your clips just above the screw holes, and then bring down the main panel: Terrible i'd say!

Looking forward to see the update . Don't worry, this ain't a race!

Sounds awesome!! You're making such a dedicated work with your kit Mike .

Edit: Just realized i've been wrong all the way. You indeed have the newer version of TM's thermal detonator. That version replicates the sharp pulls the original molds were doing before they deteriorate.

I agree with you, the AP detonator is kinda poor. Good call changing it. And yet, i believe that's an old version of his Thermal Detonator!

Don't worry Chris, i sent him the same informations i've sent you, and the this is sorted out

A = Inner right / B = Outer right E = Outer left / F = Inner left Shins seem to be paired right, hard to tell though. Biceps and forearms are identical for both arms. No left and right.

There should be very minimal return edge on the handguards: And for the drop boxes, just lay it flat on a piece of sandpaper (100-150 grit) and start making circles until it evens nicely .

Just the unpainted heads of the original brackets Ben used to strap his armor.

Very solid work so far! Keep on like that.

In case you still need a reference pic for the underside of the mag housing, i have this one: And what i did back when i was building my e-11: Hope this helps.

Love the ceremonial one! There's such a Daft Punk's feel to it .

The thumbprint should be on the left biceps, so you better remove it on the right one . I vote to remove it for the right biceps.

Blaah, too freaking perfect... That's not fun!

To reduce the forearm size, your best option is to cut the excess from the back joint. The originals didn't have any raised ridge at the back to allow such "tailoring". However if you decide to go that way, be aware that they'll become a lot more harder to close and glue together. Be sure to have strong magnets and some boiling water for shape adjustments.

The corners were sometimes cut, and sometimes left square. I guess it's just another good example of the randomness involved during the build of the original armors. Here's a good example of both ways on one pic (just forget the rivets):

I'm glad you decided to drill those rivets and reposition the faceplate. As Gaz said, there shouldn't be any gap between the brow and the face (or at least not that much).